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Novice 'do it myselfer'-sanded dash then discovered the windshield channel needs to repaired. I took angle grinder and remove rust inside channel then tried using the 'metal to metal' patch and did not care for it at all. Anyhow, looks like it may take 2-3 days to make repairs, now that dash is down to bare metal, can i use a metal etch as a temp fix until able to prime. Intend going back over the window channel remove the 'metal to metal' patch and using the 'Evercoat Extreme' , does'nt need much, sand channel and dash, then prime. Any suggestions, or advice otherwise would be appreciated.
dave
Last edited by daveengelson; Sep 17, 2007 at 06:21 PM.
Never sand down to bare metal unless you have to. I try to avoid getting down to the bare metal, one you do it starts rusting and you need to shoot an epoxy primer to seal it back up. Metal prep is to etch the bare metal to promote better adhesion. Bare metal starts rusting soon as its exposed. So since you are going to be spreading this out, if for a day or so I use oil (syn repels water)) to prevent rust. But then you must throughly degrease before you can paint. If you going to use metal prep to prepare the metal, go ahead and shoot some epoxy primmer. You will have to scuff it if you don't paint with in 5-7 days, but it seals up the surface so you get no more rust. The 2K primers are not design for long time exposure, but will seal it if you do not start sanding on it.
Others who do this all the time may have a better solution. I'm just passing own what I have learned while working on my 68.
In a holding pattern for next couple of days with the threat of rain. In meantime, will finish sanding dash and windshield channel and hopefully shoot w/epoxy Friday. If unable to prime by friday i will use the oil as suggested, fortunately it's just the dash. Project started out as a rust bucket and intended to take a cutting torch to it, decided otherwise and probably live to regret it. Thanks for the input.
My dash has a coat of primmer on it right now. I had to leave town for 2 weeks, back for 3 days before I leave again. I'm hoping for cooler temps when I start back in. I sanded off most of the orange peal, then shot some 2K primmer. Then sanded most of it all off, then used some scratch/dent putty to fill in the imperfections. My next coat of primmer should do it so I can shoot color.
Good luck it can be a timely project. Just take the time to do it right, prep is 90% of the work. It helps if you have a paint gun that can shoot in any position for those hard to reach areas.
Purchase the 'ez liner' supposedly to allow gun to be sprayed in any position. Comes with various adapters so fits most brands. Not sure if used the wrong adapter but certainly made a mess, i'll have to try again. Presenting issue w/ the project is getting a coat of expoxy, hopefully it will get me thru the winter. Meantime will attempt to weld in floor pans.
2 coats of epoxy primmer will last till it's cut, many many years. It's whats used on most body parts that are not painted and you do not want rust on. But you must scuff according to mfg recommendations to get any thing to bond to it. I will be shooting a flat/simi black over mine. And areas that I need to paint I will shoot a 2K primer over the epoxy so I have a base that will accept paint. My epoxy is a different color than my 2K primer.
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