1989 won't start
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 835
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1989 won't start
Hi,
89, 3.0L shorty -
Last night, tried to start it, but all I get is a single Click
Today, replaced the battery, (new and fully charged) and same single click.
The click is coming from the switch/solenoid that is right next to the battery.
so, my question is, is this a common part to fail? it is the original unit on an 18 year old van, but so is the starter, and the TFI module.
I had noticed in the summer, that once in a blue moon, you'd go to turn the key, and you'd have nothing, but I don't recall a click...
I tried cleaning all the contacts with my battery brush, etc...
I guess I can confirm this by testing with my meter across the switch when the key is turned to start, and if I don't get 12V, I know that is the problem, right? or is there another better way?
does the starter have it's own solenoid as well? I don't want to start replacing parts and guessing...
Note - this is the same sound as when I have a dead battery, but not rapid clicks - just one.
anyone come across this? the part itself also said to only replace it with an OEM part, as they say using 3rd party units could damage the Computer, etc... true?
Thanks to all
Have a nice day :-)
89, 3.0L shorty -
Last night, tried to start it, but all I get is a single Click
Today, replaced the battery, (new and fully charged) and same single click.
The click is coming from the switch/solenoid that is right next to the battery.
so, my question is, is this a common part to fail? it is the original unit on an 18 year old van, but so is the starter, and the TFI module.
I had noticed in the summer, that once in a blue moon, you'd go to turn the key, and you'd have nothing, but I don't recall a click...
I tried cleaning all the contacts with my battery brush, etc...
I guess I can confirm this by testing with my meter across the switch when the key is turned to start, and if I don't get 12V, I know that is the problem, right? or is there another better way?
does the starter have it's own solenoid as well? I don't want to start replacing parts and guessing...
Note - this is the same sound as when I have a dead battery, but not rapid clicks - just one.
anyone come across this? the part itself also said to only replace it with an OEM part, as they say using 3rd party units could damage the Computer, etc... true?
Thanks to all
Have a nice day :-)
Thread Starter
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 835
Likes: 0
I forgot to mention that when it happened before in the summer (where I'd turn the key, and nothing, no click), I'd try it again, and it was fine... I don't know if it's a related problem or not.
Thanks,
Bob
Thanks,
Bob
Thread Starter
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 835
Likes: 0
yeap - starter relay it was! - I ended up buying the Motorcraft, since it was only $30, and I figured that I got 18 years out of the first one, so I might as well stick with OEM in this case...
To anyone that has had the same problem - simple test is to just use a jumper wire from the pos of the battery to the other side of the relay (where the starter wire is)
If you hear the starter, it's the relay - if nothing, it's the starter...
Easiest repair I think I ever did on this van :-)
Thanks Lv2race...
Bob
To anyone that has had the same problem - simple test is to just use a jumper wire from the pos of the battery to the other side of the relay (where the starter wire is)
If you hear the starter, it's the relay - if nothing, it's the starter...
Easiest repair I think I ever did on this van :-)
Thanks Lv2race...
Bob
Laughing Gas
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 1,227
Likes: 42
From: The OC
Starters are not too bad. My daughter was stranded about 10 miles from home, I got lucky there was a Kragen nearby and they had a starter. Took about a half hour with a flashlight in the dark.
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Posting Guru
Joined: Aug 2007
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From: Portland, Oregon
i havn't changed my starter, but IMO it would be more of a hassle to do than hard... on the 3.0 its right there under the car...
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Elder User
Joined: Dec 2006
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From: Kitchener,Ontario,Canada
Just for reference, if the relay is not the problem, get an asistant to operate the ignition while you tap the starter casing with a broomhandle or other wooden item. The vibration will often cause the brushes to make contact & Zippo .... up she'll fire!!!
It does not fix the problem though, but gets you home.
ATB Aeroman.
It does not fix the problem though, but gets you home.
ATB Aeroman.
Last edited by Aeroman59; Oct 30, 2007 at 04:22 PM. Reason: update
Posting Guru
Joined: Jun 1999
Posts: 1,642
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From: Northern California
It's a good idea to keep a spare (new) starter relay in a safe spot, in case you ever need one. I've taken it when I've traveled with my Aerostar in the past, as my stash of possible roadside emergencies ect. (Spare upper and lower radiator hoses, a slice of heater hose, new sepentine belt and PS belt ect.)
What happens is those relays, over time, heat cycles ect. sometimes will freeze up internally. The contacts either stick in an open or closed position, in both instances the Aerostar won't start.
Ford used those relays on a ton of various cars and pick-ups over the years. They vary in appearence, some have a one wire connection, some have a two wire set up (the small wires on the top of the relay) but they all basically serve the same purpose in starting the engine when you turn the ignition switch.
Also, if you have a bunch of keys on your ring, the unecessary weight will wear out Ford ignition switches ASAP. I've seen it happen on even 4-5-6 year old Fords, the switch becomes loose and sloppy.
Glad you were able to start the van. All you have to do is make sure you re-attach the cables onto the correct relay post / connection, and you're good to go.
What happens is those relays, over time, heat cycles ect. sometimes will freeze up internally. The contacts either stick in an open or closed position, in both instances the Aerostar won't start.
Ford used those relays on a ton of various cars and pick-ups over the years. They vary in appearence, some have a one wire connection, some have a two wire set up (the small wires on the top of the relay) but they all basically serve the same purpose in starting the engine when you turn the ignition switch.
Also, if you have a bunch of keys on your ring, the unecessary weight will wear out Ford ignition switches ASAP. I've seen it happen on even 4-5-6 year old Fords, the switch becomes loose and sloppy.
Glad you were able to start the van. All you have to do is make sure you re-attach the cables onto the correct relay post / connection, and you're good to go.
Thread Starter
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Nov 2005
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hi,
yeah, I have heard about rapping it with a hammer too... just to get those brushes to make contact...
The good thing about it all, was I did some PM that I should have been doing for years anyways, and cleaned up the battery terminals, etc - winter will be here soon, and it was nice to have that spare battery too...
now if I can just get my explorer to run nice and smooth, it will be a happy christmas :-)
yeah, I have heard about rapping it with a hammer too... just to get those brushes to make contact...
The good thing about it all, was I did some PM that I should have been doing for years anyways, and cleaned up the battery terminals, etc - winter will be here soon, and it was nice to have that spare battery too...
now if I can just get my explorer to run nice and smooth, it will be a happy christmas :-)
Postmaster
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 4,452
Likes: 1
From: Southern California
On the 3.0L 2WD. it's in-and-out in 20 minutes at most since there is nothing in the way.
If you are unlucky enough to own the 4.0L 4WD version, it's awfully tough since the front drive shaft has to be removed first. I get stressed out just thinking about it.
If you are unlucky enough to own the 4.0L 4WD version, it's awfully tough since the front drive shaft has to be removed first. I get stressed out just thinking about it.
Thread Starter
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 835
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I have been toying with getting a newer (compared to an 89) AWD van - like a 97 of course, since that is the last year they made them - I've been afraid to do so, because I figured that awd was harder to work on, but also, more can fail?
How do the AWD's handle on dry roads compared to the 2wd? any difference? also, are they worth it? or should I just try to find a nice 2wd like I have now? - This is new england though, but that is what the explorer is for :-)
How do the AWD's handle on dry roads compared to the 2wd? any difference? also, are they worth it? or should I just try to find a nice 2wd like I have now? - This is new england though, but that is what the explorer is for :-)