Been thinking on using my F100 for a tow dingy. However, I have a few questions I must answer and I would like your guys help in answering them.

One of the main reasons I really need to do this is so that I can take my Motorhome in for additions or repairs and have a way to get home without forcing a friend or the wife into two 140mile roundtrips with me. Unfortunately, it really too bad I don't have a good RV shop around here that can get stuff done in a couple of weeks or so.

The truck:

1973 F100 Shortbed 2WD with 360 Motor and C6 tranny.

The questions:

1) How much do you think this truck weights?

2) Do you think a 500Lbs tow bar would be enough to tow it off of the back of my 30ft Motorhome with Ford (363HP)V10?

3) What's the best way to attach it. Weld / Bolt ? Where ? I'm thinking with pull pins.

4) Have you towed a similar truck?

5) How does it track behind a motorhome?

6) How does it track behind another PU?

7) How do you think it would track behind a 4200lbs Pathfinder. I tow a 5000lbs boat .... but that trailer has surge brakes and it's awesome.
This is a secondary concern... but, I may have to someday.

8) If I was to setup the F100 as a towable the wife wants A/C in the F100. Can someone give me an idea what I'm in for to convert mine over? Price and work.

9) On this setup do I have to disconnect the driveline each time I tow it.... Or, is it OK to leave the driveshaft bolted up to the C6. If a disconnect is needed how would you do it? Unbolt, leave it in place and wire it up with coat hanger / chain. Pull it and plug the tranny with a second yoke? Better suggestions?

I know that's a lot of questions but, I just went through a huge ordeal trying to make my Pathfinder flat towable and just before we ordered the parts we realized that it can't be flat towed really .... due to the center locking differential.

Anyone willing to weld or bolt a towbar to my F100 for me? If so, could you PM me your fee?

I expect to tow this truck all over the country but, mostly in the flatlands or low hills of California. Like from Livermore to the Coast or Clearlake for example. No Great Divide treks are planned.

Lastly, any other suggestions pertaining to tow lights, inexpensive tow braking systems and the like would be appreciated too.

Thank you for your responses in advance.

 

Check the towing specifications on your motorhome. Mine has a maximum rating of 5,000 lbs. That F100 is one heavy chunk of steel. The back of the motorhome usually has a lot of overhang and that additional leverage will exaggerate the normal towing stresses. An overweight toad (towed, get it? ) may cause unexpected damage. Most of the people I know that pull a car along prefer a lighter vehicle as they tend to use it as extra storage space and like to build in a little slack.

The other dynamics are like any other trailer. With a front tow bar, in the condition your truck is in, it will just track behind happily.

 

The weight of your truck might be on your registration and/or pink slip
stated as "unlaiden weight".

 

I just had my '70 F250 high boy (4x4) weighed. I took out the spare tire and jack. It does not have power steering, power brakes or AC. It does have a really heavy transfer case though. The total weight was 4730 lbs.

I hope that helps a little.
karl

 

On tow lights: There are kits available to tap into your trucks normal lighting and plug it in like any other trailer. Check someplace like Camping World.

 

AJ, check your PM...and bring a big wad of cash!!!!

I'll charge you the same as I charge anyone else who brings thier crap to me.

 

Ok, so I bought a new towbar today at UHaul. 5000lbs bar that you can bolt to the bumper.

What I'd like to do is fab up a base plate or bar to go between the frame rails below the bumper and mount the tow bar's fitting to that. It's a nice one with quick disconnect pins so I can take it off when not in use.

I plan on getting a brake kit or some sort of surge system after a few months so I can come down hills with ease. I will take level routes until then mostly.

If the truck is under 4500lbs I'm good. I tow a boat that is 5000lbs. The tow bar I just bought is rated at 5000lbs. The motorhome can tow the 5000lbs with ease. The hitch is rated at 6000lbs. Motor home weights in at 11,400lbs. fully loaded with fluids and gear. GCVW is 18000lbs. so I should be good there. It's the braking coming downhill that I'm worried about.

Mike PM'd you back .... ;-)

Thanks you guys....

Any one know of a cheap surge or electric brake system that can be added. If I could find a good used one...... That would be awesome.

 

Got your PM and replied...we can discuss some options (probably future options) for the setup.

 

I'll pick up a light kit and get that out of the way this weekend. I'll have to figure out a diode set up for that. No way do I want to burn out the motorhomes lights.

Thanks for your help Mike !!!! I'll send you some points..... ;-) if I can yet.

Doh, I hate that rule..... I have to spread some around first....

 

mecinoid- I took care of the rep points for Mike.

karl

 

Thx Karl - Your da man !!!

 

Will do, Thx AnoldDog ..... I want bear stew.... reminds me .... hunting season.

 

Woot !!!! - unlaiden weight = 3350. That's over a thousand pounds lighter than what I was thinking of towing. Oh how sweet it is! I don't even think I'll feel that thing back there. I'm excited now !!!!

Thanks sierraben .... I didn't think to look there.

 

re: the weight, what I've noticed is take the GVR and subtract the payload on the sticker/plate...kinda gets you closer.

PS...I don't need no stinking points...I'm about to show my hairy beer belly to those who'll look...

Arrgghh!...betcha wished ya hadn't done it now, huh?

Thanks Karl

 

Uhh, AJ...not to **** in your Cheerios here but you're right, since you have a C6 auto in that truck you'll need to disconnect the driveshaft each time you tow it. It's pump is driven off the convertor, which means that when the engine isn't running there's no oil being circulated through the tranny to lube parts that will be moving when it's being towed. This will trash the tranny in fairly short order unless you unbolt the driveshaft from the rear end when it's being towed. I would just leave it in the tranny and bungee or otherwise secure the south end of the shaft up under the truck out of the way, tape ther u-joint bearing cups in place so they don't fall off, and then of course you then have to bolt it up again when you need to drive it. This will get old pretty fast, I fear...