moter oil
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moter oil
Ok this is very annoying I have a 93 nonturbo i accidentally ran gas moter oil in it for 2000 miles. My mechanic thinks I need a new moter. I believe that i need new bearings. what is the differance in gas moter oil and diesel moter oil other than the soot additives? I thought it ruined my oil pump, but my mech replaced it. now (with rotella t) it starts to lose pressure when it gets warmer it wasnt doing that befor the mech messed with it (when I had delo in it) should I rebuild the moter or is it another problem. I would think that if the film strength was the same it would not harm the bearings. what do yall think.
Last edited by lazyscholar; Nov 13, 2007 at 09:45 PM.
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From: Corvallis/Albany, Ore.
I think you need a second opinion, bro. 2000 miles with nondiesel oil? I really doubt that's enough to bugger yer bearings.
Back when I was young and stupid, I had a diesel Audi 5000. I had no idea how to take care of that car. I ran it for about 30,000 miles on Unocal 20W50. Yeah, it deteriorated, but not in 2,000 miles.
Did you notice the pressure problem developing while the gas oil was in 5the crankcase?
Dude, back in the 80s people ran Olds and Caddy diesels on gasoline oil from the factory all the way through their first head gasket failure at 23,000 miles without losing oil pressure. And that was in a much fluffier engine than you've got. I just am not buying it...
--Finn John (90 F250 std cab 4x4, ZF-5, 4.10s, 444 "IH Inside")
Corvallis/Albany, Ore.
Back when I was young and stupid, I had a diesel Audi 5000. I had no idea how to take care of that car. I ran it for about 30,000 miles on Unocal 20W50. Yeah, it deteriorated, but not in 2,000 miles.
Did you notice the pressure problem developing while the gas oil was in 5the crankcase?
Dude, back in the 80s people ran Olds and Caddy diesels on gasoline oil from the factory all the way through their first head gasket failure at 23,000 miles without losing oil pressure. And that was in a much fluffier engine than you've got. I just am not buying it...
--Finn John (90 F250 std cab 4x4, ZF-5, 4.10s, 444 "IH Inside")
Corvallis/Albany, Ore.
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From: Conway, AR
Sounds like time for a new mechanic.2000 miles on gas burner oil isn't going to hurt a thing.
Try popping a new sending unit for the gauge in there. The factory gauge isn't much more than an idiot light with a needle, they aren't very accurate and it's common for sending units to fold.
Try that or better yet, a real mechanical gauge on ht to see if there's really a pressure problem.
-------Robert
Try popping a new sending unit for the gauge in there. The factory gauge isn't much more than an idiot light with a needle, they aren't very accurate and it's common for sending units to fold.
Try that or better yet, a real mechanical gauge on ht to see if there's really a pressure problem.
-------Robert
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From: Faibanks Ak.
If your guage shows high motor cold same as always did then goes low warm motor it may not be the guage your mechanic should have a mechanical test guage install it drive until normal temp and you will know for sure. Good luck
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see i had a mech gauge and when it was getting warmed up it would read about 20 it I have a book that says at 3300 rpm it should read between 40 to 70 (it passed) the reason I had the mech look at it was because on my mech oil gauge when it idled it was enough pressure to get the oil to the gauge but not enough to move the needle. maybe a bad connection? The truck was overhauled about 50,000 miles ago, but I question how well the guy did.
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From: Conway, AR
try picking up a decent test gauge like this You need to get an accurate reading before jumping to any conclusions. If the thing was apart 50k miles ago, it's pretty doubtful that you're losing pressure, especially if it';s showing ok at speed.
It will be well worth your money to get the gauge if you can avert a major teardown.
If you were trying a dash type mechanical gauge, with a long narrow tube, they can have a lot of air in there,.Air compresses, so at idle, those things can read rather low unless the air has been bled out of the tube.
-------Robert
It will be well worth your money to get the gauge if you can avert a major teardown.
If you were trying a dash type mechanical gauge, with a long narrow tube, they can have a lot of air in there,.Air compresses, so at idle, those things can read rather low unless the air has been bled out of the tube.
-------Robert
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From: Conway, AR
If you're using a dash type gauge, you could try using a short pice of the clear tubing and filling the clear tubing with oil and then attaching to the gauge, but those things are still not the most accurate on the low end.
If your mechanic was getting 20 psi at idle, that's great pressure. The low oil idiot light on your truck should kick on if pressure drops below 7 psi, anything above that and you're good to go.
If the dash light works ( comes on when you first turn the key to on position before cranking the engine and shuts off once engine starts ) you should have no worries.
If your mechanic was getting 20 psi at idle, that's great pressure. The low oil idiot light on your truck should kick on if pressure drops below 7 psi, anything above that and you're good to go.
If the dash light works ( comes on when you first turn the key to on position before cranking the engine and shuts off once engine starts ) you should have no worries.
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From: Corvallis/Albany, Ore.
Originally Posted by RLDSL
If you're using a dash type gauge, you could try using a short pice of the clear tubing and filling the clear tubing with oil and then attaching to the gauge, but those things are still not the most accurate on the low end.
If your mechanic was getting 20 psi at idle, that's great pressure. The low oil idiot light on your truck should kick on if pressure drops below 7 psi, anything above that and you're good to go.
If the dash light works ( comes on when you first turn the key to on position before cranking the engine and shuts off once engine starts ) you should have no worries.
If your mechanic was getting 20 psi at idle, that's great pressure. The low oil idiot light on your truck should kick on if pressure drops below 7 psi, anything above that and you're good to go.
If the dash light works ( comes on when you first turn the key to on position before cranking the engine and shuts off once engine starts ) you should have no worries.
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well said finzo, and I have proven that oil is moving in there now i did talk to a diesel mech and he said it was the relief valve isnt that the small hole by where the oil filter screws in. I know my engine is running good but i woild like pressure.
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From: Nutter Fort, WV
No, the pressure relief valve is in the rear oil cooler header above the oil filter.
It can only be seen after removing the oil cooler from the engine.
The one you see from the filter location is the filter bypass so you still have oil if the filter clogs completely.
It can only be seen after removing the oil cooler from the engine.
The one you see from the filter location is the filter bypass so you still have oil if the filter clogs completely.