waterpump
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Elder User
Joined: Oct 2007
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From: Ishpeming Mi.
waterpump
As happens to all who own a high milage vehical, sooner or later the waterpump fails. I have a '94 Mazda B-4000 4x4 w/ac. I am going to assume that it is original equipment. Never having dealt with this problem on this engine I'm wondering what I get to deal with. Any special tools needed? Do I have to pull the radiator [I suspect I will]? Any suggestions on what kind of spray penetrant to use to break the bolts loose? Socket sizes? Special incantations or other magical swear words? Last of all, any idea how long this pita will take?
I suspect that you old hands are going to be taking sidebets on how many bolt heads I shear off and how many 'magical incantations' I utter.
It WILL be put back together using 'NeverSeize' on the surviving bolts.
I suspect that you old hands are going to be taking sidebets on how many bolt heads I shear off and how many 'magical incantations' I utter.
It WILL be put back together using 'NeverSeize' on the surviving bolts.
Posting Guru
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 2,155
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From: sunny fla sometimes windy
Unless you live on the beach or something it shouldn't be too bad. Try that CRC freeze
off to get the bolts unstuck it chills the bolt to make it shrink and make the oil penetrate deeper. Be sure to put a thin layer of rtv to ensure a leak proof seal, You
don't have to go crazy with it just a very thin layer. And of course the antisieze.
You may not have to remove the radiator but will ensure you don't get hamburger
knuckles if you slip up!! MAy as well change the thermo stat with a high flow stock
temperature thermostat paying the extra price for the high flow stat is well worth the
money in the summer time with the ac and such. May as well change out the hoses
since you have them off too.
off to get the bolts unstuck it chills the bolt to make it shrink and make the oil penetrate deeper. Be sure to put a thin layer of rtv to ensure a leak proof seal, You
don't have to go crazy with it just a very thin layer. And of course the antisieze.
You may not have to remove the radiator but will ensure you don't get hamburger
knuckles if you slip up!! MAy as well change the thermo stat with a high flow stock
temperature thermostat paying the extra price for the high flow stat is well worth the
money in the summer time with the ac and such. May as well change out the hoses
since you have them off too.
Cargo Master
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 2,414
Likes: 22
From: Tucson USA
only 1 special tool needed and checker or autozone has them for free use. They do have a deposit to ensure you return them. But it is a 1.25 inch I beleive flat spanner to hold the clutch while you break it loose from the shaft. They provide 2 wrenches.
go ahead and pull the rad, have it cleaned, replace the hoses while its out and the t stat, rad cap as now is the time. but you wll need to pull the fan shroud in any case so go for the whole thing it does make it easier.
go ahead and pull the rad, have it cleaned, replace the hoses while its out and the t stat, rad cap as now is the time. but you wll need to pull the fan shroud in any case so go for the whole thing it does make it easier.
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From: Ishpeming Mi.
I'm half way through the job and only sheared one bolt on the waterpump. It was removed without removing the fan, although the radiator and shroud were pulled first. That part was simple. Accessing some of the bolts were a different story, but so far, so good. All of them were 10mm, some required a deep socket and others didn't. Had to pull the Alternator bracket out of the way... 13mm socket and a wrench for the bottom bolt. Having removed the serpintine belt, lower heater hose, and bottom radiator hose, they are all getting replaced. And since I've already removed all the bolts from the thermostat bellhousing for the simple reason of coating them with neverseize, I might as well replace it, too, although it goes against the grain of not replacing something if it ain't broke. Now to get the fan off the bloody waterpump. Ford and their better ideas... jeez.
Cargo Master
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 3,475
Likes: 224
From: Frequently frozen MN
Does this fan require those 2 odd wrenches? If it does, it might have been easier to pull it on the truck .
I pulled one on a 300 I6, and I thought that I was going to shoot 2 pellets out of my personal area. Just in time, I remembered that my direction was wrong. ( I think that it was a left hand thread). Changed direction, and it was still a struggle, but I'm not singing soprano
good luck,
ford2go
I pulled one on a 300 I6, and I thought that I was going to shoot 2 pellets out of my personal area. Just in time, I remembered that my direction was wrong. ( I think that it was a left hand thread). Changed direction, and it was still a struggle, but I'm not singing soprano
good luck,
ford2go
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From: Ishpeming Mi.
the tools
I wound up having to take it to my mechanic to get the fan removed [cost me 10 bucks]. I live in a small town with no Autozone, so if I wanted the tool from them I would have to buy it for an outrageous amount. I'm still waiting for the lower radiator hose to show up. I MIGHT be able to get one at the local Ford dealer, but I'll be damned if I'm going to pop $50 for one 
Lord only knows what they would have charged me to do the complete job. My wife did most of it, I just did the bull work 
Lord only knows what they would have charged me to do the complete job. My wife did most of it, I just did the bull work
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Elder User
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From: Ishpeming Mi.
