Hey guys, I have alot of things I'd like to do to my F100 truck, but time and MONEY prohibits. So I'd like to maybe try to just change the things that tick me off the worst. First thing on the list is I've changed the front springs 4 times in my Nova subframe. The first set of regular 350 chevy srpings went down Fast!! The second time I put a set of 454 springs the didn't go down at all!! So it set up way to high So then I went to a set of 350 with a/c springs they held for a while but settled down to where they are now. The coils are about 3/8" apart. My bump stops are almost hitting. I dont' want to go up alot, but I'd like to get it off the bump stops.

My question is did I go to the wrong place for springs? I got them from Car-Quest. I'd like to here from some of you suspension gurus out there. I didn't tell you yet, I did make engine mounts to move the engine forward as far as it would go(the oil pan is almost hitting the crossmember) So I know that puts more weight on the springs, but I'd like to hit a happy medium?? I really don't want to run air bags, cause I've heard alot of bad stuff about them. What do you guys think???

Please no arguments about GM stuff and such, just advice. I'm goin to repent and make it all FORD one day, but for now I'm just goin to make due with what I have.

Thanks!!

 

Truxx, as you know I am no mech. genius, but I'm pretty sure you can get (cup style)? spring spacers. wouldn,t that work for you on the set of springs that has settled as far as they are going to?

 

Have you got a level stance, or is there a lot of rake to the front? I don't think most people who use the Nova sub have any problem with the springs. Why did you move the engine forward?

 

Hey guys, I don't have an extreme rake, and I had to move the engine forward to clear the HEI and firewall. It's not alot, but it's enough to make bad matters worse??? I thought about buying some circle track springs? What do you guys think about that?

 

Could you cut some off of the Top and Bottom of the Big Block Springs? Also it kinda makes me wonder if the CarQuest springs are rated same as GM Springs.

 

First you need to stop buying springs *****-nilly. All you are doing is wasting a lot of money. You need to buy the right springs, and to do that on a custom application, you first need to gather information, then go to a quality spring manufacturer and ask them what springs they recommend. Spring manufacturers classify springs not by OEM applications, but by diameter, length (free, ride, and coil bind), number of turns, wire diameter and stiffness (#s per inch of deflection, but commonly refered to just by #, the per inch being understood) They may stock something that will fit your needs, but can also make a set that is exactly what you need. Don't let that scare you, springs are wound one at a time, so a custom set should not cost any apreciable amount more than a stock application set, the winding machine doesn't care what the application is.
Is your truck at or near it's final weight, sheet metal/bed etc all in place? If so, put in the set of springs that sit closest to your desired ride height, take it to your closest large truck stop or public scales. Weigh the front end weight, the rear end weight and total weight with you in the truck. For the front or rear end weight just park the truck with that set of wheels on the platform and the other end off the platform on the ground. The total weight should equal the front + the rear weights.
Now take it home to the garage remove one of the springs and jack up the frame to the exact desired ride height, with the springless tire sitting on the ground. (Be sure you will have enought adjustment range in the suspension at that height to align the front end correctly when you are finished.) and measure the distance between the top and bottom perch, including any insulating rubber seats. This will be the compressed static length. Just for completeness measure the inside and outside diameter of the spring and note if the ends of the wire is cut square or is ground so the spring sits flat on the floor.
Now pick up the phone and call your favorite spring manufacturer such as Eaton Detroit Spring http://www.eatonsprings.com/Spring%20Tech%20101.pdf
or Eibach http://eibach.com/cgi-bin/start*****/eibach/index.html?
or Coil Spring Specialties http://www.coilsprings.com/
and ask to talk to a tech support person. (DON'T try to figure out what you need from their catalog etc, and don't email, some of these places even though they list an email addy are not computer savy and/or never check their emails) I find it much better to talk to a live human, they can ask/answer questions immediately and from their attitude you can get a feeling as to how much they are going to be of help. If they don't give you a warm and fuzzy feeling, try another. Like doctors, it also never hurts to get a second opinion.
Unlike the guy behind the parts counter at your local Fly by Night Auto Parts these people WANT to be sure you get the right pieces.

