Air Compressor Problem
Lead Driver
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 7,868
Likes: 9
From: Rhode Island
I see what your saying there, but if he can turn the compressor wheel by hand, and the motor that is atleast 1-2HP, can't, I'd think it'd point more towards the motor with a bad capacitor.
A single phase motor cannot start without some kind of starting circuit, they need a magnetic phase shift to get the rotor turning. That can be done with just a different resistance winding, and you can add a capacitor, or more to that winding to increase the phase shift, and starting torque respectully. If your capacitor is going bad, it will probably create enough of a shift to get it turning with no load, but when you put a load, its just hopeless
But we'll see for sure after he checks later tonight.
A single phase motor cannot start without some kind of starting circuit, they need a magnetic phase shift to get the rotor turning. That can be done with just a different resistance winding, and you can add a capacitor, or more to that winding to increase the phase shift, and starting torque respectully. If your capacitor is going bad, it will probably create enough of a shift to get it turning with no load, but when you put a load, its just hopeless
But we'll see for sure after he checks later tonight.
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Elder User
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 741
Likes: 0
From: Katy(Houston), Texas
Here is the link to a exploded view of my pump. I'm not sure where the pressure blow off valve is located, unless you are talking about a valve located on the tube connecting the two cylinders together. It has a little valve like thing on it.
Here is my pump http://www.mastertoolrepair.com/b590...h580-p-36.html
Here is my pump http://www.mastertoolrepair.com/b590...h580-p-36.html
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Elder User
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 741
Likes: 0
From: Katy(Houston), Texas
I was surprised when I took the belt off and hit the switch because that motor spun up with no problem and no load of course. I do feel some compression on the pump when I spin it but not shure if it is excessive pressure or not since I never tested it before.
"Mifflin Clay"
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 3,177
Likes: 4
From: Mifflin, PA
Originally Posted by lowtrkn2k
Here is the link to a exploded view of my pump. I'm not sure where the pressure blow off valve is located, unless you are talking about a valve located on the tube connecting the two cylinders together. It has a little valve like thing on it.
Here is my pump http://www.mastertoolrepair.com/b5900-pump-kits-used-b51at24-h580-p-36.html
Here is my pump http://www.mastertoolrepair.com/b5900-pump-kits-used-b51at24-h580-p-36.html
Hope this helps.....
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Elder User
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 741
Likes: 0
From: Katy(Houston), Texas
ok, this is what I found out. First I emptied the tank to 0psi and kicked on the compressor and it filled to 175psi and cut off (normal operation) with out any problems. I then tried to turn the pump by hand and it was hard to turn at part of the piston stroke then easy then hard at part of the piston stoke. Then I loosened the tiny tube connected to the pressure switch and turned it by hand and it turned much easier. So it seems like the pressure isn't being released when it tries to start again. What do you "experts" think???
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Elder User
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 741
Likes: 0
From: Katy(Houston), Texas
Ok, I found this on Mastertoolrepair.com and I did the test they said and it looks like the check valve may be the culpret. When I take the tube from the top of the pump head that goes into the tank I hear a little air coming out. Before I unbolt that tube the pump is hard to turn, but after loosening the tube it turns really easily. They have a few "trouble shooting" tips on there for future reference. I guess I will be ordering a check valve and hopefully that will take care of the problem.
Thanks again for everyones help!
Check Valve Test
1)Let your compressor pump up to pressure and shut off.
2)Turn off compressor.
3)Find the large supply line that leads from the pump head into the tank.
4)Slowly, start to remove the supply line from the pump head.
5a)If you hear air coming from this line, then you have a bad check valve. Go to check valve page on this page link: http://www.mastertoolrepair.com/bcompressor-accessoriesb-check-valves-c-25_4.html
5b)If you do not hear air coming from the tank, you have a leaky pressure switch. Order a pressure switch or unloader valve on this page link: http://www.mastertoolrepair.com/bcompressor-accessoriesb-pressure-switches-c-25_2.html
Thanks again for everyones help!
Check Valve Test
1)Let your compressor pump up to pressure and shut off.
2)Turn off compressor.
3)Find the large supply line that leads from the pump head into the tank.
4)Slowly, start to remove the supply line from the pump head.
