Everyone: I am exploring the 7.3 world to replace my daily driver truck. It looks like an F-250 with a 7.3 will fit my needs.

I have spent most of my time in the '79 and earlier Ford world, I've had my '66 F-100 for nearly 30 years now, but I know nothing about 7.3s, or the Fords they came in. I am seeking advice and what to watch for when buying used.

What years are the best, prior to 2003 (I can't afford much more than about $12K), known issues, known weaknesses to look for in the 7.3 engine, transmission, truck body/drivetrain, etc.

What repairs would I expect to encounter at 100K and 200K miles? For example, front wheel bearing assemblies, or injection pumps. Things like that.

Brand-name loyalty doesn't mean much to a pocket book - but opinions do count when based on experience. Would a 6.9 Cummings in a Dodge be better than a 7.3 in certain year Fords for example?

Thanks for your input!

 

Here is a thread for New 7.3 truck buyers. Take a look around and ask away! And welcome to the 7.3 forum !!

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/5...questions.html

 

Welcome to our world. Any year between 99.5 and early 03' would do you just fine. I would look for the lowest miles and best shape I could afford. I have a friend with 680,000 miles on his 99' and he said he will make 1,000,000 on it.


I have 116,000 miles on mine and running better than ever.

Good luck, you wont regret buying a 7.3. And these guys on here know everything there is to know about the 7.3.

 

I am definitely no expert, but here's what I know:

I have a 2000 I bought used a few years ago. One owner truck, loaded up except it's 2WD. I was told to not get the 1999 year as it was the first year. However, I believe that there have been recalls etc for the 99 to bring it "up to date," so if these have been applied I don't think there are any more (than normal to the rest of us) issues for the 1999. Having said that, there are some design differences between early 99 models and others (like the airbox I think etc) which might cause you small headaches here and there when trying to compare and get advice from owners of other years.

From what I saw, there wasn't really any difference between the 2000 and 2001 years (although there is a doide-in-the-tranny issue in some automatics for 2001 to watch out for, a fellow FTE'r ought to pop in here and clarify me on this).

2002 added power adjustable pedals and nicer looking headlamps. 2003 added turn signal LEDs (and of course the 6.0 option).

I wanted to get a 2002 but as I didn't see a performance difference between the 02 and 2000 I went with the latter to save some $$$.

Some things I have had to deal with. Hopefully some others can chime in and add more detail:
- Turbo housing bolts backing off. Once I read about it (here), got the "updated" bolt kit and replaced them
- Turbo pedestal leak. Again, once I saw it read about it (here, again) I bought the o-rings etc and re-built my pedestal
- CPS problems. Again, read about it here, bought a replacement, keep a spare
- Leaking turbo boots. Long story, but I think this happens because the CV goes into the intake plumbing and the stock boots aren't made to handle all that oil mist. Thus they leak. Replaced boots w/ aftermarket, no more problems.
All of the above were inexpensive (~$250 total maybe).

One more problem. PMS. Powerstroke Modification Syndrome. It will make you want to tweak and upgrade until .....

I will say also, if you plan to tow, invest in a good set of gauges and understand how to use them. That will help you avoid some serious $$$ with the tranny and engine.

Overall I am very pleased with my 7.3, I dropped some coin to buy it ($20k a few years ago, most I have ever spent on a used vehicle, pretty close to what I've ever spent tops for a new) but it has lived up to the reputation. It's a tough beast that will pull my 5er down the road with lots of room for the family. Just wish I could find some magic mpg somewhere...

 

Ditto on everything above. I would read all the threads you can about buying a used truck here. I know someone here put together a checklist that was extremely comprehensive. If I remember right it was a couple of pages long. I sure someone else here will remember where it is a post up a link.

Once you weed out all the obvious trucks in the 'no' catagory and find one that you really like I'd take it to your mechenic or a trusted diesel/truck mechanic. This type of inspection could save you thousands right off the bat and maybe give you some barganin chips. I didn't do this because the truck that I wanted was 160 miles away from my mechanic. Once I got my truck back to the mechanic I had to replace my pads/rotors all around, 5 u jounts, parking brake and other small things. About a month after buying my truck I also had to replace my oilpan which reqires pulling the engine. That job made my wallet cry so be sure you check the oilpan for corrosion very carefully.

There is one last thing that I would do now if I was to buy another used one. Get an oil analysis before signing the papers. A 35 buck oil analysis could save you LOTS of money. If they are reluctant to let you do it then walk away.

If you take your time and put in the effort you will find and awesome truck. Once you have it I give you about 2 weeks before the PMS sets in!!!!!!!!!!

 

There are also PMR (powered metal rods) that are in the 7.3 from the late yr 2000 and beyond. I have an oct 2000 build (2001) and I have the PMR rods. This will limit you on your mods you can do without damaging them.


Dave.

 

Darn it I forgot that one, thanks for bringing it up. I got an analysis from Blackstone before I bought mine, great peace of mind. I will never buy another vehicle again without doing that...

 

What are Powered Metal rods? What role do they play?
I apologize if this seems like a stupid question, but I just cannot conceive the role something like this might play in an engine. Something that runs off the cam perhaps?
My last diesel experiences were an '79 Volkswagen 4-banger (nice revving diesel!) and an '81 Gm 5.7 diesel in a Pontiac Parisienne - ugh.

The oil analysis is an excellent idea.

Thanks!

 

PMRs are the connecting rods used in the engines beginning around 2001. Prior to that they were forged units. The PMRs are good to about 400RWhp while the forged ones take more but exact numbers are unknown. Stock, the 7.3 is rated at about 250-275 HP at the flywheel from the factory. So unless serious mods are in your future, it is not an issue.

 

OK, conn rods as in powdered metal connecting rods.
Makes sense now! Thanks.
I can't count how many times I have fat-fingered words myslef. <grin></grin>