Spark plug replacement on 5.4 Triton
New User
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 2
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2003 Ford Expedition - Spark Plug Change at 105k
Wow! Thank you so much for your write up. The 2003 isn't an exact match, but pretty close. Your write up gave me the confidence to just get started (I'd been sitting on it for a while) and work through it.
I was able to change all the plugs without removing the fuel rails, and it took me about 4 hours (probably would have taken me an hour less if I had a few swivel extensions and a longer 3/8" extension.
The only comment I would add for others is to get yourself a telescoping mirror for checking the spark plug wells for debris. The wells on the passenger side face toward the rear of the truck, so you can only see the first one without the help of a mirror. I used my wife's compact for the second. It wasn't compact enough for the third and fourth, so it met the hammer and I ended with a piece that was just right.
Thanks again. People like yourself that take the time to share are the salt of the earth.
Nathan
I was able to change all the plugs without removing the fuel rails, and it took me about 4 hours (probably would have taken me an hour less if I had a few swivel extensions and a longer 3/8" extension.
The only comment I would add for others is to get yourself a telescoping mirror for checking the spark plug wells for debris. The wells on the passenger side face toward the rear of the truck, so you can only see the first one without the help of a mirror. I used my wife's compact for the second. It wasn't compact enough for the third and fourth, so it met the hammer and I ended with a piece that was just right.
Thanks again. People like yourself that take the time to share are the salt of the earth.
Nathan
Fleet Owner
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 24,316
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From: 0,0,1
New User
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 1
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HELP!! Broken swivel pin falling into spark plug hole...
Hello. new here... My husband has been fighting my spark plugs for the past two days. Today the swivel he was using broke and the pin fell down into the spark plug hole. He's tried everything he can think of to get it out.. Any suggestions? 
Fleet Owner
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 24,316
Likes: 5,127
From: 0,0,1
Either a telescoping magnet like this:
2 Piece Magnetic Pickup Tool Set
or a pick-up claw like this:
24" 2-in-1 Pickup Tool
Either tool can be bought at a hardware or auto parts store.
2 Piece Magnetic Pickup Tool Set
or a pick-up claw like this:
24" 2-in-1 Pickup Tool
Either tool can be bought at a hardware or auto parts store.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,082
Likes: 40
From: Melbourne, FL
Tape a small rubber hose to the end of a house or shop vac hose. Fish the small rubber hose down around there. Others have had good luck with this approach when "something" goes into the spark plug hole.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Apr 2008
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From: 0,0,1
It only takes 10 minutes to remove the fuel rail. Why would you waste 3 hours trying to get around it?
Freshman User
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 25
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Basically Fear of the unknown
I have never removed the fuel rail before. Is there anything special that needs to happen prior? Do I just remove the two screws and lift? Sorry for the what may sound stupid to you questions, but I really just dont want to screw anything up.
Frustration level at an all time high. Out of beer and no car to get get replenishments.
If you could provide tips on fuel rail removal...I would be forever grateful.
Tim
Frustration level at an all time high. Out of beer and no car to get get replenishments.
If you could provide tips on fuel rail removal...I would be forever grateful.
Tim
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Fleet Owner
Joined: Apr 2008
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From: 0,0,1
On each side of the intake the fuel rail is held in place by two bolts. Remove the bolts and you might get enough play out of the fuel rail so you don't have to remove it. But if you don't get enough play, after removing the bolts just wiggle the fuel rail while pulling up. The injectors will pull out of the intake and stay with the fuel rail. When it's time to reinsert it, lightly lube the o-rings on the bottom of the injectors and they'll slide back in real easy. I usually use Vaseline on the o-rings because it will dry up fairly quickly.
Freshman User
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 25
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Ok...part of the problem solved....
Fuel rail came off...but all but one of the injectors remained connected to the rail. One is still stuck in the maifold. Gave up for the evening due to freak thunderstorm and lack of beer.
Attempting again today. Need to somehow pry the injector out of the manifold and plug back into the fuel rail without cracking it. (Any tips?)
I was able to get some lube on the injectrs for the other ports and they slipped back in just fine. Its getting the other injector back into the rail that look lie it is going to be a pain in the a$$ due to the lack of working room.
