Check this thread, and maybe send smoky_diesel a PM to ask for the details of how he tested his MAP sensor. As mentioned above, low fuel pressure can also cause your symptom of sluggish performance. If you test the waste gate action using vice grips like I suggested, you can tell for sure if it opens, and then closes tightly again. You'll feel a definite clunk as the wastegate returns to its seat when you relieve the pushing force on the rod. Push toward the turbo to open, and relax the force to let it close.

MAP voltage vs pressure test results
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/672958-map-voltage-vs-pressure-test-results.html

 

Hey there,

Thanks for the suggestion , I did go out and check the motion of the wastegate and attached rod. Wastegate valve opened without any problem and seemed to seat as well as i could see. I think I am dwelling too long on the wastegate actuator failure hypothisis presented by my mechanic friend. I just know that when I bought my truck a few months ago it was ?,????? , hauled ***. Hit the turbo and it sounded like a jet hitting reverse thrusters. Now it just does not act or sound the same to me. Do not misunderstand me when I say the truck still runs good , because it does. I bought the truck with 52k and now it just hit 72k the other day. I just remember the OMYGOD feeeling I had , want it back..

 

Have you been doing the proper maintenance during those 20K miles. I would've done 3 oil changes, 2 fuel filters, and 1 air cleaner, and the tranny fluid! How long since you did each of these things?

 

Yep, agreed, back to the basics. Maintenance items, boost leaks, exhaust leaks, and definately make sure the fuel is up to snuff. Run old oil in the truck, it will run like an old sick truck. Oil fires the injectors.

 

Hey There,
In reply to your questions , 4 oil changes , tranny fluind about 4k ago and kn air filter cleaned several times to say the least. Oh yea the fuel filter , changed and cleaned fuel bowl also. I run rotella 15/40. I hope this answers tenns comment also.

What about the definate turbo whine I used to hear when working the turbo , you could hear and feel it working without a doubt.

 

The next step is the last on the list I gave previously, but now that I see you've got a K&N filter, it's quite possible that filter has dusted your turbo, and that's what caused the gradual onset of your sluggish performance. How many miles has the K&N been run? It only took about 20K for one to help ruin my first turbo!

Pull the rubber boot from the turbo inlet, and check the turbo compressor wheel to make sure it spins freely and doesn't have excessive end or side play. Grab the center nut with your thumb and fingers, and try to force it in and out, and side to side, and up and down. If there's a lot of play there you either need a rebuild kit, or you might have some issues on the turbine side like chipped blades, and need a complete rebuilt turbo.

If your turbo bearing is ok, then you need to have your CAC pressurized to check for leaks. Even though you checked the clamps at each connection, there's still a possibility of a leak.

If your K&N filter is the flat kind in a stock air box, it should be replaced with the newer revised Motorcraft filter that won't distort under load and leak around the edges like that K&N does. In either case, neither a flat or a cone K&N filters with high enough efficiency for a PSD application.

Also check the hose to the MAP sensor which is shown on the pic below.

 

hey you,
Thanks for the reply. The map sensor hose looks fine , just a look at inspection. I need to bulid the bottle canister tool that one guy on here had to check the cold air intaake? The air filter canister has a sticker on it that says it can be cleaned and it is made by applied technolagies ? not kn i guess. The filter was in my truck when I bought it but I do keep it clean. I am getting 18.9 miles to the gallon accord to my dig readout. If my turbo was going or gone south would my mileage go with it?

 

Hey Gene, what is that extra little spring on your WG arm. Are you also running the ghetto spring mod??? Need better pic

 

it can be built from low's for less then 20 bucks using a 3" PVC coupling with a end cap and a air reg for a air compressor..scuff up the end of the 3" PVC coupling to be clamped to the intake tube so the boot will not slip off..cap the other end..drill and tap for regulator..take out and plug the hole for the green line in the intake tube and build up the system with 25 psi of compressed air and listen for air hissing out like a leak in a tire..the system will not hold air for a long amount of time..use the reg to hold 25 psi..if you cant hear the air hissing.. then you are good to go. if you do hear hissing. track it down and see why it leaks..

