So, I was planning on putting my new dual plane manifold on my 390 along with my 600cfm carb. and I noticed that pushrods go through the intake manifold.
****.
I guess I was thinking it was going to be like a chevy (don't hang me)but apparently I have to remove the rocker arms and all that crap. Since I'm a complete novice I think i'll have to pay to have it done. So, I put the engine back together but noticed I had no oil pressure after installing the distributor. I'm sure this is common knowledge for you guys but I was freaking out because I drove it around the block before I noticed this.. I didn't hear any strange noises from the engine but after seeing that, I am now concerned. You guys think I may have damaged anything, and what did I do wrong? Also, anyone had experience with NAPA rebuilds? How much it's going to run me? Would you recommend someone else? I think I need to do this motor from the ground up........

If I did have this rebuilt, where can I get a 428 crankshaft?

 

Calm down, take one problem at a time. Have you checked to make sure the gauge was reading? I noticed knocking before I looked at the gauge on an old heep I used to own; silence is golden until proven otherwise.

I like the fact that you are thinking before doing. I think you can learn this crap quick enough to get it right the first try. That's all I'm gonna say tonight, I really need to rest. Someone else will chime in soon enough.

 

Yeah settle down...Its basically the same procedure as any other engine other than taking off the rocker arm shafts....so il do this in steps for you:

1. Clear everything that may be mounted around or on top of your intake and valve covers and pul out ur distributor.

2. Remove your valve covers....then unbolt your rocker arm shafts....keep your bolts in the right holes and when u reassemble everything keep your rocker arms on the side u took them off of.

3. Pull your push rods...take a box or something of that nature and make 8 holes parallel to each other to keep your push rods in order.

4. Unbolt your intake manifold and remove it from the block.

5. Now all you have to do is repeat this procedure in the reverse order.

Its pretty simple and dont panic. As for the 428 crank you were asking about...you can find them on ebay but they are pretty salty. SCAT also sells them to.

So i hope this helps and im sure others will pitch in there 2 cents.....Good Luck

 

Sounds like the oil pump driveshaft ended up in the oil pan. When you pulled
your distributor the pump driveshaft came out, a common FE problem. You will
need to pull your dizzy and check it out.

Drive Fast - - Take Chances----- Hotwrench

 

I'm with Hotwrench, pull the dizzy and look in the hole. If you dont see the hex head shaft in the center of the boss. It;s in the pan. You can try to fish it out with a 1/4" telescoping pen magnet if so. I did it twice and managed to get it out both times. It usually ends up leaning against the boss/pump. If you do have to do this leave it out until you get all the intake crap done. Use the magnet with a dowel or a hose to set it back in place just prior to replacing the dizzy. Be damn sure it's at TDC and #1 on the dizzy or you get to do this again.

Intake: 460 has it, just a few things to add.
#2 Prior to tearing it open set it to TDC then rotate the engine 45º to release tension on the rockers/shafts. You can bend something if this isnt done.
#3 When pulling the push rods give a sharp twist on them and ease them out. Or you may have no choice but to remove the intake to get to a lifter now resting somewhere under the intake and giving up is impossible LOL.

There is a pattern to the torque as well as a torque # for the intake you might want that handy .
Driver side: 4 7 1 9 6 (front of intake)
Passng side: 5 10 2 8 3 (front of intake)

32-35lbs

I'm sure theres some more advice on the way be patient.. BOL Bob

 

When putting the intake back on, I like to seal down all the gaskets to the block, on the bottom side. Then set the intake, the aluminun one is the ez one to use, do not bolt it down, this will help keep the gaskets in place, Leave it setting until gaskets are set and dry, then bolt the intake down as stated above.

 

Thanks guys. I should have posted that whole section about wanting a rebuild not because I was concerned that I ruined the engine completely. Rather, because when I was looking in the engine it looked pretty foul. I'm starting to think this engine has a hefty amount of mileage.

Few questions: Is "Dizzy" the distributor? Also, pump drive shaft controls oil flow to the top of the engine then? I'm surprised they would engineer the engine like that..

Does anyone know why FE engines have their pushrods going through the intake manifold? Is there any advantage to this, or just to make the process harder?

Thanks guys, BIG help in this whole process.

 

Crank turns the cam, cam turns the dizzy(yes distributor), dizzy turns the oil pump via the shaft "which oils the entire engine , not just the top end" As to the intake with push rods... I think Ole Henry knew these Fords wouldnt be coming apart for reapairs as often as a POS chevy and figured he'd make it interesting for the converts

 

Hmm nothing about tightening the rocker arm shaft hardware a 1/4 turn at a time until the supports are seated. You may want to do that to prevent bending the shaft. Just a little interesting tid bit I found in an article in the 70 something July Carcraft issue.

 

Do the same when you loosen them too.

 

Exactly what I did. When ready to tighten down the shafts I stood there looking at them and thought maybe I should take them bit by bit so nothing got bent from too much stress on one end vs. the other. Maybe **** but I hate going back into things and doing them all over again. Better safe than sorry...

 

So umm guys. I know I need to get a book on these engines. but does anyone know where I can get a diagram of this hex head shaft that apparently is running rampant through my engine like a hamster in Richard Gear's ***?

"Hmm nothing about tightening the rocker arm shaft hardware a 1/4 turn at a time until the supports are seated. You may want to do that to prevent bending the shaft. Just a little interesting tid bit I found in an article in the 70 something July Carcraft issue."

and

"Intake: 460 has it, just a few things to add.
#2 Prior to tearing it open set it to TDC then rotate the engine 45º to release tension on the rockers/shafts. You can bend something if this isnt done. "

I need some more education on those quotes guys.. I understand TDC as I stupidly took my distributor off without marking a few important things.... So I quickly learned TDC...heh.....

Then it is said to rotate the engine 45 degrees... how do I know when it is turned 45 degrees from that point? and is there really a big chance of bending something?

Any of you guys live in bend oregon by chance?! long learning process.. i love it.. but I wanna drive this thing with some upgrades..... thanks for all help!

 

The big block Ford engine book suggests rotating the crank an additional 45 degrees past TDC which sets the cam so none of the lobes are at full lift. That will minimize stress on the rocker shaft as you bolt it on or off. If you can't picture 45 degrees then just go about 2 inches past TDC and you will be close enough. The book also says to start at one end of the shaft and turn each bolt two turns and continue to the next bolt until eventually all are torqued to 40-45 lbs.

 

Look on the trailing side of the TDC mark about 2" past as I recall are 3 XXX's if memory serves me correctly. That is the 45º mark butif you put a rachet on the crank and set it at 3 oclock and turn it to 4:30 your there as well, the XXX's should be lined up with the timing pointer.

"All of this is in the book" it's 12.00 or so used on Amazon.com do yourself a favor and just get it. You wont be sorry.

 

I live in Prineville,Oregon. Work in Redmond and Bend.