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almost 2am...getting in from getting truck ready to start. got the valve train ckd again and ready to go...decided to prime the oil system again since it's been a while and I thought it would be good to get more of the milk down in the pan to settle.
The priming tool broke and left some metal on the top of the oil pump rod...and some fell off...it split and came apart as if tempered too much...got some out with a magnet and should have washed the rest down into the pan with oil and air...arrrg.
dist is stabbed...getting close to running it. I'm not liking the comp cam lifters...seems like they are flat ie you will move the valve before you see the lifter take some pre-load...we'll see how it goes but made sure the valves remain seated and a bit loose rather than error on tight...
From now on I'll be using adjustable valve trains... more expensive but unless your building stock and get lucky or are willing to fudge on geometry it's worth the $.
I just made a tool for priming the distributor, it's just a drill bit extension with a 1/4" socket on it. I was priming it, and tried taking the whole thing out and the damn socket fell out of the extension and into the oil pan. That was frustrating, had to pull the oil pan to get it out, now the pan seems like it leaks a little bit now, but heck i dont care, too much work to take that thing down again.
But in the end i just welded the socket to the extension, worked fine after that.
But your lifters are probably moving before they open the valve because they're hydraulic, and they dont have any oil pressure in them to lift exactly like they're supposed to. If you were doing some kind of test on your valvetrain you'd have to fab up some kind of solid lifter in there.
But yeah, the fully adjustable valvetrain is the way to go, it's not really that much more expensive, but it's a LOT of work to get it all set up right.
Yes, with the pedestal rockers, all bets are off as to valve position when tightening the rockers. It will run like crap until it gets some oil pressure and tries to run for a few seconds. It should then smooth out and be okay.
The Crane kit for putting in studs works very well for a street engine. You need to clean the threads with carb or brake cleaner and blow them out with compressed air, then use the thread locker that comes with them. If you do this correctly the studs and guide plates work great. I put mine in and then used Big Block Chevy rocker arms. It has worked out great as a fully adjustable valve train for reasonable cost.
i run that same crane coversion setup too, its a simplistic design but works pretty good, i also put a stud girdle on it too, only because i run a little more spring pressure that i'd trust em with, plus i dont run baffles in the valve covers and i figured the girdle would help keep the oil out of the breathers a tad better too
I got the beast running last night and so far so good. I have to get the floorpans finsihed and the seat in to drive it. It sounds and feels amazing...especially once it hits 3k or so...
can't explain the feel but it knows its related to a hipo engine for sure...rumbles and roars.
comp cams hyd roller cam 212, 218 @.050. oz 2v heads, tim's (9.5)kb pistons, scorpion roller rockers, romac balancer yada yada. Might be able to burn premium but designed for propane...running on premium and some lucas octane booster for now. about 8.3 dynamic compression. Will do more tuning on thurs might have a vacuum problem...
doubt i'll mud it...but i would like to make a trip up north. Wait till i get that '75 highboy crewcab done up...it will be my travel rig....someday...year.
i have a bronco i might mud...not me behind the wheel but maybe daughter or something. One decent hit or bad shake and i'm out of action for a while- bad neck bone and lower back bone... screwed, plated and glued so to speak.
I do have plans for the '79 bronco....was looking at it today.... put a 400 back in it-out with the 385...take out the back seat and put in a 80 gal propane tank, design a rollbar to hold tire and gear.
Lift it but would want exceptional/y long and soft travel to take the bite out of the trails for me... i think i could get back into 4 wheeling then...at least mild stuff.