i have an 07 f150 i was wanting to install a remote starter; but i have heard that they are unrealiable, and that if the remote start stops working than so does the key start, is this true? does Ford make a remote start system that just plugs into the truck? i dont really want some aftermarket thing that i have to splice into factory wires...

 

Even the Ford "authorized" remote start systems are spliced into the harness.

That's the first I've heard of them being unreliable. I suppose it depends upon what actually goes wrong w/ the remote start as to whether it knocks out the regular key start.

 

I installed one on my rig after I got her last March. As far as reliability, well, its directly proportional to the quality of install. Given the way the systems work I don't think they could ever disable the regular key start.

 

as bridge said.... they are only as good as the install..... that being said.... if you do it yourself, take your time and solder every connection and you will be fine. as for whether or not they could disable the key start... yes, it is possible. i have mine hooked up to a relay in the starter circuit to avoid accidental grinding of the starter, and also to help prevent anyone from starting it while i have the system locked.... knowing this, if that particular relay went bad, then yes it would prevent my key from working.... not a big deal though, it would be easy (for me, since i know where it is hidden) to bypass... but it all depends on how your system is wired in and programmed. all and all, i have had several systems on several vehicles, and i have installed all of them... the only one i can say that ever failed was a bulldog starter. otherwise they are well worth the money IMO. my favorite is crimestopper "cool start" units.

 

I have had a viper system for several years with no problems. It was in my 2000 expedition. Today I am picking up my new 2007 F150. The remote start was removed from the expedition and will be reinstalled in the F-150. Ford also has a remote start that they will sell you just like the aftermarket units. According to the dealership there are no warranty conflicts with the viper unit. Bottom line, remote starts are reliable and available from Ford or the aftermarket. Mighty nice on a cold Illinois morning.
Alexrose

 

Yes for has two different ty one has one button on the tob and the other one replace you door loock thob and it is all in one. Again it is how it is installed if they do like my was from the ford dealer it did not work after a day but a wire was not soilderd. Yes even the ford must be spliced into the wiring harness.

David

 

I had the Crimestopper unit installed in April at the dealer. It was installed by a guy who installs all of their remote starters and aftermarket alarms. Works like a champ! I believe Crimestopper has their own website.

 

actually I install remote starts...and any of the aftermarket remote starts will work...there's 2 ways to get around the transponder by-pass in the key...electronic means....or the best way is the old fashoined way (IMHO) and just dremmel the transponder out... and place the transponder on the reciever ring where it starts 5-out of 5 times...

I have photos of this process on a 2005 f-150 here :

http://supercell.org/forum/viewtopic.php?p=51#51

a picture of what the electronic by-pass looks like :

http://supercell.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=38

I just started documenting my work so feel free to look for your vehicle...if it isn't there it will be

btw 3m t-taps and male spade connectors are the best bet on the hookup...and a good job means you will see no wires (wires ties are used)...nothing is loose and you barely know someones been in your vehicle !

 

i have to disagree with most of this...... the best way is not to dremel the transponder out of the key and place it by the receiver ring.... if you did this, then any key could work.... even for a thief !!!! there are transponder bypass unite out there that program just like a spare key, and then you are all set. they are only like 25.00, so its worth it IMO.

as for making the connections..... if you use those POS 3m t-taps, then you will regret it later down the road when they start to cause malfunctions by vibrating and loosening up.... take your time the first time, and solder and heat shrink EVERY connection, and you will not have to do it a second time.

just my .02, but to each his own.

 

Agreed.

 

lol !

well I have been at this for 23 years and have not regreted it once !

seriously solder weakens the copper in the application process and goes cold (that means bad connection) eventually...

I'd probably say to you that your idea is better than mine if you could name one factory connection in the steering column that is made with solder...

( I won't hold my breath waiting)

all connection at the column are made by plugs that are NO different than 3m t-taps.

(NOTE: t-taps are NOT scotch locks)

regarding the "key" you have to be joking...I don't know how many of my customers are glad to spend 80.00 for a key to be made...it's freakin riddiculous !

and the aftermarket transponder by-pass kits like design-tech intl' require YOU to place a 80.00 key inside the by-pass for it to work...which leaves a key in the vehicle that a thief can just stick in and go...BAD IDEA !!!!!!!!!

after the transponder is removed keys can be made for about a buck 39 at ace hardware...and you don't have to wait half a day for a overworked ford mechanic to code one for you.

it's a win win...

 

I was an installer for a number of years. I am not sure how many customers would be ok with me placing their transponder chip at the cylinder so any cut key will work. I realize that there is a key placed in the box, but one of 2 things can be done. It can and should be hid well, or you can file down the cut part of the key so that if someone was to break in they still wouldnt be able to grab the key and go. Also, if you buy a blank key, get it cut, a lot of them you can program yourself. I spent $12 on my chipped key, got it cut for cheap, and it works perfectly. Programmed it myself. In essence the whole chip idea, there is no getting around it. If the theif wants your vehicle he will get it, plain and simple.

As for soldering...I soldered every connection and never had 1 issue due to cold solder joint.. It gives me piece of mind versus a "mechanical (t-tap)" connection. I have seen dealer added alarms soldered in and also seen them t-tap'd in. To each their own.

Each installer has his own way and there is no "correct" way. I would just be leary of the whole transponder idea...seems to have more issues than the bypass box. In my opinion.

 

ohhh kaaayyyyy... im not trying to stir the pot, but maybe this will be better info for all...... maybe you just have not seen the new style transponder bypasses, but they DO NOT require a key to be placed inside... which is really neat. it will have a few wires in it which splice into the factory transponder module, then it gets programmed just like a spare key would be.... then the unit retains the transponder code, and makes the pcm think a programmed key has been installed.... kinda cool. here is a link to show you one....

http://www.blogskinny.com/index.cfm?...-Bypass-Module

 

I am not sure how many customers would be ok with me placing their transponder chip at the cylinder so any cut key will work.

my experience most people absolutely hate the expensive keys...big families especially...oil field folks (fleet)..etc....

I spent $12 on my chipped key

where ?

Mainly it all comes down to practicallity...I remember when ford and gm for that matter was using "code alarm" as their "factory alarm system"...what a joke...most of the one's I saw were soldered in and they were still junk...the company I worked for at the time was owned by the people who owned fred jones ford...and we removed the code alarms and replaced they with prestige alarms...all in all it does come back to the installer that we can agree on...but the electronic by-pass' have many issues namely a lot of them lose programming if the battery goes dead...common problem and a big one regarding electronic bypass' IMHO

oh yeah...one thing I forgot to mention is ford used to have a slot in the top of the key to remove the chip...wonder why they got rid of that ?

grins

 

thanks for the effort but with all due repsect there matt I DO NOT BUY FROM CLEARINGHOUSES !

all my bypass equip comes from omega which a IB-PKF3 bypass @ my cost is 32.75...naturally I can't sell it for that so the customer is looking at 49.99 plus 199.99 for the auto page 600 remote start...

my customers get the choice and I DO STOCK the IB-PKF3 bypass units but most people given the option go with the key cut...