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Im getting ready to repaint a truck for a friend and i have a few ?'s. At this moment it is yellow. The plan is to paint it red. It also has a few dents here and there that i have filled and what not. I replaced the front quarter panels and they are a different color. So should i just sand the truck down and primer the whole thing. Or should just wet sand it with 400 and paint over it?...thanks
Red is a semi-translucent color in that if the color underneath is not consistently the same throughout the vehicle, it will show through. If you're going with a bright red, use a white sealer for some extra kick:
[QUOTE=MP&C]Red is a semi-translucent color in that if the color underneath is not consistently the same throughout the vehicle, it will show through. If you're going with a bright red, use a white sealer for some extra kick:
Red is a semi-translucent color in that if the color underneath is not consistently the same throughout the vehicle, it will show through. If you're going with a bright red, use a white sealer for some extra kick:
What he said!
Solid red ?...
Since when?
My guess is you guys have never blended a panel......
Last edited by Action4478; Sep 19, 2007 at 06:12 PM.
I'd venture to say he'd have much better results starting with a like color primer/sealer over everything. For a repair, perhaps a blend would be appropriate. In this case, I wouldn't say so. To expect to spray directly over yellow, primer, and who knows what color on the front fenders, good luck with blending covering everything.
I'd venture to say he'd have much better results starting with a like color primer/sealer over everything. For a repair, perhaps a blend would be appropriate. In this case, I wouldn't say so. To expect to spray directly over yellow, primer, and who knows what color on the front fenders, good luck with blending covering everything.
OK... A prime coat over the new fenders may not be a bad idea because you may not know the history of the finish,, But absolutely not nessesary to prime the entire vehicle. All colors are opaque, the only ones that are not are mid coats on tri coat colors...
Clean & sand it properly, & paint it.If the vehicle has something like a laquer finish or has been refinished may be a good idea to seal it,, Sealer is just one more layer that will shrink over time, and will be more work and more money,,
I wasn't suggesting a blend in this case, he said he was painting the entire vehicle...
But what do I know ,I've only been doing this for 36 years,,,,
Last edited by Action4478; Sep 20, 2007 at 07:11 PM.
But what do I know ,I've only been doing this for 36 years..
Rick, no disrespect to you or your abilities. I'd like someone to teach me a thing or two about blending, most of my work is complete repaints from a bare finish, so I don't do much blending at all. That said, He did indicate he was spraying the entire vehicle, and I gave him my opinion based on that and what I considered would give him the best results.
All colors are opaque, the only ones that are not are mid coats on tri coat colors...
I have to disagree with this. Some colors are awefull transparent, and even have warnings on the mixing formula about being a poor coverer. Even more so with the cheaper lines, you can have a bunch of coats over a primer spot to get the same where the paint is over a different color. The formula may have a lot of toners in it instead of tints also making it poorer covering. May make for a brilliant color that is popular, but tough to get total coverage, and hope you have a close ground coat on your repair area or the whole thing sealed. Dip your paint stick in your mixed color, can you see the paint stick through on the edges? You may just have something that isn't going to cover well.
I sprayed one of my beaters with a quasar blue in omni, and there was a note on that, not a good coverer and they weren't lying. Good thing it was a complete and had it all one color. The formula may have a lot of toners in it instead of tints also making it poor covering. May make for a brilliant color that is popular, but tough to get total coverage, and hope you have a close ground coat on your repair area or the whole thing sealed. Its not only the cheap lines either that are poor covering, a deltron green I sprayed was a beoch, and I made the mistake not sealing, leaving primer spots and original color. Another one was years ago spray laser red tri stage. The bodyshop manager told me not to seal, leave the buff colored primer spots. I was in that dang booth forever spraying trying to get the red base to cover that yellow, and I aint talking about the tinted clear midcoat which is meant to be transparent. Reds seem to be one of the more transparent tints, and its also among the priciest for the paint companys to buy for a good one, so maybe they skimp on the tint load as well, don't know. Single stages seem to be a little better for some reason on coverage, and don't remember years ago there being as much issues with coverage, maybe they have cheaped up since the early 90's.
My opinion if painting the whole thing, save yourself potential grief if it happens to not be a great covereing color, either prime and sand the whole thing or spray a sealer, close in shade to what the manufacture recommends if possible (Like dupont lists a value shade number on the formula, others lines often have similar. That way if you get a poor coverer, even though you don't haven't sprayed to actual total coveage to hiding, it will still look the same on won't be using a ton of paint cause you can still see your primer areas through. If doing a blend, well then you can't really seal the whole panel, cause you want some original color there, but should still try to use a primer that will best cover and then when getting coverage, blend out into the original color.
I have to disagree with this. Some colors are awefull transparent, and even have warnings on the mixing formula about being a poor coverer
That is true ,however,the fact remains that the paint is opaque...
More coats to hide on some colors is normal, but , they will cover...
Op said they were painting red,,,If it is a solid ,as I suspected , was the reason for my post..
I have painted almost every brand available, & if you cheap out & get off brand or cheaper lines , you will encounter coverage problems more often than not..Some of them look reducd before you reduce them...
PPG makes the omni brand for mostly non proffesionals in my opinion...I have sprayed it enough that I won't do it again,,
I'm to old to keep walking around a veh for that long....
Ohh I agree, omni is junk. I have sprayed quite a bit of it. A shop I worked in many years ago used it on the used car rebuilders they did, but come to the conclusion there are better budget lines out there then omni in relatively the same price range( utech, pro-spray).
It would be nice to use nothing but the top lines all the time, but fact is with costs today, many people are going to use cheaper lines depending on situation. If you can allow longer times, are up to using something less user friendly, willing to give up some in longevity, and aren't concerned about good color match, you can spray quite a bit of a cheaper line before you hit equal the cost of a better base, normally 3 times as much. A better line your not guaranteed good coverage, but its more likely.
Not knowing what he will end up using (The trend has been cheap, just have to look at all the threads about crappy rustoleum and lacquer threads to see how cheap many are willing to go), I'd rather give the advice to seal a complete not knowing how his coverage and if hes picking up deltron or using a cheap kirker kit.
Why take a chance, IMO, if a complete just seal it. I like epoxy. Not only just as a safe guard between old and new finish, but so your not dinking around spray a ton of color if it has coverage issues. Sealer is cheap compared to color, specially red, and depending on what you painting over, epoxy based will add a little bit of durability, hold out and longevity over painting over a 2k urethane, and hopefully nobody is still using lacquer primer.