Johnny Cash Engine update
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From: Vallejo, CA
Johnny Cash Engine update
Hey everyone,
I just checked the oil in my truck and smelled a little gas in it, I think. At this point I may be a little paranoid after all the drama this engine has given me. I am going to check the float bowl again and play around with the carb a little more. I am seriously tempted to go and buy a 4bbl carb and intake and be done with this problem. What is the name of the Australian company that makes good intakes? I am not sure if I want to go with them or Edelbrock.
I have mentioned in a previous thread that there is a funny knocking noise on the passenger side. It only happens while the engine is cold. It decreases or disappears after the engine is warm. Dan looked at it last weekend and thought it might be wrist pin. This week, the neighbor mechanic (Mike) wanted to check my engine as part of the follow on service for the installation he did at his shop. I had him check out the noise too. He said the same thing as Dan, that he thinks it is the wrist pin. Dan said it might be just one of the noises that I have to get used to. Mike said I have a few options.
1. Have the guy who rebuilt it send another engine down to replace it. I am finished with that guy. He is nice, but he messed up two engine rebuilds. Once he finishes paying me my costs for the last problem, I am done with him.
2. Get another engine or have Mike or someone else build me a great engine. I am tired of throwing money at the engine, but I will do it if I need to.
3. As Mike said, "... or drive the S@#t out this one and then do step two years down the road." This is kind of what Dan said. It is frustrating as hell since I paid thousands of dollars for not one, but two lousy rebuilds. Oh well, I will go for this one. Since I am only putting few thousand miles a year at most on the truck, this plan makes the most sense.
Hope everyone is having a good weekend.
I just checked the oil in my truck and smelled a little gas in it, I think. At this point I may be a little paranoid after all the drama this engine has given me. I am going to check the float bowl again and play around with the carb a little more. I am seriously tempted to go and buy a 4bbl carb and intake and be done with this problem. What is the name of the Australian company that makes good intakes? I am not sure if I want to go with them or Edelbrock.
I have mentioned in a previous thread that there is a funny knocking noise on the passenger side. It only happens while the engine is cold. It decreases or disappears after the engine is warm. Dan looked at it last weekend and thought it might be wrist pin. This week, the neighbor mechanic (Mike) wanted to check my engine as part of the follow on service for the installation he did at his shop. I had him check out the noise too. He said the same thing as Dan, that he thinks it is the wrist pin. Dan said it might be just one of the noises that I have to get used to. Mike said I have a few options.
1. Have the guy who rebuilt it send another engine down to replace it. I am finished with that guy. He is nice, but he messed up two engine rebuilds. Once he finishes paying me my costs for the last problem, I am done with him.
2. Get another engine or have Mike or someone else build me a great engine. I am tired of throwing money at the engine, but I will do it if I need to.
3. As Mike said, "... or drive the S@#t out this one and then do step two years down the road." This is kind of what Dan said. It is frustrating as hell since I paid thousands of dollars for not one, but two lousy rebuilds. Oh well, I will go for this one. Since I am only putting few thousand miles a year at most on the truck, this plan makes the most sense.
Hope everyone is having a good weekend.
Postmaster
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 4,172
Likes: 1
From: Oakdale,Ca.
Upper wristpins and rod stuff can be quickly diagnosed...just do this....
Pulll a plug wire one at a time when the egnine is "knocking", if the knock goes away when you pull the plug wire, the 99.99% sure it's a wristpin or rod bearing/floater-depending on what was used.
Once you remove the "spark" by pulling the plug, there's no "eplosions" that can occur on top of the piston, hence the noise goes away.
Usually, upper bearng/pin noise is more of a higher piotched knock..i/e like a click/clank, lower end knocks are more duller, softer sounding, and are not affected by combustion, just rotating mass.
I have to kind of go with your buddy's recommedation, just drive it (with gas prices these days, most likely you won't be too far from home) and see what happens.
I've seen some weird noises caused by much less though, bad valve springs, bent push rods, etc..even exhaust leaks can have a metallic ring to them.
