I'm looking at the Edelbrock Performer RPM Power Package for my 1969 f250 with a 390. This combination of heads, intake, carb and cam is supposedly good for over 400 HP.

Has anybody used this package?

I just checked the compression last night: 140- 153 PSI , evenly distributed among all 8 cylinders. Will I need to rebuild the bottom end? It was supposed to have been rebuilt about 8k miles ago, but I don't know what kind of job was done.

If I do need to rebulid the bottom end, what/where should I go for for crank, pistons/rings, rods etc?

I greatly appreciate any help.

Thanks,

Greg

69 F250, C6, Dana 60 w/4.10s

 

If the oil pressure is OK then go for it!! I think the edlebrock heads are too expensive for my taste. Reworked stock heads are fine for me. Do your heads have hardened exhaust seats?? Good time to find out
You could do all of it.. Except the heads.. and be a happy camper.

Some guys like the Crane brand of cams better than edlebrock..
iam not partial my self..

Good luck, let us know how it works out!



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The Ed package is excellent, but maybe too much for a truck, depending on what type of driving you do. I don't care for the RPM cam because it's just too much for a heavy truck, the intake and heads are excellent but the heads are a bit of a waste of money.

Standard FE heads with some port work are good up to about 400~450 HP and are good choices for a mid range powerband. The intake is an excellent choice for almost any build, but I'd look elsewhere for a cam, I like the Crower power beast 292H for agressive mid range power.

Long style headers, RPM intake, Holley 600 vac sec, electronic ign upgrade will do a lot for the FE.

Your compression numbers are fine, I'd look at the oil pressure to see if the rest of the engine is good.

 

I would highly recomend the rpm intake, its what I use and despite some neighsayers it works well on a truck. From everything I've heard the rpm cam is a bit radical for a truck, if you search this forum the popular cam has been mentioned several times (can't remember at the moment). I prefer massaged iron heads too...but sometimes they can end up costing you near what the edels would to begin with. Lots of guys of run the edel heads on fe's and I haven't heard any bad experiences yet. Don't forget a hot electric ignition and don't get cheap on the headers...I'd stick with tri-ys on a truck.

If your knuckles ain't bleeding you did something wrong.

'72 F-250 "Hi-Boy" 4x4, Dana 60/HD44, FE428 @ 400+ ponies , 4-speed, custom suspension w lift, mud on black.

 

Thanks for the info. The Edelbrock parts are on the way, even the pricey heads. I like the fact that they have a package of components proven to work together, even if I had to pay a little extra.

Why the concern over being in a truck? (FYI , this is a regular cab, 2wd with 4.10 gears) I understand that the torque gains are minimal compared to the HP, but I shouldn't see much if any loss of Torque at the lower RPM, should I? As compared to the current stock setup.

Anyway, those parts are on the way. The Edelbrock package does not show an ignition system. Is there one in particular, that you have had good performance from? MSD, Mallory, Crane, Jacobs etc.? Jacobs also offers a complete system (control, coil, and wires, somewhat pricey, but again I like the package idea))

I have also ordered some Doug Thorley Headers. They certainly weren't the cheapest. I hope that is reflected in the build quality. I have also ordered the Fel-Pro performance gasket kit, any issues I should be aware of here?

Thanks again for any information. I'll be coming back with any progress or regress :-)

Greg

 

I've heard to have a valve job done on the ED heads as soon as you get them because the valves dont always seal the best, but other than that only 1 real complaint I can think of

 

You can probably get away with that package in a light 2wd, but it will not be a torque monster down low. It is definitely giving up power off-idle to 2000rpm. I agree, my Ebrock heads had a terrible valve job from the factory, they wouldn't even pull vacuum on my machinist's Serdi machine.

 

Its true that it won't be as much of a concern in a lighter 2wd truck. The Doug Thorleys are a great header, I run Stans but they are pretty much identicle, you did good on that choice. I'd get them ceramic coated if I were you though...its the only way to run headers. I prefer the MSD system, I've ran it in a couple of my rigs and have been nothing but happy. I've heard the odd complaint about some of the other set-ups, but never about the MSD except for the cost. I hadn't heard that about the valves on the edel heads, but then, I guess thats why I've always preferred the massaged iron logs. 'Sides which, folks always are talking about the weight savings but what do I care? I drive a 3/4 ton 4x4 for crying out loud.

If your knuckles ain't bleeding you did something wrong.

'72 F-250 "Hi-Boy" 4x4, Dana 60/HD44, FE428 @ 400+ ponies , 4-speed, custom suspension w lift, mud on black.

