I have been through the brakes several times in the course of owning this truck (65 F100). Everything appears to be in good working order. Cylinders, lines, springs, etc. No matter what I do, when I hit the brakes it pulls to one side. I have adjusted these brakes more times than I care to think about. Not always the same side, but you better have a hold of the steering wheel, or your changing lanes involuntarily. Would the porportioning valve do this? I finally said screw it and left it. It doesn't get driven much (this is probably one of the reasons why), mostly as a backup vehicle or out to dinner every now and again. Anyone have any thoughts?

 

cf, Please provide more info. Is the system stock, or has some modification been done? Are there any parts there that didn't come on the truck.

Look on the inside of the rear wheels for a wet look anywhere around.


John

 

No, no aftermarket stuff at all. System is all stock, and everything is in working order-meaning no leaks anywhere, or anything else out of the ordinary. I have visually traced every inch of brake line on this truck.

 

I have the exact same problem! When I first hit the brakes it pulls to one side. Then if I hit them again or increase pressure it may pull to the otherside. If I pump the brakes a couple of times it brakes straight! I am anxious to see what info will come from this post

 

Let me provide some thoughts. Today's brake linings from most of the "common" autopart stores (ex. Raybestos, etc.) are, well- organic junk compared to the materials of 20 years+ ago. If one brake shoe (I assuming you have shoes) was just slightly tighter than the other, the extra heat from friction generated from the first few stops is enough burnish the lining at a different rate than the other shoe, ie. one set of shoes now has just a little more bite than the other which is observed during initial braking, eliminated sometimes by additional foot pressure,but not in all cases.

Try this...
Sand and clean the linings (both sides).
Re-burnish the brakes...while you can go online for the specific procedure, basically,
apply brakes almost but not to the point of lock-up from the following speeds, do not come to a complete stop and drive without touching the brakes in between for about 1 minute..

3 times at 35 mph
3 times at 50 mph
3 times at 70 mph

Let brakes then cool completely for about 1 hour.

If this doesn't work & assuming everything else is functioning correcty, you then have 3 choices...

1. Replace the shoes with another set
2. Replace the shoes with high grade linings such as Carbotech, Wellmen or Hawk
3. Replace the shoes & replace/re-machine the brake drums because one has not been machined correctly

 

Check out the condition of your front suspension- King pins, tierods, radius rod bushings, etc. If any of these are loose it can cause the truck to "dive around" when you hit the brakes.
Good luck,
Craig

 

The only thing that I haven't replaced is the king pins. Does anyone have any advice on how difficult they are to replace?

As soon as I change them I will get the toe in set and maybe that will cure all of the pulling to the left and right

 

Don't forget to check tire pressure and tire size. Uneven tire pressure will definitely create a pull as would different tire size left to right.

 

I will not say that my kingpins are not worn. I know that the radius arm bushings are good. Also the front tires are less than a week old.

 

I have not seen it mentioned, but have you bled them good?

 

Suggest all of the above. Wonder if placing front end on stands, or jack then take each wheel and check for any movement, if so, try and isolate whether the problem is with wheel bearings, king pins, tie rods, etc. Also check see if excess play in steering wheel travel and most importantly alignment. After changing rear drums on my 65 had a heck of a time getting all the air out of the lines, goes without saying, brake pedal must remain depressed when any of the bleed valves are open.

dave

 

If you haven't all ready done so, change the front brake hoses that go from the frame to the wheel cylenders, thats what fixed my pulling problems.

 

Just talked with a fella the other day that said the hoses are the problem.

 

I'll put the hoses on it they aren't that expensive. But yeah the've been bled alot, everytime I have tried to chase this down anyway.

 

My local Carquest has all 3 rubber hoses for less then $75. I found that the internal passage on the rubber lines had swollen almost completely shut when I did my disc conversion. I ran a coat hanger wire through them for giggles and was amased at how much crap was coming out.