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1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

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Old Nov 4, 2007 | 08:39 PM
  #1  
F100man's Avatar
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From: Grant Park Il.
Doorskins

Who sells the best inner and outer door skins for the 56 f100?
 
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Old Nov 4, 2007 | 11:08 PM
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I bought mine from Mid Fifty. It is only the lower part of the door. Here's what I did:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gal...&albumid=25135
 
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Old Nov 5, 2007 | 06:09 AM
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Randy, Nice job and excellent photo's. Looks like Im in for some work but sure feel better after seeing the photo's. Thanks again
 
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Old Nov 5, 2007 | 06:43 AM
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From: Ringwood NJ
Originally Posted by Randy Jack
I bought mine from Mid Fifty. It is only the lower part of the door. Here's what I did:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gal...&albumid=25135
Same here!!
 
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Old Nov 5, 2007 | 06:46 AM
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From: Ringwood NJ
Originally Posted by Randy Jack
I bought mine from Mid Fifty. It is only the lower part of the door. Here's what I did:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gal...&albumid=25135
oops double post
 
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Old Nov 5, 2007 | 07:00 AM
  #6  
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Man Randy, that is an awesome how-to! Being new here I like going through peoples galleries just to look, this is the first through yours and there is alot of great info there. Thank you for sharing.
 
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Old Nov 5, 2007 | 05:46 PM
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From: Middle Gawga
Randy Jack - Nice job on the door skins. I have a couple of questions. For the outer skin it appears you used a combination of spring clecos and magnets to bond the repair skin to the orginal door. Is there a reason you didn't use additional clecos (on the upper half) instead of the magnets? I was wondering if the magnets had enough "pull" to make a tight bond? How did you fill the holes after the clecos were removed? I assume there is a cure time before the clecos can be removed? I never used the bonding material but I've heard good things about it. Can it be sanded easily?
 
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Old Nov 6, 2007 | 08:57 AM
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Originally Posted by brucelee
Randy Jack - Nice job on the door skins. I have a couple of questions. For the outer skin it appears you used a combination of spring clecos and magnets to bond the repair skin to the orginal door. Is there a reason you didn't use additional clecos (on the upper half) instead of the magnets? I was wondering if the magnets had enough "pull" to make a tight bond? How did you fill the holes after the clecos were removed? I assume there is a cure time before the clecos can be removed? I never used the bonding material but I've heard good things about it. Can it be sanded easily?
I could have used clecoes on the upper skin/doubler interface, but mostly I wanted the skins to fair together well. The magnets are pretty strong and did that well. There's no reason you couldn't use clecoes there as well.

I filled the cleco holes with body filler when I smoothed the door face.

Yes, I let the panel adhesive set up completely before I broke down the setup. That's why I sprayed the clecoes with WD-40 (as a release agent), so they wouldn't get bonded into the holes and I could remove them later. I also could have used pop rivets, then ground the heads off after cure. Lots of ways to "skin this cat".

None of the stuff in my gallery albums is intended to describe THE way to do anything. They are all just how I did it. Feel free to do it better. Then make a gallery album and add to the collective wisdom here. We are all in this together.
 

Last edited by Randy Jack; Nov 6, 2007 at 09:03 AM.
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Old Nov 6, 2007 | 09:10 AM
  #9  
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Randy,
I like the addhesive idea and will look into it but I was wondering how you feel about welding the skins on. I appreciate your photo's and willingness to share your experience. Thankyou------------Darren
 
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Old Nov 6, 2007 | 09:24 AM
  #10  
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Originally Posted by F100man
Randy,
I like the addhesive idea and will look into it but I was wondering how you feel about welding the skins on. I appreciate your photo's and willingness to share your experience. Thankyou------------Darren
I'm new to welding and have done numerous patch panels, but I didn't like the idea of welding across the unsupported door skin. I'm not good enough at controlling warpage yet. I did weld the back pan and the edges of the skin patch over the panel return. I also welded the skin to the back pan. I knew the adhesive would lay down nice and it did. Some hot rod TV shows said that body shops use adhesive now instead of welding, so I decided to try it.

So, basically, I didn't weld it because I checkened out.
 

Last edited by Randy Jack; Nov 6, 2007 at 09:27 AM.
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Old Nov 6, 2007 | 02:39 PM
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One thing I found when bonding the lower door panels was that I must have painted before it fully "cured" because I had a hairline form along the bond. I had formed an overlapping/offset flange joint between the old skin and the new door patch panel and this left a 1/16" groove. I left the adhesive in this groove and then did my prep work for paint. I had to remove the paint down to bare metal and remove the adhesive from the groove and repaint. Not a fun time when you think you are finished. Be aware of the cure time on the bonding agent. Not sure this is clear but FWIW.
 
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