Well guys, as promised, here are some pictures of the project that I have been working on over the past 2 days.

If anyone has had a problem with blown oil filters, get ready for a couple days work at least.


the pan with a lot of sludge and grease!!!




What its supposed to look like



One blown filter!




I don't think those grooves are there for oil passages



The 360 back to OEM specs






I believe thats a skirted piston verifying the 360 crank, as indicated by another forum member (sorry, forgot your name, but thanks!)
So now that the engine is not leaking any oil, its on to the tranny filter and gasket. Then the brakes....etc...etc... Well for now its reliable and running strong Thanks for the info guys and I hope you liked the pics

 

I had mentioned the skirted piston meaning a 360, and a non skirted piston meaning a 390 to you in an earlier post,

Jess

 

The usual cause for leaky, split open or blown oil filters is someone used a wrench to tighten them up. HAND TIGHTEN ONLY!

 

One small point...get that POS Fram filter off of there and go down to NAPA and get a 1515, which is a quality filter made by Wix. Motorcraft filters are good too.

Fram used to make one of the best filters on the market, then they got bought out and cheapened up, and the quality of their filters went straight into the crapper.

 

I've seen that before from using off brand Oil Filters & nothing else wrong.
AHh Err Uumm except a less than OEM spec' filter being installed.

I have to agree with Dan, as well as "N-D" Bill, good filters & no wrenches!

It had to be run a while to gall that pump that way.

On my race engines I run a relay off an oil pressure sender. If I drop Oil PSI suddenly,
my sender signals a relay & ignition circuit opens stopping system from firing.

The ol' slang, or colloquial name is "Murphy Switch". They save engines.

However as originally said so do OEM Spec rated (or better) Oil Filter Assy's.

FBp

 

No pics of the timing chain? Did you replace it also?

Glad to hear it's back running smooth again(with normal oil pressure).

 

Glad to see that it is fixed. Congrats! Kinda scary with that hammer in the picture tho! Hope you didn't have to use it too much!

 

well the Bosch filter that ended up in the scrap bin was on there before, and I had personally turned it a 1/4 turn after it had made contact with the stand. I always appreciate everybodys comments and consider them. As far as Fram goes, I had a boss at Skips auto and machine (where I had worked down in Seaside Ca ) tell me that Fram and Wix were the same and had cut both of them open to show as a desplay. You can only trust ones word so much. Plus I have used them for the 8 years that have been working on cars and never experienced this problem before. But I will definitely consider the filters from now on. Thanks again Jess for the info. Its good to know what your tearing apart down in the carport before the landlord shows up!! Thats a great idea FBP for the kill switch. I never thought of that! Good insurance! For some reason I didn't post a pic with the timing gears and chain, and Yes I changed them. Surprisingly they wern't the old nylon ones either. They just had nomal ware and tear on em. The only leak left is the tranny Filter and gasket and that should be replaced by the next monday!!
-----------Kevin

P.S. The hammer was only in the tool box for when I have to fix my friends Chevys....LOL

 

Fram and Wix used to be of about equal quality...but not any more. Cut open some new ones and compare them, it's kinda scary. Or read this page, where a guy did it for you. Very interesting reading:

http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oilfilterstudy.html

 

good link there Dan! lots of neet stuff in that one

 

My son and I are having the same problem on a 1970 390 f-250 p/u, blown filter at idle now...... we are trying to replace the oil pump, but are getting frustrated at trying to remove the pan. We can't find a book older than 73. We have removed the mount nuts but can't get the engine to lift up off of them so we can pull the pan. Can we jack up the engine by the crank or only by the pan? the angle on the front of the pan is causing problems with jacking. any suggestions.....

 

Original factory shop manuals: faxonautolit.com.

1964/72 Ford Truck Parts Catalog on a CD: hipoparts.com.

 

Aw the old blown oil filter. YeP My brother had the samething happening. He was not the kind of guy that would change offen. like every 8 to 10,000 miles. Ha just kept adding then when it was so thick like Tar he would change it.. The oil psi gauge would go almost to the end of the meter at startup when cool. Ha his pan looked like the one in the pix. After replacing the oil pump. Then he got the message why we change it more offen..Another way to blow the filter seal is by not lubing it when installing it. The seal will grab and try to roll out of it's seat and not tighten up right. then on startup out rolls the seal..This can happen easy when you don't add oil to the filter when doing a oil change. On FE Truck filters sit side ways mount.. Mind is from a car and mounts vertical so ez to add oil when reinstalling it when doing an oil change never a dry filter at start up..my 2cents
orich

 

The block spacers that I used were 7 1/2 on the passenger side and 6 3/8 on the drivers side. Just locate the spacers in such a fasion so that the drivers side is on the corner of the engine block where the filter stand is located(remove the stand and replace the gasket) and the passenger side is wedged between the crossmember where it starts to incline up to the fender. Both the wood is cut square on the ends and there is no "V" in place with the exception of the 2x4 used to Jack up the crank. I jacked it up using a 2x4 with a V cut in it at the end to hold the wood inplace on the crankshaft. The way I figured it, the amount of bearings on the shaft should be able to support the weight of the engine long enough to get the spacers in place. I have never done this procedure before but it was a complete success. Another hint is to remove the pickup tube and screen combo from the pump so the pan has enough room to slideout twoard the front of the engine compartment. I believe its a 1/2 in. wrench. The bolts on it had a lock washers so I just snugged them up when I could "Feel" them flatten. also if the truck has a auto tranny, remove the bolts that hold the radiator in place and raise the radiator high enough so that the pan will clear. The oil coolent lines do bend but be careful. This will keep you from draining and bleading the tranny coolent system. Later tonight I can post a pic with the blocks inplace in case you need pics to get your bearings so to speak.
Also I had replaced the timing gears when I removed the pan but I desided to install the cover before the pan so it is possible to pull the pan without the removal of the timing cover. It is just harder to feel where the bolts are. Especially sence thats the first time I have done all that work by myself. Believe me, I thought that engine was going to puke oil out of every gasket. I was definatlly worried But have faith in yourself.
good luck and send us pics of the crap you pull out!!!!!
----------------------Kevin


P.S. DO NOT JACK UP THE ENGINE BY THE PAN. It will screw up the pickup tube and screen if something goes wrong. Just be safe and go off of the crank. If anyone posts otherwise, they might have a good reason or more knowledge. I would do what seems right and also ask plenty of questions if you are not sure. My way might not be the best thanks...

 

Sorry it's blurry, but you should get a good idea of where to place the blocks. Good Luck!