anything we can do about a/c?
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Joined: Jul 2002
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From: Long Island USA
Originally Posted by Netfly
big honking is that a Home Depot plumbing or auto store type?
Originally Posted by Netfly
I use to run a cable controlled one on an old charger, but it wasn't one made for the car. I think it fit something from the early 60's. I supplied a manual choke cable control from inside the cab and the mechanical valve worked well. I wish I knew what car it was from.
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Thanks krewat. I found one for a 66 chevy c20 that is close, but the control doesn't look like it will take a single cable easily.
http://www.partsamerica.com/productdetail.aspx?MfrCode=FAA&MfrPartNumber=74661 &PartType=394&PTSet=A
I'll keep looking.
http://www.partsamerica.com/productdetail.aspx?MfrCode=FAA&MfrPartNumber=74661 &PartType=394&PTSet=A
I'll keep looking.
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OK. The valve makes sense when you see it with a bracket.
http://www.bouchillonperformance.com/BPEheaterValve.asp
http://www.bouchillonperformance.com/BPEheaterValve.asp
Last edited by Netfly; Sep 25, 2007 at 01:02 AM.
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From: Long Island USA
Originally Posted by bookum1
I have a silly question, but does this work equally as well on GAS engines. I have a 01 f250 v10 and AC checks out fine, but not cold enough
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Joined: Feb 2006
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From: West Central Florida
Originally Posted by skyphix
Overcharging the AC system in cars can also cause warm air. It should be a specified poundage. I hope thats what you mean by "maxed out".
edit: I just pulled the trigger on the Dieselsite kit (see link, page 1). For $42 you get the complete kit with detailed instructions. No brainer in my book...
Last edited by Kevinpmac; Sep 25, 2007 at 04:17 PM.
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Joined: Mar 2001
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From: So Cal
That sounds like an idea. My 94 460 gasser puts so much heat thru the vents that it isn't worth using the vent position of the system unless it is cold outside. AC is cold but could be colder on really hot days.
Jim enderson
Jim enderson
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Senior User
Joined: Feb 2006
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From: West Central Florida
Installed the kit this morning and WOW, what a difference. I actually have A/C that blows cold in 90 degree Florida heat. Thanks for the info guys.
FYI- the white vacumn line was hard to find on my 01 Lariat. I swung the glove box door down to the extended position (squeeze sides) to see the vacumn line. I could then easily trace where it plugged into the little silver canister.
FYI- the white vacumn line was hard to find on my 01 Lariat. I swung the glove box door down to the extended position (squeeze sides) to see the vacumn line. I could then easily trace where it plugged into the little silver canister.
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Joined: Apr 2004
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From: In PA but work in NJ and
I had two mechanics tell me a/c was charged, then the idle was bouncing all over the palce and the compressor was cycling alot. Went to Advance and bought a can of the refill, it suck it in in 30 seconds! The cycling slowed down and the idle got better. Put two more cans in and it now is like an icechest, the idle is normal and the poor compressor sounds much happier..The disposable recharge cans come with a gauge and work ok.
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Joined: Sep 2007
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One other thing you guys can try if your truck is more than a few years old is cleaning your evaporator off. I read about this on another site and decided to try it. I had already done the heater core valve and was still not happy with my 99's a/c. If you remove the blower fan under the hood you can look down inside the a/c housing and see about 1/3 of your evaporator. If its like mine was it is covered in dust/dirt/hair etc. I took my water hose and cleaned it out for about ten min making sure only to flush alittle at a time so the water could drain off. its a really easy job and man o man did it make a diffrence. I used to barely be able to stay cool on max a/c fan #4 , now i usually run it on fan #1 and am freezing. This helped big time not only on the coolness of the air but also on my fan output too.
Senior User
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 192
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From: Florence,SC
<TABLE><TBODY><TR><TD vAlign=top width="100%">If anyone reading this thread would like to do the cheap, easy, manual cut off valve method, the NAPA part # for the valve is 660-1414, clamps part # is 505-1212. I spent a total of $14.77 + tax for the valve and two 5/8" stainless steel worm gear clamps. I installed it on my 2000 F250 4x4 7.3 powerstroke next to the oil filler cap. It worked great today with outside temp. at 105 and heat index of 115. For anyone who may not know which heater hose to install it in, it is the one that carries hot water into the heater core, it will be the one coming from the engine and going toward the firewall, not the one which connects to the water pump. I mounted mine at this location for very easy access by just reaching in over the passenger side fender. It took a total of five minutes to do. When installing make sure your clamps etc. are not touching any other metal so you won't have any rattles or abrasion.This is for the guys like myself who just want an inexpensive easy fix. Thanks to all on this thread!
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</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>
Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 7,191
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From: Blairsville,Ga
Originally Posted by Heavy Haulin
One other thing you guys can try if your truck is more than a few years old is cleaning your evaporator off. I read about this on another site and decided to try it. I had already done the heater core valve and was still not happy with my 99's a/c. If you remove the blower fan under the hood you can look down inside the a/c housing and see about 1/3 of your evaporator. If its like mine was it is covered in dust/dirt/hair etc. I took my water hose and cleaned it out for about ten min making sure only to flush alittle at a time so the water could drain off. its a really easy job and man o man did it make a diffrence. I used to barely be able to stay cool on max a/c fan #4 , now i usually run it on fan #1 and am freezing. This helped big time not only on the coolness of the air but also on my fan output too.
