EGR connector?
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New User
Joined: Jun 2002
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From: Central USA
EGR connector?
Okay... i have a pipe that comes off the exhaust between the cats and i think that it is the return for the EGR, but i am not sure. The problem is that it rusted at the connector to the exhaust... and it looks like it is going to be a bitch to replace this pipe. The question, who has delt with this problem, how, and what do you suggest?
-Necro
1993 Ford F-150 4x4
4.9l (300ci), Automatic
w/Towing Package
-Necro
1993 Ford F-150 4x4
4.9l (300ci), Automatic
w/Towing Package
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Joined: Dec 2001
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From: Southeast FLA
EGR connector?
[updated:LAST EDITED ON 08-Sep-02 AT 04:28 PM (EST)]That's an air tube from your air pump to put fresh air into the exhaust so the second catalytic burns off the hydrocarbons better. (or something to that effect)
In my gallery is a 'fix' that a Monro exhaust shop - or maybe it was Meineke? - did to mine. I think they did some welding and used a high-temp flexible tube for a fix that reduces the loading at the weld.
Whoops - I just checked and the picture isn't there anymore... let me look to see if I have it.
In my gallery is a 'fix' that a Monro exhaust shop - or maybe it was Meineke? - did to mine. I think they did some welding and used a high-temp flexible tube for a fix that reduces the loading at the weld.
Whoops - I just checked and the picture isn't there anymore... let me look to see if I have it.
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From: Southeast FLA
EGR connector?
[updated:LAST EDITED ON 08-Sep-02 AT 04:32 PM (EST)]http://www.countryvue.com/LinkedToItems/bushing.jpg
It looks like they welded a new small pipe and put on the tubing.
My question is what do people do with the air tube when the get custom exhaust work doen and get rid of both catalytics? I know it would make a strange sound if just left disconnected, and there doesn't seem to be much use in refabricating a new exhaust inlet for an air tube that really won't do anything without the catalytic.
It looks like they welded a new small pipe and put on the tubing.
My question is what do people do with the air tube when the get custom exhaust work doen and get rid of both catalytics? I know it would make a strange sound if just left disconnected, and there doesn't seem to be much use in refabricating a new exhaust inlet for an air tube that really won't do anything without the catalytic.
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EGR connector?
I don't know all the specifics, but the previous post is correct. The pipe is for the air injection system...on the later models the air pump does one of three things: 1) air to the head 2) air to the 2nd cat 3) air to atmoshere. Under full load, cold engine, or idle condition the diverter valve "dumps" the air to the atmoshere. Somewhere between cold and normal operating temps, the diverter valve switches to air to head. Once the engine is up to normal temps the diverter valve switches to the cat. Damn emissions...
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Joined: Feb 2002
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From: Coupeville WA
EGR connector?
I had the same problem on my E-150 van. I cut the pipe back to just past the valve and used plumbing pipes to fabricate a "rube goldberg" contraption to replace the rotted pipe. If I remember correctly, it was a 3/8" threaded pipe fitting that went into the exhaust pipe. Sealed with that magical substance JB WELD. Stunk for a few miles even after it was set up for 24 hours but has caused no problems and I don't have the loud blatting sound from the exhaust.
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Joined: Sep 2002
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From: kansas
EGR connector?
>My question is what do people do with the air tube when the
>get custom exhaust work doen and get rid of both catalytics?
> I know it would make a strange sound if just left
>disconnected, and there doesn't seem to be much use in
>refabricating a new exhaust inlet for an air tube that
>really won't do anything without the catalytic.
When I yanked my cats I left the line open at first. Sounded like a seriously fragged alternator bearing. So I cut the anti-reversion valve out of the old tube and connected it to the air pump switching valve with short 90 degree rubber hose so that it points down. It's as quiet as normal now. Also without anti-reversion valve it ran terribly. I think it was allowing all the air to vent instead of putting some of it into the head. Just a personal theory, could be wrong. But runs much better with valve in place.
>get custom exhaust work doen and get rid of both catalytics?
> I know it would make a strange sound if just left
>disconnected, and there doesn't seem to be much use in
>refabricating a new exhaust inlet for an air tube that
>really won't do anything without the catalytic.
When I yanked my cats I left the line open at first. Sounded like a seriously fragged alternator bearing. So I cut the anti-reversion valve out of the old tube and connected it to the air pump switching valve with short 90 degree rubber hose so that it points down. It's as quiet as normal now. Also without anti-reversion valve it ran terribly. I think it was allowing all the air to vent instead of putting some of it into the head. Just a personal theory, could be wrong. But runs much better with valve in place.
