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Hi. A few days ago I changed my oil and immediately noticed my oil pressure was low. It normally rides at the "m" and the "a" in "normal." Always has. Always. I put my normal six quarts in.
Now it rides on "N" or below. Performance is fine, temp is fine, but I'm worried. What did I do? I was playing in the engine compartment after the oil change, but I don't think I messed w/ anything. Obviously I did. Could someone give me some insight, please?
I had trouble with my '95 F150 where the wire was loose on the sending unit terminal. Sometimes the oil gauge would go to the left side like it was shut off, and sometimes it would run right around the bottom of the NORMAL range. I put dielectric grease in the boot and it seemed fine, but then did it again. Finally, I squashed the boot so the terminal became oval, jammed it back on and have never had another problem with it.
Same weight 10w-40, pennzoil filter. How would I run a mech. guage in-line? Where is the sending unit? I heard there is a web site for ford oil units around.
Standing on the drivers side fender, the sending unit is low on the engine block toward the back. Seems like it is a bit right of the oil filter. I think the 10w40 should be fine, though the recommendation on later F150s (90s) has been for 5w30 and actually 10w30 is better yet from the standpoint that there are less polymers in it to extend the viscosity over a shorter range. Since these don't lubricate, the less the better. I run 5w30 synthetic blend.
Just one thing on synthetic oil. If you have a high mileage engine (100K plus) stay away from synthetic. The reason is the synthetic oil will clean all the old oil residue out from around your piston rings and valve seals then you will be burning alot of oil and getting lousy performance from your engine. The old residue acts like a sealer in your engine and actually helps engines with high mileage. The synthetic oil is a bad idea. If your engine has low miles you can use the synthetic. I found this out from 2 people, one mechanic, so be carefull everyone. I stay with havoline 10w30 with 155K on my 6 and burn no oil at all. Greg.
1985 F-150, Black with black fiberglass cap. 300 6. Aluminum mag wheels, BF goodrich tires.
[font size="1" color="#FF0000"]LAST EDITED ON 28-Jun-01 AT 03:17 PM (EST)[/font][p] ===============WARNING===============
NEVER USE THE NEWER CHECKVALVE TYPE OIL FILTERS ON FORDS. IT MAKES THE MAINS RATTLE SOMETHING FIERCE. TRYED THEM ON 69'360-MILAGE UNKNOWN, A 78' 300L6-16000 MILES ON A REBUILD,A 94' 300L6
47,000 MILES, AND A 93' 302 WHITH 67,000 MILES. EVERYONE OF THEM
RATTLED LIKE CRAZY UNTILL I CHANGED BACK TO MOTORCRAFT FILTERS.
A FRIEND OF MINE USED ONE ON A 300-6 AND HAD THE SAME PROBLEM.
IF YOU LIKE YOUR ENGINE DON'T USE ONE.
When I was towing 5000lb with my 4.9 on warm days the pressure would sometimes drop below the N, just above the indicator for the bottom of the Normal level. Scared the crap out of me. Now with the Motorcraft it is very constant, and like mentioned above you do not hear the rattle on start up. I have a T connector to run the electric guage and I have a mechanical ready to install, but have not taken the time to do it yet. There is plenty of room down there to put in a T.
Warn your buddies to stop using FRAM brand filters. If you have not checked out this link yet I would.
I recall my motorhome running around N at times and then I thought about the oil filter thing and switched from Fram to Motorcraft and it seems that it has stayed more toward the middle of the gauge since then.
The stock oil pressure gauge in my 89 truck was driving me crazy. I even put in a new sensor but the gauge still read high one day and low the next. Put in a good mechanical gauge and be done with it. My 4.9 was overhauled 2000 miles ago. I put in a melling high volume pump and have 50 psi @ 2000 roms.
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