I have a 1977 F250 Highboy with a 400-2v and an automatic. I have been having some hot start issues and have discovered a few thing on the forum and on my truck. First off, the truck has a new battery, cables, voltage regulator, starter relay, fairly new starter, and a good alternator. It does the old hot start thing that I have been reading about on this fine forum. While staring blankly under the hood I noticed that my firing order is correct, but is advanced one place on the distributer. Number one is moved ahead one, and so on. I believe that my timing may be off for a couple of reasons, the distributer being one, the hot start being another, and the trucks total lack of power under load being another. Is it possible to get the timing right with the distributer like it is? What is the best and easiest way to fix the distributer? I was told by one person to find tdc and remove and replace the distributer. How do you find tdc? What is the timing supposed to be? I havent gotten my timing like back from my buddy so I havent even checked it yet to see where it is.
So to summarize, I would like to know how to fix the distributer, how to find tdc, am I on the right track, and what is the timing supposed to be. Thanks for any advise and input.

 

The position of the sparkplug wires can be anywhere as long the distributor rotor/camshaft and timing is set accordingly with S/P wires in proper firing order.

To make it the way it was original designed and installed.

You will need to reset everything.

#1 cylinder piston set at TDC of Power stroke
Distributor rotor set to match the #1 wire/cap position.

This may help as well.

http://boxwrench.net/specs/ford_351C.htm

 

Again, good info, thanks Mil1ion. I am trying to track down my timing light from my friend so I can check the timing. I am not to keen on making taking it back to factory if I can set the timing the way it is.

 

This just keeps getting better and better....now I have a brand new battery that is stone dead.

 

was it put on a battery charger to charge it up ?

 

That would be logical wouldnt it... I guess I cant believe that a battery I just bought is dead. That is what is curious about this whole hot start thing...when its hot, it cranks like the battery is dead or dying, but then if I let it sit for a few minutes (usually 20+) it fires off like it never had a problem. Except now its just dead. I will hook it up to a charger...I also am going to recheck all my conections. Thanks

 

Things I feel need to be mentioned.
Line up the timing mark on the balancer (TDC)
Scribe a mark where #1 is on the cap, transfer that mark to the plastic base.
Do not drop the oil pump shaft into your motor. Its a pain to reset. I'm not sure how to avoid pulling it out, it just happens sometimes.
Using the mark on the base, point your rotor at #1, then back it off about 30* counter clockwise, or about to where the next terminal would be.
Set your vacuum advance to about the middle of the useable throw, drop the dizzy in.
If it wont drop all the way, get a 5/16" socket on a 12" extension (tape it together) and rotate the oil pump shaft 5-10* and try again. Keep trying till it goes in.
Once it drops in, confirm that the rotor is pointing right before the mark you (made 5* or so), and your vacuum advance is in about the middle of its useable turning radius.
Snug the clamp, but do not tighten.
Put everything back together.
Have a buddy man the ignition switch, and fire extinguisher
Push the gas pedal one time to set the choke, try to start. DO NOT pump the gas. You can get a nasty backfire.
If the truck wont start within a few seconds try rotating the distributor a little bit each way till it fires off, or/and hit it with a timing light to get er dun.
Set your timing in accordance with manfuacturers specifications.

 

It may not be the problem, but if your starter gets hot, it will cause the slow cranking. Do you have headers or exhaust pipe close to the starter? A starter blanket should help.

 

If you suspect a hot start issue due to heat soak, ditch those new 4 ga. wires you just put on, and install double aught 2/0 cables. You need three of them. One from the battery (+) to the solenoid, solenoid to starter, block to (-) side of battery.

 

New 2 gauge wires, Heavy Duty New Starter, deep cycle battery. Cranks QUICK!!! when cold, still a bit sluggish after a long drive if you try to start it up right after shutting it off. I am going on to other problems, I can live with it the way it is now.

 

Deep cycle batteries aren't for automotive starting system use.

They are designed for Long Time draw like Holiday Trailer lighting.

 

Deep Cycle might not be correct terminology. All I did was replace a weak autozone battery with an interstate mega something or another. More cranking amps is all.


Any ideas where I can get a 'starter blanket'....

 

any performance rag should have them. Summit, Jegs. check our sponsers first, you can probly find one somewhere.

 

My Problem Is The Exact Opposite, Cranks And Runs Great When Warm-hot, Total Opposite When Cold....but Im Pretty Sure Thats A Standard On Carbed Engines.

 

That usually indicates your battery is discharging when you let it sit, look for a switch that may be left on or a broken wire...

They won't crank like the gear-reduction starters used on 99% of modern vehicles, but its definetly not slow.