"Miles Per Gallon" -vs- "Dollars Per Gallon". There is more to it than we think...
#1
10-06-2007, 07:36 PM
"Miles Per Gallon" -vs- "Dollars Per Gallon". There is more to it than we think...
I have had cause to reconsider what really IS the least expensive vehicle to own and drive lately, and here is a part of that:
(from another thread)
Diesel -vs- gas is another factor, expected repairs and upkeep are a factor, even if we do our own. So the TOTAL COST per mile is not quite what it might seem at face value - and in planning from the start for a very low "cashflow impact" ride, there are a few more considerations that I'd like to pin down.
I'd like to kick some ideas around and see what rattles out the bottom of this.
Anybody have some thoughts on it?
Originally Posted by myself
I got on the phone to an insurance guy (I can't name the company - sorry) the other day, and was looking over what cost what - trying to find way to shave some $$$ off of my monthly payments, but mainly looking at what a 1993 Suzuki Swift would cost to insure if I switched to it from the truck.
Believe it or not - in the USA it is MORE EXPENSIVE to get liability and collision on a high mileage imported car than it is to cover a quarter ton truck like the Ranger! Seriously....
The Ranger is almost $50.oo a month cheaper to insure than a 1300cc econobox from outside the country. In my case, nearly 50% cheaper.
So, after a day to think about it I called the guy back and asked: "Is there such a thing as a very small truck or a car that is less expensive to insure than my truck is?" and the answer is yes, there is.
But the basis is somewhat screwy.
REGARDLESS if we are only talking about liability to THE OTHER VEHICLE in an accident, the insurance company rates take into account how expensive it is to fix YOUR OWN vehicle - and that's what they base the rates on.
Imported cars (He told me) are more expensive, and there are fewer parts for them, even in junk yards. So what is better is a very small american car or truck, that we have plenty of stuff on the shelf for.
Example in point: Escorts, Festiva's, Fiesta's, etc...
In counter-point: The EXP is out, because they all went by-by and no support is out there for them either.
Now, it stands to reason that an EXP could be re-engined with a cross mount engine out of something else, but the rates are based on the chassis itself so that wouldn't be too helpful.
- Just some ideas to keep in mind here that also feed into the total dollar-per-mile factor. The insurance factor is also money out of pocket.
Oh by the way: A Volkswagen Beetle is also more expensive to get basic L&C coverage on than a ford ranger, believe it or not
Believe it or not - in the USA it is MORE EXPENSIVE to get liability and collision on a high mileage imported car than it is to cover a quarter ton truck like the Ranger! Seriously....
The Ranger is almost $50.oo a month cheaper to insure than a 1300cc econobox from outside the country. In my case, nearly 50% cheaper.
So, after a day to think about it I called the guy back and asked: "Is there such a thing as a very small truck or a car that is less expensive to insure than my truck is?" and the answer is yes, there is.
But the basis is somewhat screwy.
REGARDLESS if we are only talking about liability to THE OTHER VEHICLE in an accident, the insurance company rates take into account how expensive it is to fix YOUR OWN vehicle - and that's what they base the rates on.
Imported cars (He told me) are more expensive, and there are fewer parts for them, even in junk yards. So what is better is a very small american car or truck, that we have plenty of stuff on the shelf for.
Example in point: Escorts, Festiva's, Fiesta's, etc...
In counter-point: The EXP is out, because they all went by-by and no support is out there for them either.
Now, it stands to reason that an EXP could be re-engined with a cross mount engine out of something else, but the rates are based on the chassis itself so that wouldn't be too helpful.
- Just some ideas to keep in mind here that also feed into the total dollar-per-mile factor. The insurance factor is also money out of pocket.
Oh by the way: A Volkswagen Beetle is also more expensive to get basic L&C coverage on than a ford ranger, believe it or not
Diesel -vs- gas is another factor, expected repairs and upkeep are a factor, even if we do our own. So the TOTAL COST per mile is not quite what it might seem at face value - and in planning from the start for a very low "cashflow impact" ride, there are a few more considerations that I'd like to pin down.
