I have a '66 300 6cyl with the original (I think) exhaust manifold part #C6 AE 8430B. I have a chance to get a new NOS manifold
# E7 TE 9430MA and am wondering if they would interchange. I am running the stock intake manifold and carb and want everything to bolt up. My old manifold is heavily rusted and the bolts have siezed, would like a new fresh approach here. Any comments would be helpful!!

 

First the part number you gave is for a part engineered in 1966 so it is probaby the original manifold. Second the 2 piece header styled exhaust manifolds will bolt up. What you do lose is the heat source for the intake. Depending on your climate it may not matter.

 

Not sure on the casting number, except that yes, yours C='60's is most likely orginal. The E='80's. I just bought a NOS for my '79. The PO put a casting from '65 onto what's supposed to be an emission controlled vehicle (CA). I've had to swap the old '65 casting for a newer one. The NOS one that I bought was a single piece manifold MUCH like the one that was on there. I can't remember the casting number, I didn't write it down. Here's what I do know: the early design casting doesn't have the threaded hole for the egr feed pipe & they accept a doughnut that fits between the manifold and exhaust pipe. The next evolution up has the threaded hole on the SIDE for the EGR and still accepts the dougnut (see picture) After that the manifold was altered to have the EGR hole out the bottom with a flange that's machined on the manifold to fit the exhaust pipe. The later design also has a threaded hole for an O2 sensor. I believe these manifolds were re-released before the spit manifold came about - hence the newer casting numbers for an older design. The casting date is the design release date, not the actual time it was poured. - I think. Anyway, my change over went smoothly. Here's what you'll probably need to find : casting like the second one I mentioned, since your truck probably has a dougnut or "gasket" that fits on the exhaust pipe end and into the manifold - you can see them when installed. Make sure the new casting has the kit of goodies that go with it. You'll most likely need the supplied plug to cap the threaded EGR hole. There's also the stuff (in the goody bag) for the built in choke heater - wether you need it or not. Here's the slight problem I ran into - the washers supplied with the new bolts were too large to fit into the machined area between the intake and exhaust on the bottom side. I had to reuse five of the old washers. You may need to use a gasket for the exaust to make up for any warping of the head. I went to a used intake also - so I ended up bolting them together (on flat surface) and haveing them machined (by shop)so that all ports were coplanar, I then took the gasket and set the loosened pair on top of it (on flat surface) and tightened to spec. I did the install (on motor) and loosened the pair to remove any stress and retightened them back up. I hope the extra work will keep them from cracking. Your best thing to do is to do a visual over the part to make sure it will work - be especially careful around the exhaust pipe connection. I've seen some that sounded correct from descriptions but then ended up being for a van. The photo is of the one I mentioned you'll probably want. If you recognize it, she's good to work with. Make sure it's the one you see in the pic though. I'll try to remember to take a look tomorrow at the casting number. Sorry for the novel.

http://images.andale.com/f2/119/108/7178476/1001025145974_Mvc_891f.jpg

 

i have a 68 4.9 with a stock set up.. I have a set of efi split exhaust manifolds id like to swap in, but keep my stock intake for now. Do i need a block off plate or something like that for the intake manifold and where do i get such a thing?


you can see my sweet van in the user gallery....

Josh Andersen
www.joshandersen.com
1968 Ford P-350 Vanette
Close Coupled

 

Looking down on the intake, if there isn't the extra smaller hole for the air injection you're ok. Most of the older sixes have a spacer between the carb and intake - no air injection. I think you'll be ok. The passage under neath is for the heat riser -meaning it may be bad for cold starts without the usual heat source but shouldn't hurt anything. I read a recent post (different site) about caping the heat riser opening and threading in some pipe fittings to send coolant through it. Intresting idea....