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Old Nov 7, 2007 | 07:04 PM
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head question

I have an 85 truck 302 block. (roller ready?)
Would it be better to go with early 90s explorer gt-40 heads or 74 heads with smaller chambers? Obviously, the 74s would need hardened seats. I have the 74 heads, but are not easilt conv. to roller. Looking to maybe go thruogh some heads.
 
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Old Nov 8, 2007 | 03:27 AM
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GT40 all day long.........
 
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Old Nov 8, 2007 | 07:53 AM
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Exploder heads!!!
What more compression you have with the early ones will not make up for worse flow.
 
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Old Nov 8, 2007 | 05:08 PM
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thanks for the opinions. Might have to check some j yards around here. What problems might I run into matching heads to block? To make things more interesting, I have the 74 induction setup on top the 85 block/lowerend.
 
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Old Nov 9, 2007 | 06:21 AM
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The 74 heads also have hardened seats, same process the 90's heads get them. All are induction hardened.
 
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Old Nov 9, 2007 | 12:59 PM
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Good to know. I was under the impression they were not.
 
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Old Nov 9, 2007 | 05:20 PM
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Be aware too, that the induction hardening only extends a few thousandths in depth. If you have the seats done too many times or ground too much, the hardened part disappears. This is true for both heads. I did a set of E7's a few years ago and this was the first rebuild for them, so far so good with the seats, they've been in service now for about 50,000 miles. Hopefully they'll go for twice that amount, they showed no signs of valve wear after a year's service when I pulled them off the first motor they were on.
 
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Old Nov 9, 2007 | 05:59 PM
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You'll need some ARP bolts to get the windsor heads to bolt down to the 302......they're bout 40 bucks for the set and I'll be seeing how well they work tomorrow......GT-40's all day long just like Hemi said....might wanna port the exhaust ports a bit too to give you better flow...I gasket matched mine...check out my gallery to see the difference in the one that's been ported and the one that ain't....Luck

JR
 
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Old Nov 10, 2007 | 04:46 AM
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Originally Posted by baddad457
Be aware too, that the induction hardening only extends a few thousandths in depth. If you have the seats done too many times or ground too much, the hardened part disappears. This is true for both heads. I did a set of E7's a few years ago and this was the first rebuild for them, so far so good with the seats, they've been in service now for about 50,000 miles. Hopefully they'll go for twice that amount, they showed no signs of valve wear after a year's service when I pulled them off the first motor they were on.

I opened up my E7 heads to 1.60 on the exhaust side....4 years ago...no hardened seats installed. The machinist that did them said he was still into the induction hardening when he was done.............so far so good. I'm running a solid cam and everytime I adjust the valves they are good, no signs of exhaust valves sinking into the heads.......

I would have installed hardened seats but that time I said ...why not just cut the seats. I thought I would have seen one or rockers start getting tight on me but the gap stays good.

No seats.......

 
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Old Nov 10, 2007 | 05:04 AM
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Originally Posted by 2classics
I have an 85 truck 302 block. (roller ready?)
Would it be better to go with early 90s explorer
Explorers didn't offer a 302 till 1996, it was an option.

All 1991/95's are 4.0 Liter V6's.
 
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Old Nov 10, 2007 | 05:50 AM
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Originally Posted by flareside_thunder
You'll need some ARP bolts to get the windsor heads to bolt down to the 302......they're bout 40 bucks for the set and I'll be seeing how well they work tomorrow......GT-40's all day long just like Hemi said....might wanna port the exhaust ports a bit too to give you better flow...I gasket matched mine...check out my gallery to see the difference in the one that's been ported and the one that ain't....Luck

JR
I just put 351 heads on my 5.0, and I could not find conversion head bolts for less then a hundred bucks!! I ended up using some trickflow conversion step washers that ran about $35
 
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Old Nov 10, 2007 | 06:26 AM
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Originally Posted by s1120
I just put 351 heads on my 5.0, and I could not find conversion head bolts for less then a hundred bucks!! I ended up using some trickflow conversion step washers that ran about $35
Ditto, all you need is the aluminum head step washers(ARP, Edelbrock, Ford Racing,etc sell these), and then there are some who forego these as well and just use hardened washers. They're relying on the head bushings to locate the head.
 
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Old Nov 10, 2007 | 10:12 AM
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Not me I found these ARP bolts for UNDER 40 bucks....just gotta look a little harder...I didn't go with step washers because I was told by more than one machinist NOT to......here's the link. http://store.summitracing.com/partde...w=1&N=700+150+

On a softer note...how much better did your truck perform after the 351 heads were put on?

JR
 
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Old Nov 10, 2007 | 10:27 AM
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I've been using the step washers on my Canfields and a set of 351W E7's for years now with no ill effects.
 
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Old Nov 10, 2007 | 11:14 AM
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Originally Posted by flareside_thunder
On a softer note...how much better did your truck perform after the 351 heads were put on?

JR
Not sure. Its still sitting on the stand waiting to go in.

Probaly not the best choise but I had them on the shelf from another project. They are CNC ported, and Chevy size valves [1.94x1.60]
 
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