spitting ATF help fast!
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Elder User
Joined: Jan 2005
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From: Alpharetta
spitting ATF help fast!
We have a 95 E350 with 7.3 NON TURBO with automatic and overdrive. on the way down the road the other day we noticed plumes of smoke coming from the back of the truck. Come to find out it was ATF fluid spitting out of the trans and hitting the exhaust. We did some experimenting and figured it's coming out of the spout that is on the bottom side of the flywheel/clutch? area. basically on the area where the engine and trans are mated. There is a metal tube coming out of the back of the trans at that location. i hope that makes sense. The tube is coming out of the trans at the area where the trans and engine mate. Is this tube supposed to be connected to anything? plugged? what would cause the truck to spit out all the ATF? please help fast!
Thanks
keith
Thanks
keith
Last edited by kjg26; Oct 20, 2007 at 10:18 AM.
Cargo Master
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 2,182
Likes: 7
From: Saint Augustine, FL
Its dumping fluid out of the front seal. That's the seal where the neck of the torque converter fits into the pump.
There are a couple of common causes for this. First, the seal could have gone bad but from your description its sounds more like it either overheated badly or the pump bushing spun in the pump.
Overheating is typically caused by the torque converter clutch failing to engage or the torque converter clutch slipping badly.
If the pump bushing spun, the likely cause is either wear or overheating.
No matter what, the first step will be to pull the transmission and inspect the front seal, torque converter neck and pump bushing.
Steve
'95 Clubwagon XLT
There are a couple of common causes for this. First, the seal could have gone bad but from your description its sounds more like it either overheated badly or the pump bushing spun in the pump.
Overheating is typically caused by the torque converter clutch failing to engage or the torque converter clutch slipping badly.
If the pump bushing spun, the likely cause is either wear or overheating.
No matter what, the first step will be to pull the transmission and inspect the front seal, torque converter neck and pump bushing.
Steve
'95 Clubwagon XLT
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FTE Leadership Emeritus
Joined: Jan 2003
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From: 3rd Rock
Nelson, maybe you can give a bit more advise on why he needs one or even some technical advantages from using your convert over other brands or OEM's.
No harm in getting technical, helps all members~
No harm in getting technical, helps all members~
FTE Sponsor
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 49
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Torque converter
Hey, For the first thing we have been building since 1970.
We take the converter and build it way beyond factory spec. We weld the fins and inspect the stator along with all of the bearings. We will add a bigger bearing in the front depending on the application. The front and backs get inspected for any defcets in the metal as well. All components that will be used again will be given an acid bath and cleaned up. Then we take the piston(your Lock up) and strip off the factory linner. We will use the heavy duty carbon blind or the Kevlar blend linner. This allows the MAX out put with out the slipping effect and weaker shifts. I just need to know the application. Even the kick down will be faster. Then we weld up the fins and replace all O rings. We inspect and mic out the impeller hub and replace if nessary. The same with the crank piolit. Once we gother all of the peaces together. we test the bal. and out of round-ness. This allows us to insure a cleaner weld all the way around. The welding style we use allows for a better hold. Then we weld the top and bottom with our deep penatrating weld. I leard how to do the "spray MIG" when I was fixing F-14 on the USS Enterprise. (NAVY) They are welded to +-.05 to 3 thousands out. This is double tight the factory spec. This also gives the part a much longer life. They are then pressure tested to 150 PSI to check for any leaks. at this time we go to paint. Every step we take is to insure duablity of the part.
There is more, but I am not sure if you know the equipment in our industry.
Do You have any questions? or did I answer you questions.
We take the converter and build it way beyond factory spec. We weld the fins and inspect the stator along with all of the bearings. We will add a bigger bearing in the front depending on the application. The front and backs get inspected for any defcets in the metal as well. All components that will be used again will be given an acid bath and cleaned up. Then we take the piston(your Lock up) and strip off the factory linner. We will use the heavy duty carbon blind or the Kevlar blend linner. This allows the MAX out put with out the slipping effect and weaker shifts. I just need to know the application. Even the kick down will be faster. Then we weld up the fins and replace all O rings. We inspect and mic out the impeller hub and replace if nessary. The same with the crank piolit. Once we gother all of the peaces together. we test the bal. and out of round-ness. This allows us to insure a cleaner weld all the way around. The welding style we use allows for a better hold. Then we weld the top and bottom with our deep penatrating weld. I leard how to do the "spray MIG" when I was fixing F-14 on the USS Enterprise. (NAVY) They are welded to +-.05 to 3 thousands out. This is double tight the factory spec. This also gives the part a much longer life. They are then pressure tested to 150 PSI to check for any leaks. at this time we go to paint. Every step we take is to insure duablity of the part.
There is more, but I am not sure if you know the equipment in our industry.
Do You have any questions? or did I answer you questions.