I'd like to kick some ideas around and see what rattles out the bottom of this.
Anybody have some thoughts on it?
#3
10-06-2007, 08:23 PM
Well, suppose you have fifty dollars extra going out each month for a particular ride, but you drive relatively short distances to get to work and back. In this case - you might be paying more for incidental expences than you recoup in fuel savings.
If on the other hand you have a very long commute to work - the fuel savings recover what is payed out for other costs.
The question is: Where is the balance?
In my situation (crosses fingers over the replacement transmission) it makes more sense to find work nearer home and leave things much as they are.
If on the other hand you have a very long commute to work - the fuel savings recover what is payed out for other costs.
The question is: Where is the balance?
In my situation (crosses fingers over the replacement transmission) it makes more sense to find work nearer home and leave things much as they are.
#4
10-06-2007, 08:41 PM
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I don't know which is the least expensive to insure on trucks but I can find out when my wife returns from La. She sells ins. I do know my PSD is much cheaper on fuel than my F150 was. If I drive my F250 right I get 17 city mpg & 21 highway. I was very surprised at the mpg this huge truck gets. I expected about 14 city & 18 highway. On my first road trip it used 15 gallons of fuel to go 347 miles. Needless to say I'm very happy with the F250s fuel cost.
#5
10-06-2007, 08:55 PM
#6
10-06-2007, 09:01 PM
So you see that it isn't really about getting the cheapest and skinniest price you can - but more about somewhere in the price range you want to be in, what you can do.
In my case, I need to strip costs down. For someone else there is a middle of the range amount that works, but we still have an issue with VALUE. What provides the best value for the driving you intend to do, and with the means you will allow for it?
With a little forethought it can be dialed in so you get the most from it. It's better to look at it from the front end than to have hindsight later.
I never again want to hear myself say: "DANG! If only I had thought of that..."
In my case, I need to strip costs down. For someone else there is a middle of the range amount that works, but we still have an issue with VALUE. What provides the best value for the driving you intend to do, and with the means you will allow for it?
With a little forethought it can be dialed in so you get the most from it. It's better to look at it from the front end than to have hindsight later.
I never again want to hear myself say: "DANG! If only I had thought of that..."
Last edited by Greywolf; 10-06-2007 at 09:05 PM.
#7
10-06-2007, 09:05 PM
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#11
10-06-2007, 10:02 PM
My commute is 85 miles each way. When I took the orders there, I knew I was going to be driving that distance. I looked for and bought a cheap, reiable small car to do the drive in. I found my Escort and bought it for $500. It needed tires and a few small things (brakes, tune up, etc) and I drove it that way for over a year. Then I had to replace the head. Now I've got about $3300 invested in her. I keep the tires inflated properly (maybe a pound or 2 high) and drie a moderate speed. My 94 scort gets 40 mpg. SO, cheapest cost per mile is going to be no loan on the vehicle, wel maintained (I would expect no less from you, Wolfie) and only liability- and hope you don't get hit by someone uninsured.
#13
10-06-2007, 10:10 PM
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Originally Posted by Greywolf
In my situation (crosses fingers over the replacement transmission) it makes more sense to find work nearer home and leave things much as they are.
#14
10-06-2007, 10:37 PM
we are in the middle of determining to move or not.
when we start going to the university next fall (maybe this one that is), we will be a 1 hour from the place. we were thinking of moving closer but the rent also goes up the closer you get, maintaining the same level of an apartment. would drop down but the cheaper it is, the more ghetto it is.
so i figured after moving and the rent increase, it still is just better to make the drive.
when we start going to the university next fall (maybe this one that is), we will be a 1 hour from the place. we were thinking of moving closer but the rent also goes up the closer you get, maintaining the same level of an apartment. would drop down but the cheaper it is, the more ghetto it is.
so i figured after moving and the rent increase, it still is just better to make the drive.