 

I've heard the Jacob's setup won't work with the stock Ford trigger, but you might want to call them about that. The MSD and Crane have excellent reps.

I'm concerned about the cam choice, the RPM heads, RPM intake are a great combo, but I'd call a few cam shops and ask about what they offer vs the specs on the RPM cam. I prefer the Crower cams, but haven't compared it to others.

I think the RPM cam is a single pattern design and they just don't offer much for selection, Crower has many FE cams, Edelbrock has just 2. I can't imagine that you can get a good 'purpose built' cam from a company that only offers 2 cams for an engine where other companies offer so much more.

either way, you can always change it later if you don't like it, but I'm guessing that you'll give up too much bottom end with that cam, the other parts are a great choice.

 

Karljay is right, the edel rpm cam is a single...which is one of the reasons its not typically the best choice in a truck. I guess its all about what you want. If you're really building this engine up, and making your truck into a hot rod I think you'll be happy with that cam. It will have a lopey idle. But if you just want a strong regular driver you may want to reconsider. To be honest, I'd think you'd probably be happier with a good dual-pattern either way though.

If your knuckles ain't bleeding you did something wrong.

'72 F-250 "Hi-Boy" 4x4, Dana 60/HD44, FE428 @ 400+ ponies , 4-speed, custom suspension w lift, mud on black.

 

I just got through building a 390 w/ the edelbrock heads and RPM intake. It is not bolt on if your cam is over .500 lift. The rockers need to be shimmed over due to the valves are spaced .060 farther apart. I used TRW forged flat top pistons and had to grind the valve pocket to get the valve clearance I needed on the exhaust valves. They do flow alot of air. My truck ****s out at 5300 but its from the mallory unilite, so stay away from mallory. I called comp cams and told then how my truck is built and how I'll use it so they ground me a custom cam . It cost about the same as a shelf bought cam.What is the tube diamiter of your headers. The 1.75 dia tubes everyone uses for the headers for these trucks block a part of the exhaust port.Do use the felpro gaskets that edelbrock suggests.

 

That reminds me, I had to oblong the header bolt holes to get it to match properly. I run Hooker super comps and spend quite a bit of time getting them to match up properly and the gaskest were off by a BUNCH. I had to cut them up to get a proper seal.

Either way, it's worth the time to take some wax paper and draw out the image of the ports and bolt holes and see how they match to the headers.

 

The fun has begun!!!

The engine is out of the Truck. This took some work. I must find a good place to hook up the shop crane that keeps the engine level for the re-entry attempt.

Headers: The Thorley's I had on order are back-ordered, are there any out there that match the monsters used by Edelbrock with this package? 2.125" pipes , I believe.

Adjustable Valve train: Now that I've read the fine print for the Cam. What needs to be adjustable, Rockers, pushrods or both? Any reccomendations here?

Finally: the rod that apparently operates the oil pump fell out while disassembling the engine. Does the pointed end go towards the cam or the pump? Should there have been something holding this in?

I'm now at the point where I'm wondering if my project truck will ever run again :-)

Thanks,

Greg

 

Ah yes, the FE oil pump driveshaft problem. . . this happened to me when I was putting mine back together. I put the bottom end back together, bolted on the oil pump spun the engine around, and heard a clink somewhere in the bottom of the engine: oil pump drive shaft! I believe what you are looking for is not a pointy or non pointy end but a little retainer thingy that keeps the shaft from falling all the way through and playing around in the oil pan or working its way up too far and then falling into the oil pan. So here's what you do: when you're putting everything together, you usually start with the engine upside down. When you're ready to put the oil pump back on, stick the oil pump shaft in its little spot with the retainer thingy facing up, then put the oil pump on. Flip the engine back over right side up while holding the drive shaft to make sure it does not go awol. Then put the top end back on (you already had the engine set at TDC before you flipped it) and put the distributor back on, making sure it engages the drive shaft properly. You can do this by twisting the shaft and observing if the distributor turns. It won't turn a whole lot because the gear on the cam is holding it put, but you should be able to discern a little movement. Once you get everything in place on top, flip it back over. The engine will do this pretty easily thanks to the mega heavy intake. Of course, you'll have a shiny new aluminum top end, but I bet the center of gravity will still be toward the top of the motor. Be careful! Now you can put the oil pan back on, get a few friends and a really long cheater bar, and turn the motor back over right side up.

Now, I'm not 100% sure about the exact location of that retainer on the drive shaft, but I believe you insert the drive shaft from the bottom of the engine into the distributor tunnel with the retainer toward the top so that it's sandwiched between the block and the oil pump and only moves so much--not enough to fall out. If someone else out there knows better, set me straight.