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Automatic sluggish in drive

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Old Nov 8, 2007 | 09:43 PM
  #16  
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masterbeavis
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From: Eldorado Ca. USA
If your converter was locked up, your truck would stall. If you put a torque converter with a higher stall in it, you will create more heat and loss of some driveability. If you are trying to race, these are good for getting the motor up to is power band more quickly. For these old trucks, and with most of our type of driving, a TC with a low stall speed, like from an RV would be the best.

Stupid questions, to make sure I understand. When the transmission is in the D detent on the transmission (three clicks from park, ignoring whats on the column), the transmission slips, (or is in second gear). Does the transmission shift at all? or stay in that gear? When its in that detent, how many clicks do you have left when you move the shifter all the way to the floor? Does neutral act as neutral?

Did the truck always act like this, or was there something that happened, then it started acting funny?
 

Last edited by masterbeavis; Nov 8, 2007 at 09:51 PM.
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Old Nov 9, 2007 | 09:14 AM
  #17  
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From: S. Jersey
Pretty much my main question is why is the transmission so responsive if I start out in 1 as opposed to starting off in D which feels like the trans in slipping? Is it the fact that by manually shifting it into 1st gear you're bypassing the vacuum module which may be the culprit while the truck is in drive? I am going to try and mess with it this weekend so I hope I'll have some results to report. Yes, I did make sure the trans was shifted into it's proper gear while evaluating. Overall the trans works fine. I pulled a loaded utility trailer (and my truck was loaded too) 300 miles without any problems.

Just curious why the trans is more responsive in 1 or 2 as opposed to drive and if I can spread out my shift points a little. Every truck I've owned was a manual so it just may be me.

JR
 
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Old Nov 9, 2007 | 01:37 PM
  #18  
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Mil1ion
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what people are trying to relate you to is this.

The D position as you see it may in fact be 2 nd gear.

Instead of saying letter like D ... try 2 detents left of the gear shift from L or 1st gear.

or 2 detents right of Park.

There may be something binding .

you could always crawl under the truck remove the shifter rod from the trans and with the rear wheels off the ground..try shifting the lever by hand to verify 1st/ 2nd /3rd gears.

 
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Old Nov 9, 2007 | 10:10 PM
  #19  
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masterbeavis
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From: Eldorado Ca. USA
Originally Posted by headhoncho
Pretty much my main question is why is the transmission so responsive if I start out in 1 as opposed to starting off in D which feels like the trans in slipping? Is it the fact that by manually shifting it into 1st gear you're bypassing the vacuum module which may be the culprit while the truck is in drive? I am going to try and mess with it this weekend so I hope I'll have some results to report. Yes, I did make sure the trans was shifted into it's proper gear while evaluating. Overall the trans works fine. I pulled a loaded utility trailer (and my truck was loaded too) 300 miles without any problems.

Just curious why the trans is more responsive in 1 or 2 as opposed to drive and if I can spread out my shift points a little. Every truck I've owned was a manual so it just may be me.

JR
Once you get the truck up to speed, does third gear work OK? Does it shift at all once you get moving(when the trans is acting like its slipping), and are in D? If you have a freind or a buddy who has, or did own a ford with an auto transmission, have him drive yours, and you drive his, so you can compare notes. Look in your local paper for a coupon for a free transmission diagnosis/test drive, and have them take a look at it.

Before you fool with anything more, I would double check your vacuum lines going to your transmission. Buy, borrow or steal a vacuum gauge, hook it up to the line that goes to your modulator, confirm there is full engine vacuum going down there while the engine is running. If there isn't, run a new line. Under the hood, follow the large vacuum line going to the brake power booster, trace it back to the engine. That fitting on the motor is typically where the vacuum line for the transmission starts. It should come off the motor, and connect to a small metal tube on the back passenger side of the engine. Thinking about it, I would bet a dollar that if that is not hooked up, the transmission thinks its supposed to be in third gear. I have forgotten to hook that line up before, and this is the exact problem I had, that you are describing.
 

Last edited by masterbeavis; Nov 9, 2007 at 10:20 PM.
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Old Nov 9, 2007 | 10:23 PM
  #20  
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Mil1ion
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see the illustration

http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i7...VacuumHose.jpg
 
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Old Nov 10, 2007 | 12:40 AM
  #21  
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FESTER1st
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You guys are Awesome in here! I haven't had this much entertainment since my grandmother sang Baby Got Back at kareoke.

I'm still leaning on miss aligned linkage for slugish. To check the modulator suck on the end of the hose and you shouldn't get any air in your mouth or a vacumm pump works better.
 
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