Head Work
Junior User
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 56
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From: panama City USA
Head Work
Well finally pulled the trusty 300 out of my truck today, thought about dropping in a V8, but no I will not do that. So I took off the head and am getting ready to drop it off at the machine shop. What head work would you recommend, I plan on a barrel intake and carb, with a good cam, headers and good ignition system. Please give me your thoughts, need a list for the machine shop to go by..Thanks. Do I drop bigger valves in it, and how big. what about screw in studs, I think I would like to go with Roller Rockers, what is involved with installing these. By the way the truck is a 1965 ford f-100, the engine is a 1975 I6. Thanks again....
Senior User
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 105
Likes: 0
Head Work
I am in your situation and here's what I am doing:
I am sending a 240 head in next week to be cut for 1.94"/1.60" stainless swirl polished valves, bronze guides, screw-in studs. I am not milling the head because it already has small chambers ('67 vintage) but I AM having both the block and manifold sides surfaced.
I have polished the chambers and blended and opened the bowls slightly. The recommendation here is not to get crazy - just to open the bowls a bit and clean them up. Keep the intake rough (40 grit) but get the exh. nice and smooth.
When it comes back I will port-match with dual EFI ex. manifolds and an Offy C-series.
The only issue to be resolved is how I shim the springs - after the 3-angle valve job (do it, you'll get much better low-lift flow) I will be working with about .200" more valve stem. The question is how do you compensate for that? What combo of retainers/shims?
Also keep in mind that you will need longer pushrods. What I am going to do is order a checking pushrod and a set of checking springs to ACCURATELY set the geometry with the roller rockers.
Any thoughts by anybody else regarding spring installed height?
I am sending a 240 head in next week to be cut for 1.94"/1.60" stainless swirl polished valves, bronze guides, screw-in studs. I am not milling the head because it already has small chambers ('67 vintage) but I AM having both the block and manifold sides surfaced.
I have polished the chambers and blended and opened the bowls slightly. The recommendation here is not to get crazy - just to open the bowls a bit and clean them up. Keep the intake rough (40 grit) but get the exh. nice and smooth.
When it comes back I will port-match with dual EFI ex. manifolds and an Offy C-series.
The only issue to be resolved is how I shim the springs - after the 3-angle valve job (do it, you'll get much better low-lift flow) I will be working with about .200" more valve stem. The question is how do you compensate for that? What combo of retainers/shims?
Also keep in mind that you will need longer pushrods. What I am going to do is order a checking pushrod and a set of checking springs to ACCURATELY set the geometry with the roller rockers.
Any thoughts by anybody else regarding spring installed height?
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