Help with identifying a part.
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Elder User
Joined: Oct 2003
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From: Gulf Shores, AL
Help with identifying a part.
OK My truck is DRT (Dead Right Thar). What is the capaciter thing next to the coil? Could that be a cause of problems? Help I need to get it running. I posted a wekk or so ago with no reply hopefully this one will get me started.
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Elder User
Joined: Oct 2003
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From: Gulf Shores, AL
I described it in a previous post that was never responded to but I will explain again.
I can go out to crank it and the first time I will turn the key it will hit on a couple of cylinders but then nothing. I hit the key again and it might hit once then nothing after that. It is bizarre. It started out a year ago only in cold weather but it would eventuallyt start. But now nothing. I do have fuel in the rail under pressure but have not checked for spark yet. I am sure I have spark because it does hit ocassionaly but if it is strong enough I do not know.
I can go out to crank it and the first time I will turn the key it will hit on a couple of cylinders but then nothing. I hit the key again and it might hit once then nothing after that. It is bizarre. It started out a year ago only in cold weather but it would eventuallyt start. But now nothing. I do have fuel in the rail under pressure but have not checked for spark yet. I am sure I have spark because it does hit ocassionaly but if it is strong enough I do not know.
FTE Chapter Leader
Joined: Mar 2007
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From: Crowville Louisiana
The first thing that I would try is the EEC relay. It is on the driver side fender. If it hasnt ever been messed with it will be in a rectangle box. There is 2 relays in it. One is a fuel pump relay and the other is an electronic engine controll modgual. I had a problem simular to this a few years ago It would be hard to start sometimes and got worse over time. When it went out the truck was dead and wouldnt fire. I trouble shot it for a week. Change distributer and lots of tests. I was following my Haynes manual. I done all of the tests and they were good. Finaly after all of that at the bottom of the page it said if all tests good change eec relay. I changed it and the truck cranked right up.
I dont know how to tell the diffrence in the relays they both look the same. The eec relay is about $15. It is a good place to start.
I dont know how to tell the diffrence in the relays they both look the same. The eec relay is about $15. It is a good place to start.
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Joined: Mar 2004
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From: Boyd,TX
The part you are trying to describe is a noise capicator. I don't think it will keep it from starting. Try removing the ignition module and take it to autozone they will test it free, and try checking every part of the ignition secondary sys. IE dist cap, rotor, wires, etc.
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Elder User
Joined: Oct 2003
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From: Gulf Shores, AL
ok just an update, i tested the coil and the ignition module, the module checked out but the coil was low on resistance on the primary and secondary side so i replaced it and it started. I went out this morning and tried to crank it and nothing. i will try the relay next i guess. i guess it was just coincidence that it started. any other ideas would also be appreciated.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Aug 2005
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From: Easton,Ks
I take it you are talking about the 1991 truck.
Check for power on the + side of the coil while cranking, if no power you may have a bad Ignition Switch.
Does the fuel pumps run for one second when you first turn on the key?
If so the EEC Relay is more than likely OK.
If your fuel pumps run all the time the key is on then you may have a bad PCM Computer.
If the fuel pumps run for one second and quit and you have power on the coil with the key on then you may have a bad TFI module, PIP sensor or bad wiring in the Ignition circuit.
Check for power on the + side of the coil while cranking, if no power you may have a bad Ignition Switch.
Does the fuel pumps run for one second when you first turn on the key?
If so the EEC Relay is more than likely OK.
If your fuel pumps run all the time the key is on then you may have a bad PCM Computer.
If the fuel pumps run for one second and quit and you have power on the coil with the key on then you may have a bad TFI module, PIP sensor or bad wiring in the Ignition circuit.
Junior User
Joined: Oct 2007
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i had a problem like that and when i worked on it there was these wires next to my distributer and they have plastic clips on them and the plugged in and everything but the heat warped the rubber on the wire and it peeled back it they keep arcing and the more i cranked the more they arc and it wouldnt start most of the time but i got started some how once went 5miles and it just shut down so i just took the damn plastic clip things off and soder them and used a lot of eletrical tape and now my truck runs even better than it ever did
Fleet Owner
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From: Easton,Ks
Originally Posted by rbloodhound
The fuel pump will still run with a bad EEC relay. I know from experience. I trouble shot my truck for a week.