 

It sounds like AX has nailed it. But something I use to use was variable rate springs. they gave a more controlable ride , ie less bodysway better load carrying ability and they didn't drop as fast. when they settled in the hight was good. but alas these were cars and the springs could be bought of the shelf. Kurt G Y-blocks rule.

 

Hey AX, I was waiting for you to chime in. Sounds like GOOD advice! I'll do that when I get round to that part. I got a local farm supplier with a scale near me so I can use them when it comes to the weighing part. I was goin to contact Speedway in Nebraska? What do you think of their springs? That's till you told me about all the other ones? I might just contact them instead. Do you have any idea what the stock spring rate was for a '76 Nova? That might help in my quest for the correct rate.


Thanks again AX

 

Speedway, Summit, Jeggs and a host of others are distributor/reps for several to hundreds of manufacturers, not manufacturers themselves. They can only tell you what the manufacturer's catalog says, and I can guarantee there is no listing for a 56 F100 with Nova clip and pushed forwards SBC engine in there.
Some of the manufacturers I listed like Eibach may not sell you the springs directly, but can tell you what you need, and how to spec it thru one of their distributors. I always try to go directly to the actual manufacturers, they are far more familiar with their products than any distributor, since they usually specialize in only one type of part and as I said it is in their best interest to provide you with the very best solution for your needs. No matter how good the distributors are they will never have that knowlege or ability to know what will work or to spec a custom piece. When I needed power steering hoses for Gracie, I called Gates Belts and Hoses (they didn't have anything to help me in their line and didn't make custom fitups but were still very helpful telling me exactly what I needed so I knew what to look for), and finally Gotta Show who make their own fittings and hoses and were able to give me exactly what I needed. When I needed information on setting up our Solstice for racing, I went directly to GM and the engineers who were in charge of that platform. When I needed custom built racing shock absorbers, I called Koni, Bilstein, Penske and Mouton. Penske was the most helpful sending me to a custom builder that builds shocks for professional road racing teams including GM's. When I wanted the best finish I could get for my garage floor, I called the tech dept at Sherwin Williams industrial coatings division.
If it's a standard off the shelf part I need, then I go to the distributors.

I have no idea the rating on the Nova stock springs, the factories are very tight lipped about giving out those specs (I don't even know the rates on the springs on the Solstice), and in actuality GM probably had a 1/2 dozen or more different rate springs they used in various models. If it's real important to know, pile barbell weights on the loose spring until it compresses 1", but knowing it really won't be of much value, there are too many other variables that need to be considered as well.
PS: the aftermarket made in China replacement springs sold at your local parts store are pure junk as you have already discovered, it's pretty unlikely that two with the same part # would even measure the same rate.

 

Thanks again AX! You Da Man! I knew if anyone could straighten me out you could(at least on this topic) I'll take your advice as soon as I can get to a scale to weigh the front and rear like you said. I think that may be all my problem is on that part is I have CHEAP springs!! the guy at the parts house gave me new ones each time, as I wanted to change them, but the werent any better than what I had


Thanks again AX

 

Yes, the aftermarket replacement springs are basically "one size fits all better than a broken spring" type fitup made from junk steel.

 

Went through this on a MII install years ago. That's why I chose to go with a Volare this time since there are no coil springs to contend with. I don't know if they are still in business or not but I ordered coil springs from a company called A1 Springs which catered to street rod builders. They advertised in the NSRA StreetScene magazine at one time. They take into consideration the vehicle, suspension, and drivetrain to "computer select" the proper spring rate for your application. I replaced the 4 cyl Pinto springs with two rounds cut off for the ones they sent and they were perfect. The wire was much smaller on these springs.