I'd start with the plug wire test first, if nothing chages, I'd pull the VC's and see what things look like inside.
I'm free tomorrow if you want to run it down here we could tear into it.
Pulll a plug wire one at a time when the egnine is "knocking", if the knock goes away when you pull the plug wire, the 99.99% sure it's a wristpin or rod bearing/floater-depending on what was used.
Once you remove the "spark" by pulling the plug, there's no "eplosions" that can occur on top of the piston, hence the noise goes away.
Usually, upper bearng/pin noise is more of a higher piotched knock..i/e like a click/clank, lower end knocks are more duller, softer sounding, and are not affected by combustion, just rotating mass.
I have to kind of go with your buddy's recommedation, just drive it (with gas prices these days, most likely you won't be too far from home) and see what happens.
I've seen some weird noises caused by much less though, bad valve springs, bent push rods, etc..even exhaust leaks can have a metallic ring to them.
I'd start with the plug wire test first, if nothing chages, I'd pull the VC's and see what things look like inside.
I'm free tomorrow if you want to run it down here we could tear into it.
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From: Vallejo, CA
Originally Posted by 3Mike6
I'm free tomorrow if you want to run it down here we could tear into it.
My wife and are having an early Thanksgiving at our place tomorrow, otherwise I would be up to the drive. Maybe another weekend would work?
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Joined: Feb 2007
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From: Livermore, Ca.
What happened here? Fastmover did you get the clatter out?
That noise only when cold could be exhaust leaks. Do you have headers on there? The bolts are prone to backing out a few times within the first few thousands of miles once installed. I personally like header bolts with keepers. They are expensive, but look cool and can save a lot of money and time down the road.
That noise only when cold could be exhaust leaks. Do you have headers on there? The bolts are prone to backing out a few times within the first few thousands of miles once installed. I personally like header bolts with keepers. They are expensive, but look cool and can save a lot of money and time down the road.
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From: Vallejo, CA
Originally Posted by Mecinoid
What happened here? Fastmover did you get the clatter out?
That noise only when cold could be exhaust leaks. Do you have headers on there? The bolts are prone to backing out a few times within the first few thousands of miles once installed. I personally like header bolts with keepers. They are expensive, but look cool and can save a lot of money and time down the road.
That noise only when cold could be exhaust leaks. Do you have headers on there? The bolts are prone to backing out a few times within the first few thousands of miles once installed. I personally like header bolts with keepers. They are expensive, but look cool and can save a lot of money and time down the road.
Great questions. The noise is unfortunately from the engine. I haven't tried Mike's idea of pulling spark plug wires to see which cylinder has the issue, but two people smarter than me about mechanical things (Dan and my neighbor) speculate the wrist pin problem.
My headers do leak though. I will look into the header bolts with keepers. I plan to take off the headers paint them with special POR 15 header/manifold paint, put on a special thick gasket, put on the header bolts you mentioned, and then hope the leaks are gone. Anybody know who makes a good gasket for headers that really seals up the leaks?
Post Fiend
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 5,231
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From: Near Fresno, California
I am no expert when it comes to headers, but I have always heard that a thick, soft-copper gasket is best. A good parts-man at a NAPA store should be able find you a set.
As to your engine noise, wrist pins are the universal choice for strange knocks, and most often wrong. You also don't want to disconnect your plug wires - that can damage your ignition. Use a test light to short the plug to ground.
One of the engine rebuilders has a write-up on engine noise I find useful - http://remanufactured-engines.com/page4.htm
but the best advice my dad ever gave me was to remember that you are driving a Ford, and to use ear plugs when the knocks got to where they bothered you!
As to your engine noise, wrist pins are the universal choice for strange knocks, and most often wrong. You also don't want to disconnect your plug wires - that can damage your ignition. Use a test light to short the plug to ground.
One of the engine rebuilders has a write-up on engine noise I find useful - http://remanufactured-engines.com/page4.htm
but the best advice my dad ever gave me was to remember that you are driving a Ford, and to use ear plugs when the knocks got to where they bothered you!
