Help! Bad Injectors?
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From: Bloomfield Hills, MI
Help! Bad Injectors?
Started the truck tonight and it ideled really ROUGH! Lots and lots of black smoke. when i drove it last night i had no problems at all. ~277,000 Miles, 4wd, 7.3. I think this is a bad injector, am i right? how much is it to replace. i will be going to the dealer tomorrow and dont wanna get taken advantage of!! thanks guys i appreciate it
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From: Fulltime RVer
Dump a small bottle of Stanadyne performance formula DFA into the tank, and maybe add some directly to your filter bowel. I've been averaging about a X1.5 dose of the stuff at every fill up for years. The small bottle is good for 60 gal at the recommended dose, but they claim up to a X2 dose gives additional benefit, but not in direct proportion to the increase.
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From: Bloomfield Hills, MI
Well i always add Power service - ernesteugene, what would the benefit of that be?
It starts extremely rough, idles extremely rough (barely running)Black smoke pours out and within 15-40 seconds engine dies. Even when i give it some gas it feels like some cylinders are running good but it feels like half an engine. Prior to this i had NO problems whatsoever. it ran great.
It starts extremely rough, idles extremely rough (barely running)Black smoke pours out and within 15-40 seconds engine dies. Even when i give it some gas it feels like some cylinders are running good but it feels like half an engine. Prior to this i had NO problems whatsoever. it ran great.
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From: Middle Tennessee
Check all your engine wiring harnesses first along with the UVC connectors at tha valve covers. Unplug and plug those back in. Also, the main harness along the driver side of the engine has a tendency to fail where it may rub on the valve cover. Make sure that is good to go.
Another way to isolate which side a problem is on if you don't have a scanner is to pull one side of the UVC connetor at a time and see where it has the least affect on the engine.
BTW, did it get any better when it warmed up?
Another way to isolate which side a problem is on if you don't have a scanner is to pull one side of the UVC connetor at a time and see where it has the least affect on the engine.
BTW, did it get any better when it warmed up?
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From: Bloomfield Hills, MI
Didnt have a chance to get warm, dies after about a minute. usually less. Thanks tenn, ill try that out and report my results. Im hoping i don't have to throw it on a trailer and tow it with the DODGE RAM 1500. that would be a slap in the face to my superduty lol. i might just put some of those black covers used on new and concept cars so my baby doesnt have to be subjected to being towed behind a dodge
Post Fiend
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From: Middle Tennessee
Nah, you will find out one way or another that you didn't suddenly lose an injector. You need to make sure you have adequate fuel, 500psi of HPO pressure and an air supply.
The rest is troubleshooting. When was the last time the fuel filter was changed? Your fuel pump may also be getting tired with that kind of mileage. Also, when was the last time the oil was changed? That is so often overlooked and critical on the 7.3.
The rest is troubleshooting. When was the last time the fuel filter was changed? Your fuel pump may also be getting tired with that kind of mileage. Also, when was the last time the oil was changed? That is so often overlooked and critical on the 7.3.
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From: Bloomfield Hills, MI
Ok all UVC connectors - still no fix. but after i let it sit for about 3 hours it did run better. still very ROUGH and throwing ALOT of smoke. (neighbors though there was a fire). like ernestegene suggested, could this be a problem with bad fuel? no check engine light was one. we do use fuel outta 55 gallons drums recollected from semi trucks and have gone through about 15 drums problem free. i always add power service. and like i said, engine is running strgoner then before.
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Post Fiend
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From: Middle Tennessee
Attach a hose to the tube coming from the fuel drain valve. It is located on the front of the passenger side of the engine. Have someone turn the key while you observe for a strong flow of fuel out that hose into a suitible container. Of course the drain valve will have to be open for this to work.
I am all but sure you are having a fuel problem. Confirm this after you do the flow test by opening the filter cover, (replace that filter if it looks bad) pour known good fuel and a additive in there to fill it close to the top, then cap and start it.
I am all but sure you are having a fuel problem. Confirm this after you do the flow test by opening the filter cover, (replace that filter if it looks bad) pour known good fuel and a additive in there to fill it close to the top, then cap and start it.
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From: Fulltime RVer
Originally Posted by randomhero1172
Oil, 3700 miles ago -did that one myself. fuel filter .... gotta say around 7500-9000 miles ago and pump - couldnt tell ya. its a well kept vehicle
The recommendation if that's the problem is to drop the tank, clean it as required, and remove both of these canister filters that are only good for 200 micron filtration anyway, and then install an external suction filter with a 30 micron filtration capability.
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From: Bloomfield Hills, MI
Wow this helped alot guys. Trucks back to normal after a change of the filter and some PS 911. im gonna drop the tank tomorrow. But now its idling real high - it has never done this before and i dont see a problem with it but if this is a sympthom of something bad lemme know. thanks for the help!
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From: Bloomfield Hills, MI
Ya it was cold last night for the first time here. hit 35*, it idled at 1000 instead of the usually 600-800 or somewhere around there. im sure this is hi idle mode because when i hit the brakes it stops. thanks guys