gooseneck installation
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Elder User
Joined: May 2007
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gooseneck installation
I live in Nashville Tn. and the cheapest I have found for goosdeneck install is $750. There is a company 55 miles east of me that will sell/install one for $350. It is not a B&W but has a Gross trailer weight rating of 25K pds. and 7K pds. toungue weight. How hard is it to install one yourself?
FTE Chapter Leader
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 14,904
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From: Wayland, MI
Only 1 hole to drill on the B&W, but it's a big one. Measure twice drill once. The B&W uses existing holes in the frame. It should take about 2 hours if you are familiar with hand tools. Just ordered one for my 99 F250 that I just bought.
I would say do it yourself and save a bunch of money.
Toyman
I would say do it yourself and save a bunch of money.
Toyman
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Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 392
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From: tom bean tx
socket wrenches, tape measure, 4"hole saw, bigdrill to drill with, or a freind with a plasma cutter. you could mark it and take it to a body shop and have them plasma it for you. 1/2" drill bit to drill for safety chains. the hardest part is to actually cut the metal, not the actual cutting, just the part if you wonder if it is the right place..it was really pretty easy. oh and it is kinda heavy. but not to heavy that you cant do it..but is has a little adjustment if is off just a little bit. but not to much....
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Joined: Nov 2002
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From: Texas
Had one put in my '04, sold the truck. Put the next one in myself in my '07. About 3 hours--next one would be 2 hours or less. Hardest part is the nervousness about starting the 4" hole. Lifting and holding the bed plate into place was easy with a roller pipe and a rope.
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I got it installed along with the wring plug in the bed for $415. I will take some pics to show it. It is the fold down ball. It says to grease/oil frequently. I haven't really looked closely because of all the rain we've had. What exactly do I grease and oil?
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Posting Guru
Joined: Nov 2002
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From: Texas
Not familiar with the fold-down type--mine is the ball/shaft insert--you should have gotten an instruction sheet with the install? Any pivot point is probably what is meant.
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Tuned
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 342
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From: South central kansas
As far as greasing the hitch goes, it is a double edged sword. If you drive mostly or all on pavement, then I would wipe a little grease on the ball itself and the pivot points each time you use it. If you are out on dirt roads a lot or dirty conditions I would use a dry silicone lube or nothing at all. With no grease at all and moisture things will get to where you will need pliers or a bar to pry the ball out, but, if you are in dirt a lot the dirt will stick to the grease and basically create the same problem as no grease. It is a trade off, use your best judgement. The dry silicone lube is the best all around choise though.