I did fin another problem (which ironically was the cause of all my problems)...a 90 dgree albow connecting to the manifold on the drivers side which I beliee is part of the PCV system had a gaping hole in on the inner bend side. Nappa didn't have the part, so I got another one that looked like I could try to make it fit until I can get to Ford on Monday.
Anyway, if I give up today it won't be due to lack of beer. Fresh 18-pack chilling and ready for consumption.
Wish me luck.
Tim
Attempting again today. Need to somehow pry the injector out of the manifold and plug back into the fuel rail without cracking it. (Any tips?)
I was able to get some lube on the injectrs for the other ports and they slipped back in just fine. Its getting the other injector back into the rail that look lie it is going to be a pain in the a$$ due to the lack of working room.
I did fin another problem (which ironically was the cause of all my problems)...a 90 dgree albow connecting to the manifold on the drivers side which I beliee is part of the PCV system had a gaping hole in on the inner bend side. Nappa didn't have the part, so I got another one that looked like I could try to make it fit until I can get to Ford on Monday.
Anyway, if I give up today it won't be due to lack of beer. Fresh 18-pack chilling and ready for consumption.
Wish me luck.
Tim
Freshman User
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 25
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Keeping things clean
How does one clean threads in the head after pulling really corroded plugs?
-I sprayed massive amounts of dirt/rust/dust from the holes with my air hose after COP removal to clean out as much as possible
-I then used a bit of PB Blaster on the plugs
-I removed the plugs, and noted lots of nasty corrosion
I now have nasy threads in the head (so far as I can tell, and assume) that are also saturated with PB Blaster. Inevitably, something nasty had to have gone into the cylinders by now too (tiny particles of corroded plug saturated with PB Blaster).
Questions that arise:
-How screwed will my clynders be if I cant get the particles out?
-How do I clean the threads before putting new plugs in (Flaky crap is on them, plus I dont want corrosion to affect torque accuracy).
-Will the engine (or cat converter) be screwed by some PB Blaster firing through it for a few seconds when all is done?
-I sprayed massive amounts of dirt/rust/dust from the holes with my air hose after COP removal to clean out as much as possible
-I then used a bit of PB Blaster on the plugs
-I removed the plugs, and noted lots of nasty corrosion
I now have nasy threads in the head (so far as I can tell, and assume) that are also saturated with PB Blaster. Inevitably, something nasty had to have gone into the cylinders by now too (tiny particles of corroded plug saturated with PB Blaster).
Questions that arise:
-How screwed will my clynders be if I cant get the particles out?
-How do I clean the threads before putting new plugs in (Flaky crap is on them, plus I dont want corrosion to affect torque accuracy).
-Will the engine (or cat converter) be screwed by some PB Blaster firing through it for a few seconds when all is done?
Senior User
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 317
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From: Omaha, Nebraska USA
I have a thread chaser that I bought years ago. It has the large size on one end and the small on the other. It also has a pentagon in the middle so a deep well socket can be used to turn this tool. Put some grease on the thread chaser hopefully to grab some of the junk and keep it out of the cylinder. The vacuum idea must work because if you are installing a timecert the recomend the grease and the vacuum also. If you are going to use a tool like this be very careful as these heads are prone to thread problems on a good day.
Freshman User
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 25
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No need to run a thread tool in, they are not blocked. I just want to clean em. I'm thinking about doing dental work. Vaccum hose leading up to toothbrush bristles.
I just dont want crap in the cylinders, and any scrubbing I do on the threads... gravity will decide where everything is going to go, unless I have some fancy fandangled friggen vaccum tool. So annoying. Maybe I am being overly cautious? But i dont need "rusty sandpaper" in my rings, nor do I need torque issues on these plugs, as we all very well know.
I just dont want crap in the cylinders, and any scrubbing I do on the threads... gravity will decide where everything is going to go, unless I have some fancy fandangled friggen vaccum tool. So annoying. Maybe I am being overly cautious? But i dont need "rusty sandpaper" in my rings, nor do I need torque issues on these plugs, as we all very well know.