5a)If you hear air coming from this line, then you have a bad check valve. Go to check valve page on this page link: http://www.mastertoolrepair.com/bcompressor-accessoriesb-check-valves-c-25_4.html
5b)If you do not hear air coming from the tank, you have a leaky pressure switch. Order a pressure switch or unloader valve on this page link: http://www.mastertoolrepair.com/bcompressor-accessoriesb-pressure-switches-c-25_2.html
i ain't rite
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 65,440
Likes: 5,514
From: Marlboro Mental Hospital.
i do not think it is the check valve my money is on the unloader valve.
i could not remember it's name, that is why i called it the head pressure release valve.
on the top of the tank is the check valve. if that is bad, it will slowly drain the tank out of the unloader valve over a couple of days, or let the tank back drain to the compressor head.
coming off of the check valve is a small 1/8 or 1/4 line that goes to the bottom or side of the pressure cutoff switch. that is the switch that the power wires go to.
the small line goes into the unloader valve, and releases the pressure between the compressor head and the tank check valve.
to check the unloader valve, remove it from the cutoff switch. if air is released from the line, the unloader valve is bad.
they only cost around $5
make sure you get the proper valve for the type of compressor and cutoff switch you have. there are 4 or 5 different styles.
i could not remember it's name, that is why i called it the head pressure release valve.
on the top of the tank is the check valve. if that is bad, it will slowly drain the tank out of the unloader valve over a couple of days, or let the tank back drain to the compressor head.
coming off of the check valve is a small 1/8 or 1/4 line that goes to the bottom or side of the pressure cutoff switch. that is the switch that the power wires go to.
the small line goes into the unloader valve, and releases the pressure between the compressor head and the tank check valve.
to check the unloader valve, remove it from the cutoff switch. if air is released from the line, the unloader valve is bad.
they only cost around $5
make sure you get the proper valve for the type of compressor and cutoff switch you have. there are 4 or 5 different styles.
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Elder User
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 741
Likes: 0
From: Katy(Houston), Texas
Hey TJC, Im not sure if we are talking about the same thing. My pressure switch (the switch where the wires go to) has the small tube that comes out and goes to a bigger tube that goes from the tank up to the head of the pump. The only places were there are "valves" are on the pressure switch itself (it has one with a ring in it and if you pull it air is released) and the other is on a large tube that goes from one cylinder down and around to the other cylinder. It connect the two cylinder pistons together at the head forcing the air into the tank. It has a valve on it also which is what I was calling the "check valve". Is this what you are calling the "unloader" valve?? http://www.mastertoolrepair.com/b590...h580-p-36.html It's on 36 Intercooler tube part at the above link. I just ran out to look at it again and it only has a valve on that intercooler tube and a valve on the pressure switch which has a ring that you can pull so I assume the other one is the one you are talking about??
Posting Guru
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 1,321
Likes: 2
From: MI
Originally Posted by lowtrkn2k
Hey TJC, Im not sure if we are talking about the same thing. My pressure switch (the switch where the wires go to) has the small tube that comes out and goes to a bigger tube that goes from the tank up to the head of the pump.
i ain't rite
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 65,440
Likes: 5,514
From: Marlboro Mental Hospital.
look closely at the pictures on this page.
on the bottom of the page there are 3 pressure switches.
the furnas switch has the unloader valve on the side of it.
the condor switch has it underneath it.
it is the little brass thing.
on the bottom of the page there are 3 pressure switches.
the furnas switch has the unloader valve on the side of it.
the condor switch has it underneath it.
it is the little brass thing.
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Elder User
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 741
Likes: 0
From: Katy(Houston), Texas
mine is the furnas style. It has the brass on the side and the small tube screws into it. Looks like I will need to change the whole unit which wont be so bad since when I bought the compressor it didn't have the cover. I have not been able to find a cover for it. I turn off the breaker to the compressor for safety when I'm not using it. I guess I will order the switch unit.
i ain't rite
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 65,440
Likes: 5,514
From: Marlboro Mental Hospital.
try the phone book, and look for an electrical supply house, or industrial supply house.
you might even get lucky and find one at a welding supply house also.
i got my last condor switch for $32 two town over 3 years ago.
you might even get lucky and find one at a welding supply house also.
i got my last condor switch for $32 two town over 3 years ago.
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