Stroker kit
Hotshot
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 11,141
Likes: 25
From: south louisiana
I read things dead on. 
I can't help it when you try to put down something then get called on it. 
Maybe you need to take more time to comprehend things you wrote. Are you that slow in this area, or did I miss something? My build? Which one ? Now, you want to contribute something relevent to this thread, you haven't yet.
Last edited by baddad457; Nov 5, 2007 at 09:29 PM.
Cargo Master
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 2,931
Likes: 12
From: SW Michigan
torque increase from stroker
BD457, the 80 to 100 lb-ft increase is there, you're not looking in the right place. Rather than looking at the peak torque in the Motor's manual, you need to dig up and read Mercury's testing from 1965. Look at the torque values at 1000 rpm, and at 1500, and 2000. Thats where you'll find the big fat torque increase, right where a pickup truck will feel it and love it. It isn't just about peak torque, but about area under the curve, and the shape of that curve. Stroking an FE gives you lots more of everything a truck needs. DinosaurFan, on work's cast off old 'puter
Hotshot
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 11,141
Likes: 25
From: south louisiana
Originally Posted by Dino@his Dad's
Stroking an FE gives you lots more of everything a truck needs. DinosaurFan, on work's cast off old 'puter
FE "Freakin Expensive"
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 6,461
Likes: 4
From: Smith Mountain Lake, VA
Originally Posted by baddad457
I read things dead on. I can't help it when you try to put down something then get called on it. Maybe you need to take more time to comprehend things you wrote. Are you that slow in this area, or did I miss something? My build? Which one ? Now, you want to contribute something relevent to this thread, you haven't yet. There's NO SENSE in Trying to Match Wits With an Un-Armed Man !!!
Enough Said!!!
RJ
Thread Starter
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More Turbo
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 513
Likes: 0
From: Alberta
Dino-Haven't seen any E85 stations around here
My 390 never seemed to have enough torque on the hills. If I could get a decent run at them I'd do all right but otherwise I was downshifting. This is with a 3.73 in the rear, pulling a trailer that weighs around 4500lbs. Everyone is always ranting about the power their 390 has and I was just never that happy with mine.
Specs
1970 F250 4x4 Crewcab Weight~6800lbs
390, NV4500, Dana 24, Dana 44/60 (was np435)
Engine fully rebuilt 40,000miles ago
full machine package including balancing
KB 150 pistons
Crane 901cam (tried comp 268H first)
stock D2TE? heads with pocket porting
stock 4V intake
600 holley
pertronix conversion and coil
headers
dual exhaust
Are the KB150 pistons only available in one compression ratio? Its been a while but I don't seem to recall ever being able to increase my timing enough to detonate... I can measure it and figure out the CR when its apart right?
When I did the 5 speed it would barely pull 5th even empty. Maybe I'll change the gears back to 4.10s (or deeper?)
What about the intake? Heads?
The reason I'm thinking about the stroker is I had oil getting in my antifreeze?!So it needs to be torn down anyway...
My 390 never seemed to have enough torque on the hills. If I could get a decent run at them I'd do all right but otherwise I was downshifting. This is with a 3.73 in the rear, pulling a trailer that weighs around 4500lbs. Everyone is always ranting about the power their 390 has and I was just never that happy with mine.
Specs
1970 F250 4x4 Crewcab Weight~6800lbs
390, NV4500, Dana 24, Dana 44/60 (was np435)
Engine fully rebuilt 40,000miles ago
full machine package including balancing
KB 150 pistons
Crane 901cam (tried comp 268H first)
stock D2TE? heads with pocket porting
stock 4V intake
600 holley
pertronix conversion and coil
headers
dual exhaust
Are the KB150 pistons only available in one compression ratio? Its been a while but I don't seem to recall ever being able to increase my timing enough to detonate... I can measure it and figure out the CR when its apart right?
When I did the 5 speed it would barely pull 5th even empty. Maybe I'll change the gears back to 4.10s (or deeper?)
What about the intake? Heads?
The reason I'm thinking about the stroker is I had oil getting in my antifreeze?!So it needs to be torn down anyway...
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 1,834
Likes: 260
From: Piney Woods of East Texas
A compression test will tell you about what your CR is. Oil in antifreeze is not a good thing.
What altitude are you using this at?
Yes a gear change may be needed, but being a 4x4 that makes it more $$$.
