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I replaced the power valve and it quit burining rich. Now I sorta have the same problem again. If I set the initial timing to about 30 BTDC it idles fine and I can put it in gear. Of course I'm not going to stomp it with the initial at this setting. If it is at 12 BTDC it runs fine wide open but won't let me put it in gear or idle below 900. I'm sorta lost here. I did check the timing with the vaccum advance off just in case you were wondering and putting the advance on makes it gain timing like it should. Even at the 12 BTDC setting the starter gets kicked around when cranking.
I dunno anymore. I set it back to 12BTDC and it runs just like it used to now. I did notice the fuel filter is running almost completely dry. It used to run anywhere from half full to almost completely full. It is brand new but may be defective. My pressure guage and carb have filters so I may just remove it.
[updated:LAST EDITED ON 07-Feb-02 AT 09:38 PM (EST)]At idle the vacuum port of the carb should be closed, if not open the secondaries up. If you have to open up the secondaries past the idle slots you have to create an air leak( drill hole in throttle blade or other ...) some where so you can close the throtles back up.
Vapour pressure will often make the filter look empty - only way to fix that is a vapour bypass back to the tank.
Yeah, I think you might be on to something. I'll have to look into the carb when someone puts it in gear and see what the secondaries do. I forgot to mention that the fuel line on the carb side of the filter is pressurized and the pump side is not after it is shut off. Anyway that is no big deal. Before I left for work the darn thing was still running great. I didn't drive it because it probably would have made me late for work again.
So you are saying that my timing should not change at idle when I disconnect my vaccum advance hose from the dizzy?? It varies about 3 - 5 degrees from hooked to unhooked.
Rat, when you’re idling hook up a vacuum gauge to the ported vacuum on the carb. There should be next to nothing like FE says. If there is then you have the throttle open too far for idling and you’re uncovering the transfer slots. You need to back off the throttle plates to the idle circuit. Maybe the engine needs more air. You can crack open the secondary stop a little more to achieve this or a more radical step would be to drill a small hole in each of the primary throttle plates.
I was under the truck today and found that the vaccum modulator hose had came off so I thought cool, that will fix it. NOPE! but it helped. I can start it and it will run fine and let me put it in gear for a while and then it will start acting up later. When it acts up it will run fine in gear for a little bit and then all of a sudden something will happen and it will immediately die. Start it back up and then after a bit will do it again. Since the starter I got is bad from the store I will have to pull the headers again to change it out. I'm thinking maybe since the blown power valve was causing it to run real rich that maybe the plugs need changed. I'm going to do a complete tune up again and go from there.
That's not a bad idea. I'll cap off all the ports except the dizzy and see how that goes. I can't even get the new starter to turn over the engine anymore. It just grinds away. I hate it when you go through all the trouble of installing a part to find it doesn't work. I'm going to check the flywheel for straightness too.
I think i'd spray the intake with carb cleaner around the edges where it seats onto the block and see if it leaking.If it is leaking it speed up the engine rpm.This whole scenerio sounds like the intake is leaking.An intake leak will do all of the problems you are having. I had one leak so fine it took me almost a week to find it.The carb cleaned trick didnt do the trick.I had dumped engine oil on the entire intake and it started to smoke out the exhaust so I knew I was in the right direction and pulled the intake to find a seperated gasket.Just another avenue for you to look if you didnt correct the problem.
Yeah the thought had crossed my mind. I have absolutely no time anymore. My dad taught me the starting fluid trick. It works well. I am working 60 hour weeks out at the base and 30 hours at the lube rack so my time is limited.