No Dash Indication When Alternator Fails???
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From: Phoenix
No Dash Indication When Alternator Fails???
2003 SD V10
I have been hearing a whirring sound coming from under the hood. No time to look at it. The past two times I tried to start it it ticked a couple of times before starting. I figured the battery was about to go bad. Last night I was at a drive through windoe and noticed my ABS light was on and none of the other gauges were registering. (gas, tach, eng temp, tranny temp)
The problem: NOT ONE INDICATION in the dash that I had an electrical problem.
Is this truck supposed to tell you when there is a catastrophic problem like NO CHARGING?
I have been hearing a whirring sound coming from under the hood. No time to look at it. The past two times I tried to start it it ticked a couple of times before starting. I figured the battery was about to go bad. Last night I was at a drive through windoe and noticed my ABS light was on and none of the other gauges were registering. (gas, tach, eng temp, tranny temp)
The problem: NOT ONE INDICATION in the dash that I had an electrical problem.
Is this truck supposed to tell you when there is a catastrophic problem like NO CHARGING?
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From: Virginia
Do you know it was not charging? The only way to tell is put a voltmeter on the battery with the truck running. It should be around 14 volts.
The dash indicator monitors the alternator only. I don't know if you have a voltmeter gauge in the dash, but that monitors the whole system. There are lots of other things that can happen, like loose or corroded connections, that will give you no indication.
Also, when you first start the truck, all the lights should come on for a bulb check. Make sure they are all working.
The dash indicator monitors the alternator only. I don't know if you have a voltmeter gauge in the dash, but that monitors the whole system. There are lots of other things that can happen, like loose or corroded connections, that will give you no indication.
Also, when you first start the truck, all the lights should come on for a bulb check. Make sure they are all working.
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From: Phoenix
I have no gauge so I am relying on an idiot light. I have not checked if one lights up at start up. How would coroded clamps affect charging? Could my alternator be outputing 14+ and the battery not be taking the charge? How come the engine stopped while sitting in Checkers parking lot idling?
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From: sunny fla sometimes windy
Idiot lights only on the v-10 I can't believe that!! That has got me all bent I would be adding in a full aftermarket gauge set oil,ampmeter,temp,even trans temp!! Double check all ground points on the engine and frame and use dielectric grease on them after youo clean them.
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From: sunny fla sometimes windy
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From: Virginia
Originally Posted by RagdollRacer
I have no gauge so I am relying on an idiot light. I have not checked if one lights up at start up. How would coroded clamps affect charging? Could my alternator be outputing 14+ and the battery not be taking the charge? How come the engine stopped while sitting in Checkers parking lot idling?
The rest of the elec system taps off this first circuit, to run the whole truck. This connection could be bad, and kill the whole truck. There are subsystems to this primary one, that could have a bad connection and kill the whole truck.
Your charging question is a good one, but it may not be the problem. Check the voltage on the battery, and if it's close to 14v, then we can move on to other things to check.
Lead Driver
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 9,303
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From: Lyndonville, Vermont
The light has to be in the circut to enable the alt to charge. If the bulb blows out the alt won't charge and you'll kill the battery in a while. Like was said above running 14-14.5 volts.
Dick
Dick
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From: Virginia
Ford usually puts a resistor around the bulb, so it will still charge with the bulb burnt out.
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