What altitude are you using this at?
Yes a gear change may be needed, but being a 4x4 that makes it more $$$.
Thread Starter
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More Turbo
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 513
Likes: 0
From: Alberta
I thought a compression test would just tell you if it has compression, not how much or the ratio.
I know the oil in the antifreeze is bad, I haven't looked into it yet
Altitude is 3600ft
I have a set of 4.10s for the truck but I may go deeper now that I have the overdrive
I know the oil in the antifreeze is bad, I haven't looked into it yet
Altitude is 3600ft
I have a set of 4.10s for the truck but I may go deeper now that I have the overdrive
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Posting Guru
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 2,117
Likes: 0
From: Evanston, WY
Originally Posted by baddad457
I never said it didn't, I was simply pointing out the $2000 cost for that extra torque, when a 390 has plenty to start with.
You make an excellent point, stroking an FE is pricey, but if he was going to replace pistons and rings anyway, the real cost of the stroker is probably around $1200, compared to a normal rebuild. So it's not as bad as it seems.
-Scouder
Also, both of you guys need to back away from the brink for a minute, before somebody vaporlocks.
We are all friends here.
Last edited by Scouder; Nov 6, 2007 at 10:05 AM.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 1,834
Likes: 260
From: Piney Woods of East Texas
You can back figure it. I ask this question earlier in the FE section. I requested a certain CR when I had my machine work done years a go, and was wondering if there was a way to check it. Compression / 14.7(sea level) = CR ball park. If you know what you atmospheric pressure is you can fine tune the 14.7. This is done with all plugs removed, and throttle wide open.
Posting Guru
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 2,117
Likes: 0
From: Evanston, WY
Originally Posted by blue68f100
You can back figure it. I ask this question earlier in the FE section. I requested a certain CR when I had my machine work done years a go, and was wondering if there was a way to check it. Compression / 14.7(sea level) = CR ball park. If you know what you atmospheric pressure is you can fine tune the 14.7. This is done with all plugs removed, and throttle wide open.
Back figuring compression is one of those things we all experience that looks good on paper but falls short in practice.
-Scouder
Hotshot
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 11,141
Likes: 25
From: south louisiana
Originally Posted by RapidRuss
There's NO SENSE in Trying to Match Wits With an Un-Armed Man !!!
Enough Said!!!
RJ
Enough Said!!!
RJ
You have a habit of making statements that have no meaning or bearing on the issue at hand.
Thread Starter
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More Turbo
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 513
Likes: 0
From: Alberta
Originally Posted by baddad457
Especially when it's obvious you're arguing with yourself. You have a habit of making statements that have no meaning or bearing on the issue at hand.
You have a habit of making statements that have no meaning or bearing on the issue at hand. Wow all this sure is helping me out with my problem
Senior User
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 355
Likes: 1
I don't - and can't get into a commercial p'ing contest on the forum here - - but I've seen that kit advertised....and wondered whether they've ever really built or balanced one of these at all. They ALL take at least two slugs of mallory to go neutral, meaning that they'll need to add $100-150 to the balancing cost, which is already noted as costing $200 extra down in the fine print. You end up paying nearly as much as it would cost to get real brand name stuff, instead of cheaper yet knockoffs of already inexpensive parts (Hawk sounds like Eagle, CAT sounds like Scat, etc ).
The steel cranks are the same ones I buy in bulk, and actually come from RPM. They seem to be OK forgings, but are dimensionally marginal. Its not that they are all bent, or all tapered, or all out of round. Its that they are all some misc combination of some or all of the above. Not consistant. Since I've run the Scat cast cranks at a well documented 750+HP I can see no reason to use anything else in a moderate application. I take the steel ones, invest in remachining them, and offer them as an upgrade for those applications where they make sense - road race & endurance.
The steel cranks are the same ones I buy in bulk, and actually come from RPM. They seem to be OK forgings, but are dimensionally marginal. Its not that they are all bent, or all tapered, or all out of round. Its that they are all some misc combination of some or all of the above. Not consistant. Since I've run the Scat cast cranks at a well documented 750+HP I can see no reason to use anything else in a moderate application. I take the steel ones, invest in remachining them, and offer them as an upgrade for those applications where they make sense - road race & endurance.
Last edited by Barry_R; Nov 9, 2007 at 06:11 PM.
