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This weekend I installed disc brakes on my Ford 9". Everything went on pretty easy,(I'll post pics later). The kit comes with Cadillac calipers because of the ebrake mechanism. I could of went with standard calipers (much cheaper) but then I wouldn't have an emergency brake. I'm not sure how to adjust the calipers. I know there is suppose to be no play in the pads, rotor and caliper. I have some play in there. There is some method of adjusting these? Anyone else using these calipers? Could use some help here.
i'm thinking your saying that there is a gap between the pad and rotor. the caliper pistons screw in and out, i believe you make the intial adjustment and after that they "self-adjust".
how much the caliper cost you? did the come with the lever arm and springs?
i'm looking for a pair myself, just can't find them used like the old days..........
52= I am talking about the gap between the pads and rotors. I know there is an initial adjustment, I'm assuming removing the ebrake levers and turning that screw in to the point the pistons comes out to get rid of the gap? My ebrake cables worked fine. As for the calipers, they are hard to find, there is a guy on ebay that sell thems, they all new with the ebrake, springs, everything except the pads for $169, for both and that includes shipping. I saw a few other that are used going for about $80 for the pair, but didn't have the ebrake stuff. You can also use a standard GM caliper which is much cheaper and easier to install, but they you don't have the ebrake. I heard you have to use the ebrake everytime with the Cadillac calipers or the rear calipers won't adjust. I figured there are so many conversion kits out there and they all use this caliper, that's why they are hard to find and cost so much. Someone should have an idea how they work? LOL...
Ed,
What year Caddy were the calipers from? I might have a service manual that applies. If so I will gladly scan is the necessary info and email it to you.
I used to rebuild those Caddy calipers on occasion, but I think too many parties over the years have wiped out the brain cells that kept that information.....lol
Ed,
Give this a try from MPBrakes.com It's what I used to adjust my GM brake calipers. Note that does say you need to set the parking brake each time so that the rear calipers stay in adjustment.
52= I am talking about the gap between the pads and rotors. I know there is an initial adjustment, I'm assuming removing the ebrake levers and turning that screw in to the point the pistons comes out to get rid of the gap?
thats also what i'm talking about, the piston itself is screwed out (that a great link, it say the piston is "ratched" out)......
i've used these calipers for 5 or 6 rear disc brake swaps myself..........
I found my 1986 Eldo/Seville service manual and scanned in the relative brake info. I emailed you a bunch of attachments.
Read through the parking brake adjustment procedure. It says in the manual that before testing the parking brake setting you might have to step on the parking brake pedal 4 to 6 times. I read that to mean that if the parking brake is not used on a regular basis it will indeed be out of adjustment. So, if you don't use it every time you park the truck it might take several applications of it to bring the adjustment up to decent point.
Thanks Bobby, I was fooling around with it and actually took the lever arm for the ebrake off and adjusted it that way. It's very touchy and a pain to adjust. I got the pads right up to the rotor and pumped the brakes, it appears I have a high pedal again, which is a good sign. I've read several articles and the downfall to these calipers is that you have have the e brake pulled on whenever you park the truck. (I don't think I've used my parking brake since I had the truck). Personally, I don't care for the design or the application. Too much adjustment etc. It's amazing how many application on various cars and trucks, etc. use this exact caliper. I haven't driven the truck yet, but it looks good to go so far. I still have to adjust the proprotioning valve for the discs. Thanks to everyone for the info.
Fatfords, you article was extremely helpful. Thanks.
Bobby- Thank you also for the articles.
I was never a big fan of that design either. Don't the late model designs (like on the newer Ford trucks) use a combination rotor that has a small drum brake set up in the inner part of the rotor?
The "drum in hat" is a better and more reliable design. Personally I probably would have adapted a Crown Victoria / Explorer rear discs. Just use the Crown Victoria rotors as they are thicker but the same size.
I'd like to go rear disc but you don't stumble across many 99+ F/E-350 rear axles to steal the brake parts from.
For those of you interested, I just posted a few pics on the conversion. I still have to add a few more but you can see how the conversion went.
They are in my gallery under rear disc conversion.
Ed,
Glad you got it all figured out and adjusted. I remember mine was a little sensative during the initial install/adjustment, trying to get everything bled and adjusted. I try to set my brake every time I park the truck, so since it hasn't moved for a couple of months, I guess it is still in adjustment!
Coincidentally, my wife drives a new Yukon and was complaining about the brakes squeaking a bit. Since it was under warranty, we took it to the dealer. The service guy told her the front brakes looked "over heated" and the rears were "out of adjustment." He asked if she set the park brake, which she does not. His story was that the rears are adjusted by the application of the park brake, so she should do it each time she parks or a minimum of once daily. Sounds like GM is still using the same/similar caliper set-up.