Job done
The hose finally arrived and when I came home from work my wife had the job 95% done. A couple of minor corrections needed by me, a hose routed wrong, ect. She realised after the radiator was installed the the shroud needed to be set over the fan first. No biggie here in 'da yooper' with winter coming on. She even had the serpintine belt installed!!! I have a good wife so I think I'll keep her Added antifreeze, let it warm up and took it for a spin. System seems to be burped, and with 3" of snow due by morning I'm good to go! 
Added antifreeze, let it warm up and took it for a spin. System seems to be burped, and with 3" of snow due by morning I'm good to go!
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From: Ishpeming Mi.
So another problem rears its ugly head. When I replaced the thermostat the radiator started leaking. When the truck is cold the leaks start at the seams where the core is attached to it's tank and at the opposite end. The core itself isn't leaking, just the seams. As the truck gets warmer the leaking gets worse. I replaced the rad cap to a 13lb one hoping that the leaking would stop. It didn't. As soon as the thermostat opens it stops. There is no overflow back to the reseviore.The thing is that the engine doesn't show the engine gradually warming up like the last one did. It seems to suddenly open, like turning on a light switch, and then the leaking stops. It's a 195* thermostat. Faulty, or just too hot a thermostat? Or other?
After talking with the wife, who says the bolts lined perfectly on tha rad, I'm left wondering it there is a channel on the foam mount below the rad that it needs to fall into. I had noticed an area about 6" wide across the center where it was apparently folded under. Could this be throwing an undue stress on the rad seams up towards the top where it seems to be leaking?
This one has me puzzeled.
After talking with the wife, who says the bolts lined perfectly on tha rad, I'm left wondering it there is a channel on the foam mount below the rad that it needs to fall into. I had noticed an area about 6" wide across the center where it was apparently folded under. Could this be throwing an undue stress on the rad seams up towards the top where it seems to be leaking?
This one has me puzzeled.
Last edited by bazzman1953; Nov 19, 2007 at 07:55 PM.
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Elder User
Joined: Mar 2005
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From: Liberty, MO
On our radiators its a common problem for the leak since you have plastic and aluminum trying to make a seal amungst themselves. Manufacturers still to this day use a cooling system sealer from the factory (Bars) to create the good seals between all the new parts. The regular Bars rad sealer would probably work best (versus the alumaseal) since the leak is where the plastic is. I'm unaware of the current mileage your current rad and/or the truck, but if its over like 150K (easily could be with that age) I'm sure that rad has lived its life out. You'd be looking at $100 or less for a new one.
Cargo Master
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 2,414
Likes: 22
From: Tucson USA
I had a simular problem, it would leak but it was hard to find, turned out to be in the seams like yours. around $100 to replace so go for it while you are working on it. Sealers dont work all that well as I tried them, still R&Rd the rad.
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From: Ishpeming Mi.
The '94 Mazda has 175,000+ but I'm not sure about the rad as it looks pretty clean. We did have to clean grass clipping off of it, though.
Is the T-stat working right?
It seems to me that I should see a gradual rise in engine temp, not a sudden jump in temp. I've payed close attention to the gauge and it is a sudden jump, cold to running temp , as in BANG... right now.
Does running it without a shroud contribute to it? I'm in da yooper and with snow in my yard it isn't exactually warm out.
BCJ, you're welcome, this forum is for everyone who has encountered problems with their Ranger/Mazda Trucks.
I deceided to continue on this thread because it was still part of the original project. The wrenching wasn't complicated [ my wife did 90% of it... but she's not afraid to get her hands dirty] and straight forward. It's the problems that arise at the end when it's supposed to be finished, that leaves one scratching their head, as I am mine.
Is the T-stat working right?
It seems to me that I should see a gradual rise in engine temp, not a sudden jump in temp. I've payed close attention to the gauge and it is a sudden jump, cold to running temp , as in BANG... right now.
Does running it without a shroud contribute to it? I'm in da yooper and with snow in my yard it isn't exactually warm out.
BCJ, you're welcome, this forum is for everyone who has encountered problems with their Ranger/Mazda Trucks.
I deceided to continue on this thread because it was still part of the original project. The wrenching wasn't complicated [ my wife did 90% of it... but she's not afraid to get her hands dirty] and straight forward. It's the problems that arise at the end when it's supposed to be finished, that leaves one scratching their head, as I am mine.
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Elder User
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From: Ishpeming Mi.
I'm going to re-install it when I get back from my road trip this weekend. I've run out of time to do anymore. I did get the tranny fluid replaced. That was some dark stuff after 175xxx miles. No metal on the magnet, thank God.