Which plug do I need?

MOTORCRAFT (MOT) - Suppressor Spark Plug PZT1F

<TABLE class=base-table style="WIDTH: 365px; HEIGHT: 79px"><TBODY><TR><TD></TD><TD style="PADDING-TOP: 5px" vAlign=top><TABLE class=base-table style="WIDTH: 359px; HEIGHT: 39px"><TBODY><TR style="PADDING-RIGHT: 3px; PADDING-LEFT: 3px; PADDING-BOTTOM: 3px; PADDING-TOP: 3px" height=0><TD width=260>or</TD><TD width=5></TD><TD width=140></TD></TR><TR><TD vAlign=top></TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE><TABLE class=base-table><TBODY><TR><TD vAlign=top align=middle rowSpan=2></TD><TD vAlign=top><TABLE class=base-table style="FONT-SIZE: 11px" width="100%"><TBODY><TR height=1><TD width="50%"></TD><TD widht="50%"></TD></TR><TR><TD class=greenLink colSpan=2>MOTORCRAFT - Suppressor Spark Plug </TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>SP462
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or a

PZT2FE

Which one?
On a 5.4 3V in a 04 F150

 

I believe there's a TSB that calls out the PZT1F for replacements. PZT2FE I believe are the stock plugs in a 04

 

I thought the PZT2F was stock replacement and PZT2FE was updated and the PZT1F is what's suposed to be used, but what's the SP462?

I just want to change my plugs with what's right!

Anyone know for sure?

 

SP462 is a box of (4) of the PZT1F plugs. Don't know why they assign so dang many numbers. So you will need 2 of the SP462s for 8 plugs in all. Or, to confuse matters, you can buy 8 of the PZT1Fs. Confused more? Sorry. You are correct that the PZT2FE was the updated plug. No one has ever been able to confirm for me but it is my understanding that the plug was slightly redesigned to tighten up the crimp made between the threaded portion and the ground sleeve/strap that seems to get stuck. The E, I was told, is for enhanced. Later, Ford offered the PZT1F (SP462) as an acceptable alternative that is one temperature range cooler. This is what I installed a few weeks ago at 111,000 miles. The truck runs great. I doubt you can go wrong either way but the very latest specs I could find before purchasing the replacement plugs called for the PZT1F (2 boxes of SP462).

So is this coming weekend when you're taking the plunge into the plug change?

DMAC

 

Ok....
PZT1F is the replacement plug for ALL new 5.4Ls?
I want to make sure I get the right thing, and need them soon...
I see O'Reilly auto parts has the PZT1F for $6.49 each, but I had to look under a 06 F150 to find it, this should be right?

 

Yes. From 04 through 08, the 3V 5.4L accepts the PZT1F. My truck is a 2005. That price at O'Reilly is great. Try buying those from the dealer and they will be over $20 per plug. Did you find the nickel anti-seize OK?


DMAC

 

Thanks a lot for the help. I won't be doing the change this week end, because duck season opens, but I have less then 2K miles to go till I reach 100K, and any free week end I have between now and 100K, I will be doing it.

I know I could get the nickel anti seize(off the internet) but I'd like to find it somewhere local for less than $25. I'd buy it off of someone on here, but noone seems to want to. I need to get that, and I can get the socket at sears(just haven't gone lately).

Again, thanks for the help.

 

Well, I'll let you in on what I decided after thinking about it too long. I could not find the nickel formula locally either. I went to the Permatex web site and reviewed the MSD sheets for both the regular anti-sieze and the nickel anti-sieze. I know. Probably too much time spent right there. The differences were minor overall and, as someone who works in statistics, I decided the regular anti-sieze was just fine for me, especially considering it is designed and marketed for spark plug applications. In addition, if Permatex knew that the formula is incompatible with certain head alloys, I believe they would indicate that on the packaging. Here are my conclusions (right or wrong):

1) regular anti-sieze is good for 1600 degrees versus 2400 degrees for the nickel. Is 2400 degrees necessary in the combustion chamber? Perhaps, but it seems relative to me. I don't know the actual combustion temperature but 1600 versus 2400 didn't justify it for me.
2) nickel is reported to contain no copper which would be important in preventing galling from metal incompatibility with the aluminum head.
3) but, according to the MSD sheet, the amount of copper in the regular compound is negligible.
4) I don't intend to pull these plugs again until 200,000 miles. I would say that by then, I will be ready for a new truck. (I know. That one's personal and doesn't help anyone else who reads this).

So, I couldn't justify the cost or the inconvenience of finding the nickel anti-sieze. Does that make me a bad backyard mechanic? I suppose I could have just asked Ford why this one was spec'd but I didn't. Good luck with the duck hunt and with the eventual plug swap. I think the Kroil is the whole key and you already plan to abide by that.

DMAC

 

I could easily get the regular anti seize, I have some copper anti seize, and the only difference between all of them is the amount of metal or type inside. The nickle anti seize has a lot of nickel compaired to the grease, where as the regular is mostly grease(which is why it's cheap).

I'm like you, I've considered the regular stuff and almost picked some up.
Only thing is, I think it's very possible I'll be changing plugs again at 200K miles and keep it till it falls apart or I win the lotto.

WHY COULDN'T THIS BE EASY!

 

I can't tell for sure, but you do realize the anti seize goes on the shank and into the firing chamber? It needs to be nickel, the 2400 degree or you are whizzing in the wind.

Watch this video.

mms://multimedia.ford.com/seopts/Tech26_250k.wmv

 

Well, maybe I just whizzed all over my legs then! I've seen the video. The gap between the ground sleeve of the plug and the head is miniscule. The tolerances are pretty tight. Just big enough for a little bit of carbon to build up in the space causing the ground sleeve to stick in the bore unless it is dissolved with a solvent. I watched the tech in the video smear a tiny amount of the high temp anti-sieze on the ground sleeve before installation. Ordinarily, I would work under the premise that a higher temp limit is good insurance. When I did a brief online search to determine the temperature of in the combustion chamber, I found, at the high end, 400 degrees C for the chamber itself (the temp of the metal) and 500 degrees C for the upper end of the exhaust charge. The actual burn temperature is close to 2000 degrees C. That said, I agree that to be safe, one should follow the TSB/video to the letter. For my money, I was satisfied that a 1600 degree tolerance was plenty. Maybe in about 50,000 miles, I'll pull out a couple of plugs and see what the Permatex looks like. I'm guessing (I know, that is bad to do) that it will be just fine.

DMAC

 

Yes, I understand where the anti seize goes.
I've read, hundreds of threads, watched that vid a few times, and read the TSB.....
I know it'd be nice to use the nickle stuff, but I believe the regular "might" work, but I'm undecided.

Thanks for the help guys.

 

It's a pretty sad state of affairs when we spend this much time and attention worrying about a spark plug change. I hope they get a redesign on the plug, but then, if they do, they will probably be $35 per plug. It's a strange world we live in.

 

You can say that again. I absolutely agree.

DMAC

 

I had a nightmare the other night that I was attempting to change mine and, "Crack". I woke up in a sweat.......LOL