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From: Southeast FLA
EGR connector?
heathdaily, thanks so much for answering my question.
But i'm still a bit confused with your description - I understand that you left the switching valve in (after removing it), so you basically connected some kind of tube to it, and pointed that tube down?
Also, where did you get the 90-degree tube? What diameter?
I would think you'd still hear it when it from outside of the truck switched to vent, but maybe the shorter tube silences the sound somehow?
Thanks again,
But i'm still a bit confused with your description - I understand that you left the switching valve in (after removing it), so you basically connected some kind of tube to it, and pointed that tube down?
Also, where did you get the 90-degree tube? What diameter?
I would think you'd still hear it when it from outside of the truck switched to vent, but maybe the shorter tube silences the sound somehow?
Thanks again,
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From: USA
EGR connector?
I had the same problem, the air pipe rotted away right at the cat. I had 2 inches left off the cat. i took an extra piece of heater hose and connected it over the piece coming down and the pice coming out of the cat. Works great for me.
1987 F150 2wd, 4.9L, 4 spd manual
3" body lift with 31's
178,000 and counting
1987 F150 2wd, 4.9L, 4 spd manual
3" body lift with 31's
178,000 and counting
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From: kansas
EGR connector?
Sorry for the confusing answer.
What I'm talking about are two separate valves. The first has air piped in from the air pump, and sends it to either the head or the cat. My chilton (which I've learned not to trust too far) calls this the "Switching Valve". It's the black plastic peice near the front of the head.
The second sits inline on the hose running from the switching valve to the cat, right where it turns from rubber to steel. The chilton calls this the "Air Check Valve". It's just a little steel pod on the line. It's purpose is to prevent exhaust from backing up the line. (there's also one on the line to the head)
What I did was remove the line from the switching vavle to the cats, which included the air check valve. Then I cut the steel part of the line right after the air check valve, and the rubber line before the air check valve. The rubber line had a 90 degree bend right before the air check valve and I kept that. Then I hose clamped the rubber side of the line back to the switching valve. With the 90 degree hose this points the air check valve down.
As to the noise all I can say is it's quiet. Maybe the air check valve works like a little muffler?
Anywho, hope that clears it up for you. If not ask again, I'm happy to be helpin'.
What I'm talking about are two separate valves. The first has air piped in from the air pump, and sends it to either the head or the cat. My chilton (which I've learned not to trust too far) calls this the "Switching Valve". It's the black plastic peice near the front of the head.
The second sits inline on the hose running from the switching valve to the cat, right where it turns from rubber to steel. The chilton calls this the "Air Check Valve". It's just a little steel pod on the line. It's purpose is to prevent exhaust from backing up the line. (there's also one on the line to the head)
What I did was remove the line from the switching vavle to the cats, which included the air check valve. Then I cut the steel part of the line right after the air check valve, and the rubber line before the air check valve. The rubber line had a 90 degree bend right before the air check valve and I kept that. Then I hose clamped the rubber side of the line back to the switching valve. With the 90 degree hose this points the air check valve down.
As to the noise all I can say is it's quiet. Maybe the air check valve works like a little muffler?
Anywho, hope that clears it up for you. If not ask again, I'm happy to be helpin'.
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Joined: Dec 2001
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From: Southeast FLA
EGR connector?
Now *that's* a descriptive answer! Thanks!
I won't really know the routing and the "Air Check Valve" until I go out and take a look at it, but I am familiar enough with the rest to envision it.
Best, and thanks again,
I won't really know the routing and the "Air Check Valve" until I go out and take a look at it, but I am familiar enough with the rest to envision it.
Best, and thanks again,
Elder User
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 504
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From: Saddle Brook United State
EGR connector?
Hi,Here is my two cents, On your 93 there is what is called a diverter valve, it does several things as one of the previous posts said. Ford has several different valves both one part as yours and valves made of two valves
these predated the one part valve. If I understand you the air injection line from the diverter valve broke at the cat(s). This is not uncommon. There are kits to repair this problem. The broken line ( steel tube on my 90 EFI ) injects air into the cats to burn the hydrocarbons and if you have a state emisions test you will need this connected
. If you don't have an emisions inspection then just remove the line and PLUG both ends , one at the cat ( so the exaust doesn't blow out) and one from the diverter( so the noise of rushing air doesn't drive you crazy). You said you have dual cats so there might be a fitting on the cats you can remove the broken line from ( No body said this was going to be EASY:-staun )and replace it. Contact your local parts store or look on the net for a replacement.Bob/ stractor
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