Several questions, need some help.
Thread Starter
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Postmaster
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 3,724
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From: Clarksburg WV
Several questions, need some help.
1- What is the easiest way to remove the turbo from a factory turbo engine? I got the heat shielding all pulled off, and it looks like it will be about impossible to get at the bolts holding the turbo to the up-pipe. I'd like to just remove the turbo with the up-pipe still bolted to it but I figure that slip joint is probably pretty well rusted up. I sprayed everything down with PB blaster tonight but I dunno how much that'll help. I got the bolts out of the drain line/mount and took the bolt out of the intake "hat" but the turbo isn't budging.
2- Does anybody know what size the NPT fitting at the back of the block is that the adapter for the turbo oil line threads into? Also does the feed line for the turbo really NEED to be 5/16" or 3/8"? I'd like to throw a braided line on there and I've always seen/run -4 AN feed lines on turbos. What's on there is equivalent to a -6 AN which seems a bit large.
3- When I open my driver's side door the dome light doesn't always come on. It does always come on when you open the passenger side. If you play around with that little button thing (that turns off the chime/dome light when you close the door) sometimes the light will come on, but it usually won't come back on next time you open the door. What should I check for this.
4- How does the cruise control work on these trucks? When I drove it out to my dad's house I had the cruise on for a bit and it didn't seem to be working right except on hills. The rest of the time it was like it would accelerate, let off, accelerate, let off- constantly. I don't really understand why it was doing that. Also, the speedo needle seems to randomly jump around and the tach needle does the same thing.
Thanks
2- Does anybody know what size the NPT fitting at the back of the block is that the adapter for the turbo oil line threads into? Also does the feed line for the turbo really NEED to be 5/16" or 3/8"? I'd like to throw a braided line on there and I've always seen/run -4 AN feed lines on turbos. What's on there is equivalent to a -6 AN which seems a bit large.
3- When I open my driver's side door the dome light doesn't always come on. It does always come on when you open the passenger side. If you play around with that little button thing (that turns off the chime/dome light when you close the door) sometimes the light will come on, but it usually won't come back on next time you open the door. What should I check for this.
4- How does the cruise control work on these trucks? When I drove it out to my dad's house I had the cruise on for a bit and it didn't seem to be working right except on hills. The rest of the time it was like it would accelerate, let off, accelerate, let off- constantly. I don't really understand why it was doing that. Also, the speedo needle seems to randomly jump around and the tach needle does the same thing.
Thanks
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 5,638
Likes: 1
From: Manitoba
Question 1: I cant help you with, but visit the manufacturers web page ATS I believe.
2. The present sender sits on an extension which screws inro the block, you would need a nipple for your line to go direct........
3. Probably just a bad switch..... replace it.
4. If the speedo does not work flawlessly then the cruise will not either...... there is a sensor on the rear axle pumpkin..... (VSS) vehicle speed sensor
Vehicle speed signal
The Programable Speedometer/Odometer Module receives a speed signal input from the Differential Speed Sensor (VSS), and uses a programable conversion constant to convert the signal to the standard 8000 pulses per mile speed signal output. The speed signal output is proportional to the road speed of the vehicle. The PS/OM supplies this signal to all components that require vehicle speed information including the Speed Control Amplifier and the Powertrain Control Module(PCM).
Nine out of ten times the VSS can be the problem and at <$25 a much cheaper fix.
What size tires are installed, also the cruise cable could be jamming and need some lube.....
.....................................
The tach problem could be the sender...
A dead tach sender should/would send the automatic trans into a "failure management mode" (limp mode) with harsh engagements and firm shift feel and an abnormal shift schedule. It has no effect on a manual trans only the Tach readings.
Check the wires where they exit the big nut on the oil filler housing , known to short out due to bare wire.....
Replace the tach sender on the oil fill housing a big 1" nut with 2 wires. Ford only part Engine RPM sensor E5TZ-17B384-A about $50. You can remove and clean it but usually changed later too.
You can test it too, hold it in the air away from ferrous metal, using an ohm meter lead on each wire you need DC resistance between 2000-3000 ohms.
.................................................. ...
There have been recent report about the instrument cluster electrical connectors coming loose an the rear of the cluster, remove/reconnecting them has done wonders to fix similar problems.
2. The present sender sits on an extension which screws inro the block, you would need a nipple for your line to go direct........
3. Probably just a bad switch..... replace it.
4. If the speedo does not work flawlessly then the cruise will not either...... there is a sensor on the rear axle pumpkin..... (VSS) vehicle speed sensor
Vehicle speed signal
The Programable Speedometer/Odometer Module receives a speed signal input from the Differential Speed Sensor (VSS), and uses a programable conversion constant to convert the signal to the standard 8000 pulses per mile speed signal output. The speed signal output is proportional to the road speed of the vehicle. The PS/OM supplies this signal to all components that require vehicle speed information including the Speed Control Amplifier and the Powertrain Control Module(PCM).
Nine out of ten times the VSS can be the problem and at <$25 a much cheaper fix.
What size tires are installed, also the cruise cable could be jamming and need some lube.....
.....................................
The tach problem could be the sender...
A dead tach sender should/would send the automatic trans into a "failure management mode" (limp mode) with harsh engagements and firm shift feel and an abnormal shift schedule. It has no effect on a manual trans only the Tach readings.
Check the wires where they exit the big nut on the oil filler housing , known to short out due to bare wire.....
Replace the tach sender on the oil fill housing a big 1" nut with 2 wires. Ford only part Engine RPM sensor E5TZ-17B384-A about $50. You can remove and clean it but usually changed later too.
You can test it too, hold it in the air away from ferrous metal, using an ohm meter lead on each wire you need DC resistance between 2000-3000 ohms.
.................................................. ...
There have been recent report about the instrument cluster electrical connectors coming loose an the rear of the cluster, remove/reconnecting them has done wonders to fix similar problems.
Thread Starter
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Postmaster
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 3,724
Likes: 0
From: Clarksburg WV
ATS's website really just tells you how to install it, not remove it.
The instructions with the upgrade kit just tell you how to remove the exhaust elbow with the turbo in the truck. Yeah right. I can about guarantee that at least 4 of the bolts on the turbine will break off, if not all, when I try to remove them.
Anyway I will check out the speed sensor and RPM sensor. Tires are 265/75R16.
The instructions with the upgrade kit just tell you how to remove the exhaust elbow with the turbo in the truck. Yeah right. I can about guarantee that at least 4 of the bolts on the turbine will break off, if not all, when I try to remove them.
Anyway I will check out the speed sensor and RPM sensor. Tires are 265/75R16.
