I would love to put my ex away for the winter. They arent making these things any more and we need to take care of them. Mayb i will be able to do the sameday if i get a winter beater. Ted u a pilot?

 

Mr. GT,

I purchased this Ex to be my lifetime truck ... I have the luxury of a second car to use ... Just keeping the Michigan salt off the undercarriage ... no rust is good rust ...

ps. Saves me $100 per month in car insurance ... more mods in the spring

 

Roody, thats a good way to put it. Life time truck, thats how i feel to.

 

When someone of my generation reads posts like these, and the responses, I dont know whether to laugh, cry, or start thinking about learning Chinese.

These posts confirm my prejudice that the young people of today have been badly short-changed on even the basic education that we had in earlier times (and they may be a bit "short-changed" mentally, too).

"RACING" engines (Excursions or airplanes..or, for that matter anything else).
It is a good practice when first starting off with a REALLY cold motor, to let it run at just above idle for a minute or so, so that
a) oil can circulate to the moving parts
b) pistons can start warming up, so you wont get "piston slap" from cold aluminum.

I can think of few things more destructive to an internal combustion engine than "racing" it without the "load" of normal use. While it is destructive of an aircraft engine, at least in an aircraft engine the propellor is still "loading" the crank and internal parts. In an automotive engine, well...what's the point? These kids clearly have no conception of the physics involved.

These kids think it is "macho" to hear an engine scream. Run em wide open, kids (that will do a lot to keep the economy going, folks, after all, the mechanics and the people who sell engine parts have to eat too).

O.K...there is something as destructive as "racing" an engine without the normal "loads" on it. Take a vehicle that is in storage, and starting it and running it for a while.

LEGITIMATE "long term" storage (meaning over 60 days)
Here's what people who actully 1) KNOW what they are doing 2) have had at least a MINIMAL background in basic physics and chemistry (do they require or even teach that in high schools any more..? ) 3) want to keep their long-term maintainence costs down.

First and foremost, change the oil before storage. You really cant go wrong IF you READ THE OWNER'S MANUAL. It will tell you to use a MULTI GRADE oil. For liability purposes, no oil distributor is going to sell a multi-grade oil that dosnt meet SAE / ASTM standards. After you've change the oil, drive it around for about 20 mins, then SHUT IT OFF AND PUT IT AWAY.

Secondly, DISCONNECT the battery. Coat the terminals with grease, or even better, use on of the battery terminal greases. Once a month, stick a battery charger on it just to keep it fully charged.

Putting a car on blocks, as some have suggested, is not as vital these days with radial tires, as it was when I was a kid - bias tires would get a terrible "thump" from a "flat-spot" that took hundreds of miles to work out. But it is still a good idea.

Yeah - where you have "critters", most certainly "cap off" the exhaust, With METAL or ABS (sewer pipe caps work well) (anything else and the little monsters will chew right thru it).

 

6686l, i wasnt talking about starting the engine and just revving the crap out of it. I meant to let it idle for 10 mins then rev.

 

DONT DO IT ! If the engine was shut down with relatively fresh oil, it will be fine for one winter. Starting it up without driving it for a CONSIDERABLE distance would, as some others in here have noted, just generate more moisture from the heating and re-cooling process. And not just in the engine. Also, running gear, tranny, transfer case..differentials, etc.

Now...one qualification. If the engine is going to be idle in a VERY cold and VERY damp climate for more than, say..six-eight months, THEN I would consider pulling the spark plugs, and installing special not-operational spark plugs with a "drier" in them - maybe even spraying a VERY high pressure "mist" inside the bores first. Windows closed up tight, and "driers" placed on the floor. Anti rodent chemicals left under the hood.

Preserving engines for long-term storage is not something new. As far back as the First World War, the U.S. Army had FM's ( Field Manuals) prescribing pretty much what I have suggested. This is not rocket science. Just common sense.

 

Ive never heard of these dummy spark plugs with driers in them? Can you link me to something on teh net describing them?

Also you may want to consider puling the fuel pump fuse, and relieving pressure at the schradder valve or letting it idle and die as the fuel runs out. (id rather releive pressure at schradder) and then kill the spark and while cranking teh motor you can spray some "fogging oil" in through the throttle body. It coats the sylinder walls and keeps them rust free. Im not a huge fan of this as it will leave some residue on the inside of the intake. Although your PCV has already done this, theres no sense in helping it along if you dont have to. I wouldnt do this unless leaving the motor for over a year id say.

