Buildup beyond intake/carb
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Junior User
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 60
Likes: 0
Buildup beyond intake/carb
Decided ot get an Edelbrock Performer intake, and a 600cfm edel carb. On a Stock 352, researching headers as we speak. Want to do an MSD ignition, also, but need recomendation for distributor. Lokked at the MSD billet cause it would plug right up to a 6 series box and coil, but it's quite pricey. What else makes good power, i've though cam,and don't really know what else. need all sugestions
Thanks
Nate
Thanks
Nate
Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 6,624
Likes: 8
From: Missouri
Buildup beyond intake/carb
Unless you are going to be turning some major RPMs and making serious HP you would be just as well off going to autozone and buying a rebuilt dizzy for $35 and putting the pertronix system in it. It replaces your points for about 75 bucks. You can still use the 6AL box but I don't know if it is going to be worth the 175 bucks.
Senior User
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 112
Likes: 0
From: aubrey usa
Buildup beyond intake/carb
I agree with Rat. I even race with the pertronix system. I turn 6000 to 6500 rpms. as far as cams go you really need to match intake, carb,and cam with what you intend to do with the truck. A lot of people make the mistake of over camming. Do your home work and get a set up that will match your needs. Hope this helps
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Junior User
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 60
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Buildup beyond intake/carb
[updated:LAST EDITED ON 21-May-02 AT 09:32 PM (EST)]Which petronix should i get the standard or the "2" the high performance one? And how powerful is a good coil but not too hot?
Thanks
Nate
Thanks
Nate
Cargo Master
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 2,281
Likes: 18
From: Northern California
Buildup beyond intake/carb
Most here are running the old standard version of the Pertronix and most everyone has had excellent results with them. Pertronix also makes a matching coil for about $30. With the matching coil, you can bypass your stock resistor wire under the dash and put the full 12volts to the coil.
I got the Pertronix and coil and didn't bypass the resistor wire, now I did finally bypass it and now I can start easier with a 45 gap where as before it wouldn't start well unless the gap was 35.
I got the Pertronix and coil and didn't bypass the resistor wire, now I did finally bypass it and now I can start easier with a 45 gap where as before it wouldn't start well unless the gap was 35.
Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 6,624
Likes: 8
From: Missouri
Buildup beyond intake/carb
I wonder if my accel is supposed to be run with or without the resistor?
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Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 6,624
Likes: 8
From: Missouri
Buildup beyond intake/carb
I just read on their site that it is supposed to be removed. Where is the little bugger? I thought I was getting weak spark at idle.
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Senior User
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 200
Likes: 0
From: Virginia
Buildup beyond intake/carb
The balast resistor is not really a resistor, but a resistance wire. In my '74 F-100 it is a pink wire and is spliced in somewhere just after the ignition switch (though I couldn't find the beginning splice)and goes to a connector along with the wire from the starter solenoid (that supplies +12v at start). Coming out of the connector is (if I remember this correctly) a green/red trace wire that goes to the coil. As I remember, the pink wire looked brown from age and dirt, but it is pink where it is covered by the wire loom.
There is supposed to be a stud on the back side of the firewall (this from the CD manual) that is intended to ease the replacement of the ballast wire (they do go bad over time), but I couldn't find it. I just spliced into the green/red (or was it red/green) wire from the ignition (close to the switch) to the new coil and pertronix module.
The wiring diagrams on the CD and in the Haynes manual were all difficult to read because they cover both points and electronic ignitions (for '74 at least) and cover several pages of the diagram. If you'd like I can try to find my notes and e-mail them to you.
Mark
There is supposed to be a stud on the back side of the firewall (this from the CD manual) that is intended to ease the replacement of the ballast wire (they do go bad over time), but I couldn't find it. I just spliced into the green/red (or was it red/green) wire from the ignition (close to the switch) to the new coil and pertronix module.
The wiring diagrams on the CD and in the Haynes manual were all difficult to read because they cover both points and electronic ignitions (for '74 at least) and cover several pages of the diagram. If you'd like I can try to find my notes and e-mail them to you.
Mark
Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 6,175
Likes: 21
From: Texas
Buildup beyond intake/carb
[updated:LAST EDITED ON 26-May-02 AT 04:28 PM (EST)]Rat,
I believe that there was actually a ceramic resistor on my 69. It was attached to the driver side valve cover. It is about 3" long and 3/8" across, square end. I don't think it get's used with aftermatket ignitions and coils.
I believe that there was actually a ceramic resistor on my 69. It was attached to the driver side valve cover. It is about 3" long and 3/8" across, square end. I don't think it get's used with aftermatket ignitions and coils.
