I was told that I need to run a wire from the back of the alternator (stator) to the electric choke to make it work right. I am putting this on a 77 Ford F250 with 460 and it did not have electric choke. THe carb in question is a 4 barrel holley that was made in 1985.

Can someone confirm this before I do it?

 

I don't think it is recomended to run from back of alternator as you need constant 10V. I ran mine from inside the cab from the fuse box. I found one that is hot once the key is in 'ON' position and used that.

 

Yes, that is where you would hook it up. The S terminal is only hot when the engine is running. That is where the factory electric choke gets it's power. If you hook it up to ignition hot, the choke will start heating as soon as the key is turned. Don

 

This is correct. Use the stator (S) terminal, NOT a hot with key-on wire off the ignition. The 12VAC signal coming off the stator is about 6-7 volts RMS and is plenty to run the choke.

 

I agree the alt stator terminal.

 

That's what I did to mine. This is where the factory wire comes from as well.

 

I use low oil pressure cut out switches to hook up electric chokes.

 

12volts To The Electric Choke Will Burn Element In Choke Up Sooner Or Later.alt Circuit Will Work.its The White Wire With Black Tracer Stater Circuit,from Altenator. 7 To 9 Volts.

 

From the Edelbrock Carburetor FAQ;

How do I hook up my electric choke (voltage)?

A: The Electric choke on our Performer Series and AVS carburetors needs to be hooked to a “keyed” (while the key is in the on position) 12-volt power source, with a good ground. Verify there is no voltage when the key is in the off position. Do not connect the positive wire to the Ignition Coil, ballast resistor or Alternator.

http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive_...carb_faq.shtml

What burns up electric choke elements is no air flow through the choke housing with the element powered. The low oil pressure cut out switch only powers the element when the engine is running.

 

This is not completely correct. The choke actually gets 12 VAC (notice that is AC not DC) because it comes from the stator terminal of the alternator. If you stick your multimeter on the stator terminal and set it to DC volts, you will see 7 to 9 volts. But it's not because it is a true 7-9 volts DC. It's actually a 12 VAC signal that has an RMS of 7-9 volts.

The reason for this, if you're curious, is because the front-end circuitry of the alternator acts as a three-phase full-wave rectifier. The signal seen on the stator terminal acts like a sinusoidal waveform with three peaks per cycle. Your multimeter just sees the DC equivalent of this signal. The signal has a minumum of 0 V, and a maximum of 12 V. The multimeter just sees it as 7 - 9 V. The RMS value of a signal is also referred to as the "equivalent heat" - that is, the RMS voltage of an AC signal is the voltage it would take for a DC signal to generate the same amount of heat through the same resistance.

Now, whether or not you can feed a straight 12 V to the choke and have it last a long time, I don't know because I haven't tried. But the idea that you have to find a 7 - 9 volts DC to run to the choke is a misconception, because many people probe the stator terminal of the alternator and see that it says 7 - 9 volts DC and assume it is a true DC signal but it is not. It only looks that way because it is actually an AC signal with an RMS around 7 to 9 volts.

Either way: hook your electric choke up to the stator terminal of the alternator.

 

http://www.holley.com/data/Products/...199R8108-2.pdf

From Holley's Installation and adjustment Instructions

9. This carburetor is equipped with an electric choke. One short and one long wire
will be found in the enclosed parts pack. The short wire should be connected to
the negative (-) terminal on the choke cap and the other end secured to a
ground, such as under the head of one of the screws retaining the secondary
throttle diaphragm cover. The long wire should be secured to the positive (+)
terminal on the choke cap, with the other end connected to an ignition activated
12V source. The ignition coil is not a 12 volt source after cranking, it is a 7-9V
source after cranking. See Figure 6.
DANGER! OBSERVE CORRECT POLARITY WHEN CONNECTING ELECTRIC
CHOKE WIRES. CONNECTING THE POSITIVE (+) LEAD TO
GROUND, AND THE NEGATIVE (-) LEAD TO A 12V SOURCE WILL
RESULT IN A DIRECT SHORT AND COULD CAUSE A FIRE. IT IS
WISE TO BE SURE THAT THE 12V SOURCE SELECTED IS
FUSED.IF NOT, AN INLINE FUSE RATED AT 10 AMPS SHOULD BE
INSTALLED.

That is 12 volts DC.

 

Thanks for the link! The only reason I insisted on hooking to the stator terminal is because it is a handy hot-in-run-only power source. Also, Ford did it that way for years and years. There are certainly other ways of doing it, as you describe. I would like to add that I didn't say you couldn't use straight 12 volts DC - I said I personally hadn't tried it because I've always connected it to the stator terminal. 12 volts should work fine.

My point in my last post, was to clear up the misconception that the OP needs to hunt around the engine looking for 7 to 9 volts DC.

 

I have an aftermarket Holley on my 460 and the choke is connected to the stator. It has been hooked up like that from 4 years and works great. It worked great at -20 below zero & it works great here with 40s as the low. That is as said they came from the factory. Keep it simple.

 

my 86 5.8 has the factory wire coming from a "choke control solenoid"(lh rear of engine comp)little silver box -has e4tb 9c972 da as id#.

 

View of low oil pressure safety switch installed with wiring for electric choke. This switch is a Summit Racing Part # SUM-G1438 oil pressure safety switch used to shut off electric fuel pumps if the engine stops running.

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku