I bought the Diesel Site kit, but I wanted to put a bypass oil filter where the coolant filter is designed to go. So after looking and poking around for a while, and searching the web for other custom installs, I went for it, and here are the details.
Click on the little pics for big pics.

The filter is mounted on the passenger side, right behind the tire splash guard and mud flap. It is up high enough that nothing from the tire can be picked up and hit the filter, hoses or housing. The filter housing is attached to the body with 2 of the biggest self tapping sheet metal screws I could find. I used some silicone sealer on the screws to prevent any future rust problems. When I try to wiggle the filter housing, the sheet metal on the body deflects a little bit, so I know it is on there good.


This lousy picture is looking up from the filter into the inner fender/splash guard area where I ran the hoses. You can see I used 3/8" ball valves to keep the filter changes from getting too messy. If you look real close at the top, you will also see that I sleeved the 3/8" coolant line with some pieces of 1/2" coolant line to limit abrasion damage.


This is where the coolant lines come into the engine compartment. It's right behind the blower fan housing. There isn't anything sharp in that corner, and it keeps the hoses away from the exhaust. Coolant bypass hoses shown with red dashes.


A little bit wider shot. You will also notice that I zip tied the hoses in many locations to keep them from moving around and wearing through.

 

This is looking at the one heater hose that is cut and tapped into for the coolant filter. The "T" and the clamps are hidden behind the CAC tube on the left. This is the view from the drivers side, looking toward the passenger side cylinder head. This stock heater hose had two abrasion spots on it. One is where this hose and the small wire loom cross at the red arrow. The other one is where I cut the hose and installed the "T". Go out to your truck now and zip tie this hose up a bit to keep it from rubbing through at the wrong moment (remember Murphy!). Sorry, there is just no good way to get a good pic of this "T" without removing the CAC tube, and my CAC tubes are on good. Besides, this part of the install is the same on all 6.0s.


The other hose goes from the blower motor housing, against the pass side fender, around the battery, and up the fan shroud. Red arrow shows spot where 1/2" heater hose is sleeved on to prevent abrasion.


Up and over the fan shroud, to degas bottle hose that is at the radiator.
Red arrow points to spot where field mice were stripping off pieces of the insulation that are on the CAC tube. Get them buggers!


Questions? Comments? Spare change?

 

Nice install, I thought about ding the same thing but never got around to it. Now I'll have to try it.

 

So I'm going to ask it... Do you have anyway of verifying that those valves won't 'magically' get shut..

Granted it 'should' never happen, but murphy's law is going to get ya..

 

Wouldn't really make any difference to the cooling system if one accidently did get shut. It just wouldn't filter, which isn't a requirement anyway.

 

it is a bypass system, so if the valves get shut, or the filter gets clogged, you are simply not filtering your coolant and are back to the way the factory set your cooling system up new.

Here is a link http://www.dieselsite.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=324