At best it will likely need a complete rebuild. Unless you are doing a purist restore it probably isn't even worth the effort to pull the heads. It will definitely need a flywheel and clutch, and I don't believe the truck tranny was syncromesh in 55 (definitely not in 1st). If you look around you should be able to pick up a good running engine and transmission for a lot less money than you are going to have to invest in what you have.

 

AXracer, I have thought about going darkside and installing a 302 or 351 AOD trans, But I figure I'd take a chance with what I have just to see if is any good. Instead of dumping alot of $$$$ into it I may as well look for something else to drop in. Seems like a better option than a rebuild.

 

Look on your local Craigslist for a complete donor (low milege wreck or older car being sold to settle an estate, etc) Strip it of anything useable and scrap or sell off the rest.
That's usually cheaper than buying a pulled assembly or parts. Also check to see if there's a U-pull-it yard nearby. I'd avoid the 5.0 Mustangs tho, they have usually been beat to death by the kids.

 

I've been checking graigs list pretty much daily and theres a u-pull-it just around the corner. In your opinion would it be better to go with a truck motor and trans or car motor and trans? I'm thinking probably 1966 to mid to late 80's on either. I'm definitly staying away from the 5.0 like you said.

 

in the late model stuff there is little difference between light truck and pass car engines and trannies, but the pass car ones are less likely to have been "rode hard and put up wet". An automatic or std tranny with OD would be most desirable for a daily driver/cruiser with today's gas prices. Don't necessarily shy away from engines with EFI they can be used as is, as long as you get the computer and wiring harness with it and most all but the latest modular ones can be converted back to carb if you prefer.

 

AXracer,
Thanks for all your information on this matter. I will certainly take it all into consideration when making my decision. I'm sure I'll be asking more questions in the near future as the rebuild progresses.
Thanks again to everyone.

 

There are others here that are better qualified to give you details on various Ford drivetrain combinations to make an informed decision. My expertise tends to run towards a different manufacturer, so I can only speak in general terms about FMC offerings.

 

It is still worth a try, I have freed up a flatmotor that had been sitting in a barn in a 50 model rice truck for just as long and got it free by pouring marvel in the cylinders and turning it by hand. As a side note when I got it free enough to turn using the starter I could not get it to start, I pulled the heads and found most of the valves were stuck, one broken, and a cracked block.

 

I think I'll give the ole marvel juice a try just to see what kind of a result I get. I guess the outcome of that will pretty much determine my next move. I'd like to think that this will work so I'll keep my fingers and everything else crossed. I'll probably get this weekend to go home for a bit so I'll try it then and let it set for the week till I get some more time off.

 

If it were me doing this, I would proceed as follows:
1. I would attempt to move the truck with a tow chain with the transmission in neutral.
If it moves I know the rear axle, brakes, U joints, transmission etc are not locked up.

2. I would put the tranny in gear and hold the clutch in while attempting to move the truck with a tow chain. If it once again moved I would be sure the clutch was not frozen. If it did not move the second time, I would disconnect the drive shaft before going any further because the clutch is frozen and any attempt to free the engine would not likely be successful.
3. If the clutch is frozen I would open the inspection cover on the bellhousing and attempt to free the clutch by locking the linkage down while attempting to drive a flat prybar between the flywheel and clutch disk (no sense worrying about wrecking the clutch or the flywheel at this point they are already ruined.
4. If I could not free the clutch I would pull the heads and check the condition of the pistons and bores.
5. If the condition of the pistons and bores warrant further work I would pull the transmission and flywheel.
6. After a few days of oil soaking in penetrating oil I would put the end of a short piece of 2x4 on top the highest piston and give it a few health taps with a heavy hammer. I would then move to the next piston in the firing order and do the same until I had bumped all the pistons. I would then put a large breaker bar on the crank snout bolt and try turning it over in the tightening of the bolt direction. If nothing has moved by this time I would repeat the process a couple times more with a bit more force on the hammer and breaker bar ( a 3' length of water pipe slipped over the breaker bar handle. Just be sure it's a bar made for that store at the mall that unconditionally guarantees their tools against breakage )each round.
7. By now I would have freed the motor or broken a piston. If the latter I would pull the engine and drop it off at the nearest scrap yard.

 

i used deisel and a lot of patience in trying to break it loose on the flatty . it worked . now i'm trying to free up a very froze up 37 flatty i got sitting here .... so far it's winning .

 

i was rereading and seen where you might consider a swap . i got two 360 fe's from a 70 and a 74 and both were in running trucks till not to long ago and if my flatty goes kaput before i get a chance to gather all the neccessary parts im sticking one of them in for a temp fix to keep driving . i love the ol' fe's and they make lots of grunt and are really easy to drive on the street and no one wants the 360's so they are generally cheap . they are only a crank and pistons away from being the more glamorous 390 . at one point there were lots of spent rubber on the street in front of my house from 'em . trans dapt even sells a nice swap kit but i cant remember the part number .

 

You never know, Its worth a shot to try. Worst case scenario is that you have to tear the whole thing apart

Good luck
Bobby

 

The truck moves fine in neutral and in gear with the clutch in. It's just the motor that won't turn over. I'll try some PB Buster or mystery oil and let it sit for a couple of days to see if it frees it up. If not' I'll pull the heads and break out the ole 2x4 and ballpeen.

 

it took almost 5 gallons of deisel { free thanx to being a truck driver ! } and two weeks of putting the ol' heave ho on mine but geuss what , im driving it !!!! just be patient ..... now if that consarned riffety raff mojo suckin' 37 would cooperate or i'm gonna beat it with a sledge hammmer ............