Disc Pad Cracks
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Freshman User
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Disc Pad Cracks
Was going to relube contact points for front brakes. All of the pads(ceramic) had 3 or 4 cracks running across the pads. Pads not excessively worn.
Had no indication of a problem except during visual inspection.
97 Ranger
Had no indication of a problem except during visual inspection.
97 Ranger
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Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 13,851
Likes: 111
From: SW Va
Are these Ford/Motorcraft pads, or another aftermarket brand????
Any signs of overheating on the rotor????
If so, I'd do a caliper sliding pin inspection/rework, do a brake fluid flush with Motorcraft PM-1 DOT-3 fluid, along with replacing the pads & if the rotor has been overheated & shows color signs or cracks, from hard use, or a stuck caliper, I'd replace the rotors.
If things have been hot down there, but you choose not to replace the rotors, I'd at least pull them & repack the inner & outer wheel bearings & replace the grease seals.
I use Motorcraft brake fluid, pads & shoes & haven't had any problems to date.
Let us know what you find & decide to do.
Any signs of overheating on the rotor????
If so, I'd do a caliper sliding pin inspection/rework, do a brake fluid flush with Motorcraft PM-1 DOT-3 fluid, along with replacing the pads & if the rotor has been overheated & shows color signs or cracks, from hard use, or a stuck caliper, I'd replace the rotors.
If things have been hot down there, but you choose not to replace the rotors, I'd at least pull them & repack the inner & outer wheel bearings & replace the grease seals.
I use Motorcraft brake fluid, pads & shoes & haven't had any problems to date.
Let us know what you find & decide to do.
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Freshman User
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Pads Replaced
PawPaw
TNX for reply.
Had already completed almost everything you suggested.
Pads where aftermarket but do not remember brand. Replaced them with
Wagner ThermoQuiet, repacking inner/outer bearings and new seals,flushing the system(did not use Motorcraft Dot 3).
Rotors showed no signs of heat or scoring and caliper not stuck. Cleaned up
and relubed pad contact points.
All seems to be OK. Guess I will have to relube the contact points more often.
TNX Again!
Irv
TNX for reply.
Had already completed almost everything you suggested.
Pads where aftermarket but do not remember brand. Replaced them with
Wagner ThermoQuiet, repacking inner/outer bearings and new seals,flushing the system(did not use Motorcraft Dot 3).
Rotors showed no signs of heat or scoring and caliper not stuck. Cleaned up
and relubed pad contact points.
All seems to be OK. Guess I will have to relube the contact points more often.
TNX Again!
Irv
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Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 2,873
Likes: 0
From: St. Peter
Yeah, sometimes its not always best to put on the most expensive pads you can find. I can imagine that the ceramic pads were up there. I know people who really like the motorcraft. Personally, I buy the wearever golds from advance auto. I hate napa pads, and have never really used the autozone pads. Tires plus uses wagner thermo quiet. They are suppesed to be a good pad. I used them once on my brothers van and they squeak (new rotors and everything, lubed everything possible). I've never heard one of the weaver golds squeak though. I've put on alot of them.
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Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 13,851
Likes: 111
From: SW Va
Originally Posted by irvinf
PawPaw
TNX for reply.
Had already completed almost everything you suggested.
Pads where aftermarket but do not remember brand. Replaced them with
Wagner ThermoQuiet, repacking inner/outer bearings and new seals,flushing the system(did not use Motorcraft Dot 3).
Rotors showed no signs of heat or scoring and caliper not stuck. Cleaned up
and relubed pad contact points.
All seems to be OK. Guess I will have to relube the contact points more often.
TNX Again!
Irv
TNX for reply.
Had already completed almost everything you suggested.
Pads where aftermarket but do not remember brand. Replaced them with
Wagner ThermoQuiet, repacking inner/outer bearings and new seals,flushing the system(did not use Motorcraft Dot 3).
Rotors showed no signs of heat or scoring and caliper not stuck. Cleaned up
and relubed pad contact points.
All seems to be OK. Guess I will have to relube the contact points more often.
TNX Again!
Irv
Sounds like you have a good grip on what you found, we all should be so "eagle eyed" on our under vehicle inpections!!!!
Could have just been a pad material problem, or maybe a sticking/dragging brake caliper, caused it to overheat.
In any case better safe to go the extra lube maintenance mile, than be sorry along side the road somewhere.
I just got the bearing grease & seals yesterday, to do my Rangers 60K wheel bearing service & think I'll do the caliper pins too, while I have things apart down there!!!!
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Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 2,873
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From: St. Peter
I wanted to say that heat probably caused the cracking, but ceramic is so good at disapating heat, that its hard to believe they cracked from it. Thats why they use ceramic, its good at taking and disapating heat. However it is very brittle.
I also agree, thumbs up on the maintainence. You have no idea how sad it is when someone pulls up in a 2005 or 2006 taurus or something, with cigarette butts all over the floor, pop spilled all over the dashboard, check engine light on, abs light on, mirror hanging off the door, etc... because they dont maintain their stuff.
Its funny how many people spend alot of $$$ on a vehicle, but cant afford to maintain it. I think its my biggest pet peeve. All of my vehicles have all the functionality that they did when they left the factory, and are "ALMOST" as clean.
When you are inspecting brakes...
Before you take the wheel off, jack the truck up, and wiggle the tire side to side, and up and down, feeling for any loose parts.
Remove wheel, inspect brake rotor for rust pitting, especially the back side.
Inspect CV boots and sway bar link pins. The link pins are what usually break, causing a clunking noise.
Thumbs up!
I also agree, thumbs up on the maintainence. You have no idea how sad it is when someone pulls up in a 2005 or 2006 taurus or something, with cigarette butts all over the floor, pop spilled all over the dashboard, check engine light on, abs light on, mirror hanging off the door, etc... because they dont maintain their stuff.
Its funny how many people spend alot of $$$ on a vehicle, but cant afford to maintain it. I think its my biggest pet peeve. All of my vehicles have all the functionality that they did when they left the factory, and are "ALMOST" as clean.
When you are inspecting brakes...
Before you take the wheel off, jack the truck up, and wiggle the tire side to side, and up and down, feeling for any loose parts.
Remove wheel, inspect brake rotor for rust pitting, especially the back side.
Inspect CV boots and sway bar link pins. The link pins are what usually break, causing a clunking noise.
Thumbs up!
