Sometime in the not too distant future, I will be towing a 7300 lb. trailer from NY to AZ with a 2004 F250 V10. Do I need a weight distributing hitch for the trip???

 

I'm going to say technically, yes. My 2005 factory-installed receiver is rated for 15,000 weight distributing, but only 5,000 without. So per the specs, I'd be 50% overloaded. Hard to say that's a good idea....

 

Yeah I don't think there is a egular hitch other than maybe pintle style that handles much over 5,000#s.

besides, the other factor you need to look at is driver fatigue. With a WD hitch setup and sway control, you will have to make fewer driving corrections and have a smoother ride. This will leave you more relaxed after a long haul.

I have towed a 5,000# trailer with and without a WD hitch and it makes a difference on how worn out you feel after a long drive.

WD will also lead to a safer drive and better controllability of the rig.

Just my opinion.

Jim Henderson

 

You really want a hitch that a sway control can be added to. REESE HUSKY 1000LB hitches are good, and low overall cost, and I have one of those - oddly enough. But I live halfway along your planned route, and you should have it from the start.

The main advantage in an LDH, is that it PLANTS the front wheels back where they need to be, so that you have steeering and braking ability again, vice having the truck tilted back from the load on it.

If a truck rocks back on it's rear axle - it takes weight away from the front tires, causing them to steer ineffectively. This is what an LDH overcomes - it acts as a set of springs between the truck and the load to equalise the footprint of the trucks tires, and make it handle as if there were no trailer behind to begin with, except for the extra mass and momentum (for which electric brakes and controls were invented) and the tendency for uncontrolled sway to develop. Sway controls were designed to take care of THAT....

Look at the links in the sticky thread at the top of this forum, and learn all you can - I guarantee it will help you!

I think you only get in trouble with the law if you have over a 10,000 LB trailer in those states that enforce that, but you will be very glad you have it, and notice an instant difference in handling.

 

Who said I used oatmeal? It was cayenne pepper.........

 

Hell, I would have ate it - I LOVE THAT STUFF

 

I've done a fair amount of cross country runs like the one you describe with a flat deck trailer around the same weight. My truck is the same as yours, but with the Diesel. You're going to want a Weight Distributing Hitch with a sway control for that kind of driving.

 

My 2005 class V hitch on my F350 is rated 15,000 # with weight distributing hitch, 12500 # without weight distributing hitch. 5000 # is tongue weight with weigh distributing hitch.

2005 F350. PSD.CC.FX4.4:10's.Auto.King Ranch. Oxford white / Arizona beige

 

Sorry, but you're mistaken. I have before me now the "2006 RV & Trailer Towing Guide" published by Ford, and on page 25 there is a chart titled "Ford Read Step Bumper/Hitch Receiver Weight Capacity".

The chart contains four columns of weight values, two of which show the "max trailer capacity" and tongue wieght, and the other two show the "Weight-Distributing Max. Trailer Capacity" and tongue weight.

The chart clearly shows a 15,000 pound trailer rating for weight distributing (tongue of 1,500 lbs), and a non-distributing max trailer rating of 6,000 pounds (tongue of 600 lbs). We're talking DRW hear.

For an SRW the rating is 12,500 weight distributing, versus 5,000 without.

If you do have technical literature supporting your position, I would certainly like to know the reference. Otherwise I would really caution you about attempting to tow 12,500 pounds without weight distribution!

 

In many states, driving a rig with a trailer over 10K without an LDH is considered a violation. You can be fined.

 

I tow the trailer pictured at 8000 pounds (3500 trailer and 4500 car inside) without an LDH. I've never had a problem with stability, but I can feel it when a tour bus passes me.

 

Would it matter what you are towing? I tow a jeep on a flatbed total 6K-7K. I have never had a problem. But the load is pretty well balanced on it's own and does not move (if everything is strapped correctly ).)the big factor is getting the tongue weight in the right ball park.

 

Anything with a big frontal area or boxy where the wind can catch it will sway and push the tow vehicle more without a WD hitch. For one thing a WDH throws more weight back on the front axle for improved steering control. One reason a 5th wheel tows nicer. (Another is that the coupling point is several inches ahead of the rear axle on a 5'er, where the tagalong is several feet behind it, giving a long lever arm for the trailer to pivot the tow vehicle around the rear axle). Car trailer is lower with less wind loading, hence less tendancy for the trailer to push side to side. Especially when passing semi trucks. With a poorly set up Non WDH, (or even a good setup to some extent), a passing semi can cause some anxious moments, especially if there is a stiff cross wind anyway.

 

With a thing like that, a sway control is more important But an LDH is a part of the system.

Sway controllers are a device that won't allow the hitch point to whip back and forth, eventually causing an uncontrollable whipping oscillation. The back and forth moving that can flip a towing truck on it's SIDE, with the trailer a wreck behind it....

What do you want? lose a few bucks, or a LOT OF THEM?

You shouldn't have to worry about it while you drive. But it's your decision....

 

barebones, you are correct, I just went out and looked at the hitch. Last time I glanced at the hitch, and saw 5000#. That was for a 2" reciever I think. So I stand corrected....