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Changing lanes does make it change some, but doesnt cure it. It usually just relieves the pressure I have to input to the steering wheel. Some freeway parts result in a really good pull, and some it will track straight. Some freeway spots are the same thing, every time.
To tell the truth, it has been awhile since I rearched, and cant remember. I think it did. It isnt enough to make me scream, but the more I drive it, the more it bugs me. Hope that makes sense.
Gonna go measure some springs....and frames.....
OK, I measured the springs in a couple different places, the right (passenger) side is consistantly 3/8"-1/2" inch shorter than the drivers. I cant guarantee the floor is super level, as our firehouse is not exactly a palace. But, I am pretty safe saying the right side is low. In my mind, that should make a pull left? Would 3/8" be enough to let the road crown interfere sometimes?
I also tightented the box a bit, and will road test it in the AM.
Did you happen to measure the distance between axles, right and left? Another thing you can measure to make sure you front axle is centered under the truck. I'll try to explain as best I remember. Lay a strait edge up the center of the tire from the ground up, measure the distance from the strait edge to the fender, do the same on the other side, should be the same. If not, you can adjust your track bar to move one way or the other. The added height of your spring may have pulled your axle to the left enough to affect your handling.
thanks zx, I am going to measure more when I get back to my shop, the floors are better. Went one quarter turn tighter on the box, and I would swear it was better. Still pulls a bit, but not as hard. I am thinking it is a combo of the two, and the box has finally worn to the point of being noticable.
Forgive the stupid question, I am/never have been a suspension guru, but can the track bar adjustment change spring/ride heights? I thought that was a set attachment.
Thanks to all for the help. I usually surf the 7.3 forum, since the chassis for me has been pretty much bulletproof. Lord, please dont let that bite me on the way home.
I am by no means any kind of guru. The stock track bar is set for the stock springs. when you raise the suspension, it puts the track bar at a sharper angle, thus shorting in. I don't think 1" would make that much differance. My leveling kit was 2.5" and came with a track bar lowering bracket. It lowered the track bar the same amount I raise the truck, keeping in at the same angle and same length. Looking back, I wish I would have went with the adjustable track bar. I think your truck is like mine and has an adjustable cam washer and nut at the top of the track bar. Should your axle be off center, you can loosen the nut and twist the cam washer to pull it back to center. This may not even be possible and probably a dumb question and thouht, but is there anyway you got one of the spings on backward? It would seem that could cause it to be lower and have you axle setting futher back on one side, which would certianly cause a pull.
The only thing the springs and trac bar should affect is the centering of the steering wheel, not any kind of grabbing pull when the brakes are applied.
True, usless his front axle is not square with the rear. I don't know what the axle being off center(sitting the tire out futher on one side than the other) would do as far as pulling.
Hey mizz, it pulls regardless of brakes or not. The track bar was relocated, and I have a split in the middle, with threads on either side of the split. Havent adjusted it, nor will I, since I am a dolt, but the springs being in backwards may be possible, I am still trying to get to the shop to measure more.
In my mind, a lower spring on the passenger side would make the truck pull left. It seems to be better with the box tightened a 1/4 turn, doesnt seem to pull as hard in places it did a couple days ago. Will update measurements ASAP, and thanks both of you.
Ooops. The rod that goes from the steering box down is the one with the split in it for adjustment. My trackbar, I think, was cut and had a piece welded in to lenghten it when the springs were arched, but I cant find a place to adjust it at all.
The measurements I took look pretty good, and the springs are in the same direction. It was kinda tough to get a good place to measure axle to axle, since the pumpkin takes up some much space. Is there a standard place to measure? I did get one measurement 1/4" off at one time.
I am stumped, and probably going to go with a box after saving a few pennies.
You could probably get by just measuring the distance between the right side tires and the left side tires. The only adjustment on the stock track bar it the to bolt itself. It is mounted using a cam washer/bolt/nut combo. To adjust, loosen the nut, twist the bolt head and this cams the washer/bolt and moves the bar right or left. All this bar does is hold the axle center the truck and keeps it from shifting side to side. My thinking is that it would have to be way off to cause any driving issues. Same with spring height. a little differance shouldn't be noticable. If your s-box has that much play, it's probably time to replace it anyway, certainly not going hurt anything more that your wallet..
Yeah, the ball joints are new, hubs are either new or in spec, new u joints, the whole pizzazz. I had a wheel/hub assembly decide to leave me at 70MPH earlier this year on the left side, (yes, the actual "you picked a fine time to leave me loose wheel" thing happened. Didnt scare me, but I was worried a 315 was gonna take out oncoming traffic) so the front axle has pretty much been rebuilt.
It is better with the box tightened. Get ready wallet, this willl leave a bruise.