 

hey you,
Thanks for the reply. The map sensor hose looks fine , just a look at inspection. I need to bulid the bottle canister tool that one guy on here had to check the cold air intaake? The air filter canister has a sticker on it that says it can be cleaned and it is made by applied technolagies ? not kn i guess. The filter was in my truck when I bought it but I do keep it clean. I am getting 18.9 miles to the gallon accord to my dig readout. If my turbo was going or gone south would my mileage go with it?


Are you unhooking the 4 inch line going to the front by the radiator? if so what do you do with the other end that is left open? Cap it off or what?

 

no its not hooked up..just stood it up for the pic..i have a spare intake tube and i keep it on the end of the PVC...after you build it..un hook the intake tube going to the turbo..from the CCV adapter and plug this in its place...this way the whole system is being checked all at once..

 

Here's a better pic of the "Gene-Spring" mod to detune your turbo boost... Click for full size image and here's the short version of why I installed it, and why it's not there now.

My old plug-in type Superchip somehow disabled all PCM control of the boost control solenoid, just like disconnecting the red line does. When I towed grades, my boost would stay at 26-27 psi for long periods, and that combined with some surge is what helped to destroy my first turbo.

After I installed my rebuilt turbo, I came up with the compression spring to cancel some of the canister spring tension, so that the waste gate would blow open sooner and limit the boost. I kept inserting slotted washers to increase the spring compression until I got the boost to self limit at 22 psi. The zip ties are just to keep the washers from rotating so they can't fall off.

After I installed my DP chip and did some road testing, I removed the spring, and found that the DP controls boost so that it limits at about 22 psi, and I no longer need the spring.

I still plan on stopping by Millbrook several weeks prior to Smokin. If you've been following several recent threads, you'll know I'm asking you to round up as many old 6637 filters as you can, and Ill also need to find some stove pipe or 5" dia dryer vent pipe to fabricate a simulated stack.

 

Hey gene or ?,

Did you see my reply to the air cleaner comment you had and others? What is a usual symptom of a turrbo charger going or gone bad? Ever hear of the filter I have ? Im going to make the canister today also , How easy is it to tap pvc by the way , never attempted to tap pvc? Any trick I need to lnow?

 

I Googled Applied Technologies, but nothing on air filters came up, and I've never heard of that brand. However if you're using a flat filter in a stock air box, the problem is that under high air flow conditions, the filter distorts and allows unfiltered air to enter around the edges. Ford came out with a new revised Motorcraft filter that supposedly solved that problem, and that's the only one I'd recommend. I think the AIS is the best choice if you upgrade from the stock air box.

Check this pic Click for full size image and you can see how I bent the hook radius on each of the air box spring clips to get a nice firm and equal tension on each one.

This pic Click for full size image shows the fitting I installed in the plastic oil filler tube. I drilled an undersize hole, used a fitting with a tapered thread, coated it with clear locktite, and self threaded it into the plastic, than added some locktite around the outside, and let it dry.

 

Thanks,
I appreciate the answers you guys are giving me on here for sure. MY TRUCK STILL HAS TURBO BOOST , BY THE WAY. wHAT WAS THE LOUD WHINE i USED TO HEAR FROM THE TURBO IN THE PAST. tHE hIGH PITCHED SOUND FROM THE TURBO{ ITHINK THAT WHAT MADE IT } AND FULL BOOST THAT FOLLOWED HAVE SEEMED TO GO SOUTH. i STILL HAVE TURBO RESPONSE BUT IT TAKES MORE THROTTLE TO GET THERE AND THE LOUD WHINE IS GONE? oH YEA THERE IS TURBO LAG AT TIMES ALSO.