I also want to reitterate the heavy gauge plastic laid under the vehicle if its stored on concrete. The water being wicked up and evaporating from the concrete will cause rust on teh undercarriage while in storage. I think youd be amazed at how much water collects under these plastic sheets in just a couple of weeks/months. Make sure its not just some plain tarp, has to be fairly thick to stop evaporating water.

Anotehr old trick was to take axle grease and smear some over the frame, insides of teh bumpers and anything else you odntw ant rusty. Very effective, but a lil messy to apply.

 

Granted, its not a diesel, but here is what I do for parking my Mustang for the winter.

Wash, wax, clean the interior
Fill the gas tank
Add stabil
Park it in the garage
Roll the windows down 1/2"
Put dryer sheets in the car and trunk
Disconnect the battery
Put the cover on it

In the spring I will take the cover off, re-connect the battery, start it (after disconnecting the coil and cranking to get oil pressure) and drive away. Once I get back home (car is stored in my grandmother's garage) I change the oil and check all the other fluids and tire pressure and whatnot.

Its not like the vehicle is sitting for years.

Like everyone else has said, it doesn't make sense to start the vehicle in the winter.

 

6686L, I'm 23. Hopefully from my posts you would not classify me in the same "youth of today" category. I received a top notch education from the hard streets of Brooklyn, NY. Well, I must admit that there were also some excellent teachers in there. Sadly, though, I agree that most of today's students do not have a good education, worst is their understanding (or lack thereof) of the English language. Spanish isn't the national language yet, folks, and neither is 1337 or h4x0r.

Roody, thanks for the "Mr. GT" but you can just call me "Crusher" like my friends do. I can see your point, I suppose it's just a different point of view. To me I bought my Excursion as a work truck that happens to fulfill my needs. With the PowerStroke, these trucks are made to work not to sit, and people I know who've had PowerStrokes that have been babied at all have tended to have many more expensive repairs on them than people who work them to death. The best running ones I see usually have 200k on them, not 20k. Gas motors tend to tolerate sitting a lot better than diesels, in my experience.

Matt, I'm a flight student right now. It's a lot of fun.

 

that sounds like fun ted. Chris, why do u put dryer sheets in ur stang?

 

Chris made a good suggestion that I forgot about: fill the tank! That will prevent as much condensation from getting into the fuel.

Matt, flying is a blast. Come visit some time and we'll go for a spin.

 

6686L,

Im 18 which puts me squarely in the age range that you are excoriating, and I would request that you don't make such flagrant and offensive generalizations. I agree with you that there are certainly undereducated people in my age range, but no more so than any other generation. The goal of education is changing to better assimilate into the world scene, and I don't think that the youth of today should be lambasted for that.

Personally, I resent that you consider todays youth "short-changed mentally." I am currently ranked 31 in a high school class of over 1300 students, with SAT scores of 2270 (thats a 1540 in "your generation" that didn't even have the writing portion of the SAT). As a senior in high school, I am also looking forward to attending a 4 year university, something that more students are doing now than ever have before.

But, I will agree with you. There will always be stupid people, but please do not judge all the youth of my generation by a few ignorant people you may have run into.

As far as "racing" an engine, you are being a little haughty to think that ALL people my age drive like crazies. I actually, believe it or not, pride myself in my safe driving, and understand that an eight thousand pound vehicle is nothing to play with. Yes, you are right though, I had forgotten that engines need load to properly warm up. Let me be the first to admit that I erred, and thank you for correcting me, but please don't do it in such a supercilious manner. I am trying to learn just as you suggest my generation should do, so please don't make it unpleasant for me or anyone else in my age group.

I monitor and participate in this forum because I enjoy it and try to learn as much as I can, and try to help others whenever I can (or think I can). It is not pleasant to be berated when all I'm trying to do is learn and participate in a place, which, by definition, should be a pleasant forum where people can exchange ideas and views and try to better their vehicle owning experience.

Rant over.

Thank you for reading that.

Sincerely,
Isaac

 

i didnt know that a engine warmed up to full temp by having a load on it. I always thought it was revving. Now i know

 

It is load, not revs. Load is what produces the heat.

 

Simply to keep it smelling nice.