new look..
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Senior User
Joined: Oct 2007
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new look..
my 89 has the classic two tone, green / ivory paint. i am looking to give her a new look. it needs a little body work around the bed and here and there... nothing major at all. i could live with it if it was one color and didnt look beat up... and there is a little surface rust on top of the cab.
i am thinking a light sand and doing like a dark primer and leave it like that... just to keep costs to a min.
any suggestions? (please be specific, body work is new to me)
thanks!
i am thinking a light sand and doing like a dark primer and leave it like that... just to keep costs to a min.
any suggestions? (please be specific, body work is new to me)
thanks!
Junior User
Joined: Sep 2007
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If I understand you correctly, you are going to leave it in primer? Don't know if this is true anymore but in my gearhead days 30 years ago we were taught that primer is water absorbant. Therefore, leaving it in primer is worse as it will draw the moisture. If you like the look of just primer, which I actually do, then you must put a sealer coat over it. A flat clear coat would work I would think.
Brett
Brett
Elder User
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 829
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From: Goose Creek SC
Welcome to FTE
If you have bubbles in the paint......you have rust in the metal. Maybe even through. Sand it down to bare metal.......if you are lucky it'll just be pitted and you can use a glaze to smooth it out. If not....you'll have holes and you'll need some filler. Lots of products to use.......Bondo is very popular for small jobs and makes a glaze in a small tube for the pits.
Haynes manuals are good for a first-timer....pics and good advice.
Metal prep products in spray cans are good after you sand...some help to retard further rust.
As said above......take your time. Body work is tedious and time-consuming to me........might have to go over a spot 2-3 times to get a paintable finish. If it aint smooth before you paint......it'll show right through after.
Primer will absorb water unless you seal it as said before. If left unsealed it will start surface rust.
It's a very satisfying feeling after you get it done. Go slow and enjoy the results.
Good Luck
Bob
If you have bubbles in the paint......you have rust in the metal. Maybe even through. Sand it down to bare metal.......if you are lucky it'll just be pitted and you can use a glaze to smooth it out. If not....you'll have holes and you'll need some filler. Lots of products to use.......Bondo is very popular for small jobs and makes a glaze in a small tube for the pits.
Haynes manuals are good for a first-timer....pics and good advice.
Metal prep products in spray cans are good after you sand...some help to retard further rust.
As said above......take your time. Body work is tedious and time-consuming to me........might have to go over a spot 2-3 times to get a paintable finish. If it aint smooth before you paint......it'll show right through after.
Primer will absorb water unless you seal it as said before. If left unsealed it will start surface rust.
It's a very satisfying feeling after you get it done. Go slow and enjoy the results.
Good Luck
Bob
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thank you very much for the info...
so,
1. get the body to where i want it...
2. sand it to bare metal (what kind of paper? use it on a compressor?)
3. primer (any recomendations? do they have like dark primer colors?)
4. sealer (any recomendations?)
as far as the body goes... there isnt any bubbles in the paint. there is light surface rust on the top of the cab, but no holes anywhere... a couple dings here and there and lots of little dings along the bed rails. if some of that stuff was just smoothed down and i got the new color (primer) and sealed it, id be very happy.
so,
1. get the body to where i want it...
2. sand it to bare metal (what kind of paper? use it on a compressor?)
3. primer (any recomendations? do they have like dark primer colors?)
4. sealer (any recomendations?)
as far as the body goes... there isnt any bubbles in the paint. there is light surface rust on the top of the cab, but no holes anywhere... a couple dings here and there and lots of little dings along the bed rails. if some of that stuff was just smoothed down and i got the new color (primer) and sealed it, id be very happy.
Elder User
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 829
Likes: 1
From: Goose Creek SC
Yep......get the body so it looks good to you....sanded areas have to be smooth and blend into the rest of the paint or lines and ridges will show in the paint
Air sanders are good........I don't know grit.........I get a medium/rough one for the initial sanding......then a fine for finishing.......I also use a hand block to finish sand and feather into the remaining paint.
I've seen light and dark gray and red primers. Just a clearcoat over it would seal it.
Go down in the body work forum and post for the right grits and probly way better advice.
Good Luck
Bob
Air sanders are good........I don't know grit.........I get a medium/rough one for the initial sanding......then a fine for finishing.......I also use a hand block to finish sand and feather into the remaining paint.
I've seen light and dark gray and red primers. Just a clearcoat over it would seal it.
Go down in the body work forum and post for the right grits and probly way better advice.
Good Luck
Bob
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Joined: Sep 2003
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From: Rockford, Il
hey 89 big6 check out a thread in the bronco forum here on fte. aw hell i cant remember the name. ok go to the bronco section and do a search for a user cje07 he is painting a bronco with a product called durabak, it is right up your alley. in fact my 89 f250 4x is getting the same treatment. the durabak will address your rust issues it comes in several colors and a million times more durable than primer. good luck. Dan