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Just a little box with legs that go through the firewall. Same one used through 79 kinda like steering gears. Get a replacement, some new heater hose and have it all changed out in an hour.
It could be a good time to flush the coolant if it hasn't been done in a few years.
If your has AC its a little more complicated. The Freon must be recovered before the lines can be removed.
A/C on Ford trucks was not integral with the heater till 1967 (prior to 1967, it was an add on under dash unit. the 1967/72 economy A/C unit was still separate from the heater till 1973). There's also no connection with heater hoses and A/C hoses on Fords till at least the 1980's. The heater hoses run from the firewall to the intake manifold and waterpump, separate of any air cond. hoses.
Last edited by NumberDummy; Oct 11, 2007 at 02:46 PM.
i replaced the heater core on mine in 04' and boy it was one of the easiest i have ever done! took all about 45 mins to an hour and i was rolling again.. wish all the newer vehicles were just as easy!
Numberdummy, I have a 68 with factory air and they are integerated into 1 unit. I can post a pict if you need it. They case does split and allow you to replace the heater core and/or evap. But you must remove the unit as a assembly.
Numberdummy, I have a 68 with factory air and they are integerated into 1 unit. I can post a pict if you need it. They case does split and allow you to replace the heater core and/or evap. But you must remove the unit as a assembly.
Yes, I said that in previous post.
Only the economy add on air was separate from the heater thru 1972. The deluxe Select-Aire unit was integral with the heater beginning in 1967.
Having all the Genuine Ford Car & Truck Parts Catalogs (and most important - knowing how to use them) from 1948 thru 1992 precludes me from needing a picture, but thanks for the offer.
After working on this integerated unit it would be better if they would be seperate. It would sure make plumbing the heater core easy. The high stress 90 deg bends in the heater hose are bad design, since the molded hoses are no longer available. The only rust I had inside the cab was where the heater core/hose leaks to the floor pan.
If you happen to have this, use a 1/2" OD spring inside the hose to keep from kinking the heater hose. This seams to work better than the outer molded 90 deg clamps.
when replacing heater core, make sure the legs are the same length as original. just replaced one on a 75 and the legs were 1" too long. might have clearance on older trucks but i had to cut the legs off to get that one in
very easy to do, piece of cake.
all i must say is if your truck has a little vent on the passenger side and the on position blows cold air into your cab, while the off position pushes cold air through your heater core and then through your vents at all times, then take that silly boot off of it, stuff an old tshirt in there, and then cover it with duct tape. this will cause the heater to get its air supply from inside the cab instead of the outside freezing cold air. which in turn causes your heat to be roastin and will bake your butt. a great mod that i am glad i did.
awesome. is it a good tight fit? sometimes theres some space around the sides and you want to get a good seal, so i cut up some strips of styrofoam insulation i stole from work and shoved them in there.
When i replaced the one on my '72 a few yrs ago, they asked me if the truck had air or not. The only dif I could see between the 2 cores is that one had longer nipples on it. Either one would have fit.