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ok i know atleasty one person is gonna say somthin smart about this but ive always run diesel oil. the shell rotela t is what ive always used and what we used at the shop for every thing.
It should be either 5w-30 or 10w-30. I always have used 10w-30, but I know places still do oil changes on these with 5w-30. I believe haynes says 10w-30 is prefered.
Mobil 1 is a great syn oil, but if the engine has never had synthetic and it has higher mileage, the synthetic oil might show some "new" leaks, (they have been there, but hidden.)
It should be 6 quarts with a filter. I have had mechanic shops not do this!!! On my old truck they only put 5qts in with a filter change???? Anyways a couple days later, I had to put in another qt!
It's hard to find and oil that is not at least semi-synthetic these days, and anything from Valvoline to Quakerstate to Mobil 1 will provide sufficient protection with regular oil changes. I run Quake 10w30 with Motocraft FL1A filter always.
I use Mobil 1 high mileage synthetic 10w40 and a motorcraft filter on my 5.8 with 130k. I recently changed over and it does not leak any more than it ever did.
Tom - king of off-topic posts, I love it Good question though, I have no clue.
EDIT: Good call Moore.
OP - I recently switched to using Synthetic oil on accident (don't ask) and my slightly leaky rear main became a real leaky rear main I'm gonna switch back on my next change to dino oil and hope maybe I can reverse the damage. I'm not too hopeful
It might worth having someone analyze your oil like Blackstone labs and see if its synthetic or dino before you do the change if the PO doesn't know whats in it.
Last edited by Skandocious; Nov 7, 2007 at 03:38 PM.
Dittos to the motocraft filter, worth it, around me its the same cheap price as fram.
I also agree, most oils are going to semi-synthetic. I have used Valvoline in a long tradition in my family and friends. Pick a name brand oil your truck doesn't know the difference and do your maintenence. Oil is cheap insurance.
I said "may" cause leaks, lol. Skan, I doubt going back will work. After you get that rear main fixed, throw synthetic in, its harder to find the regular stuff nowadays.
Now here's a question for y'all. Why are they going to synthetic? Manufactureres requiring it, mpg, picker engines with more sensors? Easier to make? The benefits?
Now here's a question for y'all. Why are they going to synthetic? Manufactureres requiring it, mpg, picker engines with more sensors? Easier to make? The benefits?
In a nutshell, its just a better oil. Has a higher heat tolerance and maintains lubricative properties in a wider array of situations than dino. Just google it and you can read all about it. Probably have something about it howstuffworks.com too, thats an awesome site
I've actually heard the argument both ways once at a Nascar race in the stands, a guy worked for Mobil was pushing mobil 1 and another guy use to work for some other oil company was pushing for non-synthetics. In the end both are good with frequent oil changes, but synthetic molecules are uniform and have higher heat tolerances and more and more manufacters are actully requiring it.
Just wondering if auto manf, like it because they can tout 5mo/5000mi betwen oil changes, or they can put lighter weight oil in etc.
I've actually heard the argument both ways once at a Nascar race in the stands, a guy worked for Mobil was pushing mobil 1 and another guy use to work for some other oil company was pushing for non-synthetics. In the end both are good with frequent oil changes, but synthetic molecules are uniform and have higher heat tolerances and more and more manufacters are actully requiring it.
Just wondering if auto manf, like it because they can tout 5mo/5000mi betwen oil changes, or they can put lighter weight oil in etc.
I run 5000 between changes on my dino oil... Always have.
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