throwing parts at it will solve nothing except make the parts store owner richer.

i will repeat the question
do you get a clear self test on PCM when the key is first turned on
CEL should light for 5>10 seconds and then go out indicating the engine management computer passed it's POST power on self test.
if the CEL doesn't come on or stays light, there is a problem
bulb out or computer smoked
most rigs will still run with major failure of computer or sensor in limp home mode but poorly with little power and limited gears.

not being able to run the code test is an indication of a major PCM/ECU failure.

start by running the K.ey O.n E.ngine O.ff test with cold engine
http://fordfuelinjection.com/?p=13

 

Does definately sound like a fuel system/mixture problem.
If the ECT is sending a cold engine signal, the engine will be running rich (possibly black smoke out the tailpipe & wooly non responsive throttle with strong smelling exhaust fumes). It will make the engine hard to start when warm,....... however you should get a code for this. The TPS would also give an incorrect reading which could affect mixture at idle although the O2 sensor will try to correct for this since you should be in closed loop (but not if the ECT is faulty). You could also have something like a leaky or sticking injector.
What's fuel consumption like?
What happens if you hold a white card behind the tailpipe & rev the engine to 3K a few times ? Any BLACK smoke or sooty deposits ?

The ECT is a thermistor with known resistance @ temperarture readings which you can test with a DMM. With needle on the gauge at the R of Normal corresponds to about 200*F, measure the resistance at this temp. At least if correct the PCU is getting the correct signal!

The TPS is basically a variable potentiometer, I believe. If you connect up a analogue MM onto the Ohms range then press the pedal (not sure how the wires are accessed) you should get a steady relationship between the pedal depression & the ohms reading, any jerky incosistencies, means the unit is worn & will give a problem.

Keep us posted,
Aeroman.

 

96_4wdr,

Turned key on engine off, fuel pump hums, 1 click then CEL and battery light stays on

 

does fuel pump quit after after 1>2 seconds? if so indicates PCM fuel pump control section working

does CEL go out with engine running?
if not you either have a stored code or failed PCM

not being able to access the codes indicate
failed PCM/ECU unit
the black computer box in firewall behind the brake booster

key on
check for 12v at pin 1 yellow wire on PCM
12v at pin 37 & 57 red wire

with no stored codes the PCM lights the CEL during POST, completes POST
if all is ok, CEL turns CEL back off.

 

fuel pump quits after 2 sec.
CEL goes out with engine running
Have not checked voltage at pins is it necessary if CEL light goes out?

 

when it stalls after running have someone spray carb cleaner into the intake while cranking. If it runs then it eliminates a spark issue. attatch fuel pump press gauge to schrader valve and leave it connected while engine running and watch when the engine splutters. Snap throttle open and shut fuel press should drop slightly then recover.If not you may have a weak pump that runs but wont put out enough pressure,

 

Ok, you have to approach this in a systematic way, and the guys are right, pull the vacuum lines and make sure fuel pressure regulator is getting vacuum. Check for signs of fuel in the vacuum line. If you can smell it, then the fuel pressure regulators diaphram is ruptured. Check the fuel pressure at idle and again with the vacuum line disconnected. Next time it does this, try opening the gas cap and equalizing the tank pressure. If it starts right up, then you may have a problem with the evaporative emissions systems.

Another common sensor that can be related is the Engine Coolant Temp sensor. This sensor tells the computer how hot the coolant is, and the computer makes a lot of decisions based upon this signal. Finally, even though you don't have a code for it, the O2 sensor can also cause your symptoms, and I recommend replacing it regardless, since it is a maintenance item. They should be replaced at least every 80,000 miles.

 

Well, so many suggestions, but..... the problem is, that starter crancks warm engine very slowly and starter draw is so hight that starter wires moves one to other..... Our "starter" man looked at y starter and he say that armature is old, and may be when starter is hot insolation is soft and armature may move inside under the magnetic fiels forces and shot.... I know it is a time to replace starter. But this phenomen is rare, when cold engine is cranked with starter, warm - not....

There are to ways - to fix my starter (replace armature, rotor and starter drive = $100 for parts (German Bosch parts are expencive) ore to get new for $200-250 with shipping from the USA... I think $200 is not so big money and I will bue new starter and fix my old with junk parts to have it as spare starter....

 

Problem is I dont have a fuel pressure gauge. It might be cheaper to just replace the part rather than buy a gauge. Then I still have to learn how to use it.

I also need to wait for a "second hand" to spray TB cleaner in the throttle body.

Copper suggested earlier that I check for fuel in the hose.

Sorry, Copper but when I questioned your post I didnt realize fuel in the line was a bad thing.

 

EXUSE me!!! I typed answer in wrong window! :-).....

Moderator! Please delete it!

 

most auto parts stores have loaner diag. tools such as fuel press. gauge.
call ahead to make sure it's in.

 

Heres recap of the history of this problem since I posted back in June on another thread: Need help with codes. Many of you responded to my thread back then.

When all this started back in June with a rough idle I didnt have this stalling issue.

The van ran rough all the time.

I put in plugs, cap, rotor, and took it for a drive. It ran better but started missing between 45-65 mph.

I pulled the codes KOEO and got 111. I had 157 and 212 in continuous memory.

I put in a new pcv. I could not find a formed hose for the top port on the pcv so I wrapped the hose with electrical tape until I could find a hose.

I sprayed TB cleaner in the throttle body, and MAF cleaner on the MAF sensor

It drove worse than before. No power, missing all over. With an arcing wire.

I found my #2 wire was broken at the plug. (212 Code?)

I replaced the taped pcv hose with a straight fueline hose.

I changed the wires and put in a new /remanufactured MAF (157 code?) from Direct Ford Parts and a new fuel filter.

The van idled great and I thought it was cured but when I started to drive on short trips the current symptoms started (hard start when warm and stalling when trying to accelerate after a complete stop).

Tried to pull codes but no codes show.

I changed the air bypass valve with no improvement.

It looks like I have black soot in the condensation coming out of my tail pipe. (I saw it dried up on the garage floor). Probably happenend when I tried to start the engine after I shut it down and tried to restart under hard to start condition.

 

You do not need any help just spray the carb cleaner into the intake for 10 secs or so then go crank it. If it starts then splutters the issue is fuel related. Quick and easy diagnosis to get started on the area to repair.As others are telling you a loaner press gauge can help diagnose the fuel system and regulator. To change the pump you have to drop the tank.

 

if you can get the car started, take the throttle cover off the car, and spray carb cleaner into the intake and rev it yourself by hand.

 

trying to hunt down a fuel pressure tester in my spare time.

My flex pipe needs replacing. Would this cause the the symptoms Im having?